This year marks a major milestone
for Tring brewery as it was 25 years ago when Andrew Jackson joined the brewery
where he relaunched their portfolio and introduced seven new ales include three
core range products and four seasonals, one of these included Santa’s Little
Helper (4.8%) which brought a momentous year to an end. Described as a
warming winter ale that would even warm the heart of old Scrooge, it was a
scrummy mixture of rich roasted malts and spicy hop-forward bitterness. For
many years it was only available on draught, however in 2021 it was sold in
bottle for the first time, expanding its popularity further. A quarter a
century ago, the market for Christmas ales was increasingly becoming saturated
as brewers for innovative ways to market their beers over the Christmas period
in a steadily competitive market for the real ale industry. Many of these beers
survive to this day, although others have fallen by the wayside along with
their breweries. From looking at various clippings (in CAMRA branch magazines),
festival records and the 2001 Good Pub Guide, there were at least 150 Christmas
themed beers treading the boards in the year 2000. Long-standing family run
breweries like Ridley’s which had been in business since 1842 filled the market
with the likes of Santa’s Secret (4.8%) and Winter Winner (4.8%),
while Redruth, one of Cornwall’s oldest breweries established in the town of
its namesake in 1792 put out the appropriately named Rudolph the Redruth
Brain Beer (5.5%). Others were newer to the scene, like Ruddy Rudolph
(4.5%) – Plassey, famed for being Wales oldest microbrewery (founded in
1985), Lords-a-Leaping (4.5%) – Stanway, developed at the Stanway House
estate, it was noteworthy for being one of two log-powered breweries in the
country at the time. There was Christmas Cheer (4.5%), a Xmas themed
release by Rectory, which was founded in 1995 by Rev. Godfrey Broster after
listening to suggestions from his parishioners to raise money for his churches.
Pun-filled titles were all the rage, like Mincepired (5.8%) – Lichfield,
That Will Be the Sleigh (6.7%) – Brynceleyn, Rudolph's Ruin (5.4%) - Rudgate, Santa’s
Steaming Ale (5.5%) – Cottage, Rudolph's Rocket Fuel (7.3%) - Pictish, Holly Hops (5%) – Smiles, Sanity Clause (4.1%) - Rockingham and Donner & Blitzed (5.1%) - Maypole and Funky Figgy Pudding (4.2%) – Kitchen, to name a few.
Many of these names are
unfamiliar to modern eyes since a number of these beers have long been
discontinued as the breweries that produced them were closed down. For many
years Christmas Cracker (6%) – Wood’s, was a prominent fixture on the
scene, described as dark, strong and moreish, the beer was dark ruby in colour
with aromas of spices and notes of port wine and burnt toast filling the palate
followed by a lingering sweetness; yet its loss was deeply felt when the
brewery closed in 2022 following a slump in sales during the pandemic. Another
casualty to the ravages of time was Red Nose Reinbeer (5%), a gold medal
winner, the title was a wry take on the song ‘Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer’ by
Gene Autry. It was a richly flavoured beer brewed with Pale, Crystal and
Chocolate malt with Goldings, Fuggles and Northdown hops, that gave it distinct
chocolatey nutty flavours. The brewery closed down in 2021, and the brewing site
and brands were sold to Nuttycombe Brewery which continued production until its
own closure last April. The likes of Wassail (6%) – Ballards, was
an early collaboration between English Heritage and the brewing industry. Described
on its labels as a “full bodied fruity beer with an underlying hoppiness”.
CAMRA errenously claimed its was a barley wine, but its characteristics were
closer to a winter warmer. Simon Martin (of Real Ale Craft Beer fame) once
stated “it’s nice and creamy, it
leaves a creamy lacing on the inside of your mouth, but then there’s really
nice bittering hops that creep up on the back end.” With
hints of sherry, mature fruit and oak aromas, this beer continued to be a
seasonal presence until the brewery’s closure in 2018. Out of all the
discontinued examples out there, Festivity (5%) – Bath Ales was one of
the most prominent. Often described as a rum flavoured Porter mingling with
notes of coffee and vanilla, it was crafted in the style of an old-school style
seasonal Porter, made with Maris Otter barley and roasted chocolate malt,
together with Challenger and Bramling Cross hops from Kent. First produced in
1999 initially as a one-off release, its ensuing popularity led the brewery to
reissue it the following year, ramping up production to six-twelve-barrel brews
distributed to the brewery’s estate of six pubs. They subsequently produced a
bottle version but due to capacity constraints, it was contract brewed at the
likes of Hopback, Brakspear and then Hepworth’s. News of its popularity spread,
it eventually won several gongs at the Champion Winter Beer of Britain including Supreme Winter Beer of Britain – Silver
(2002/4), Old Ales – Gold (2002/5), Stout & Porter – Bronze (2006). The
brewery was later acquired by St. Austell in 2016,
and the brewing site at Warmley subsequently closed, along with most of their
beers.
There are some breweries out there still in business that have discontinued their seasonal Christmas ales. At the turn of the century, Hogs Back (then only eight years old) was promoting Santa’s Wobble (7.5%). A rich-ruby brown ale made with English hops, the beer writer Des de Moor described in 2001 as having a subtle complexity, noting “the palate is very full and malty, smooth and rich and fruity rather than nutty, with traces of brazils and marzipan.” Initially a draught only release, it was later released in bottle and following its ensuing popularity, the brewery later brought out a Summer version called Wobble (7.5%) and a few bottle-only variants. In 2000, Hogs Back were also retailing the relatively sessionable Advent Ale (4.4%), a chestnut-coloured concoction with notes of liquorice and roasted malt with a fruity aroma. While the brewery continues to produce and retail this beer on an annual basis, Santa’s Wobble (7.5%) is alas no more, yet this ghost of Christmas past still haunts the brewery. Meanwhile, in 2000 Mauldons brewery in Sudbury was taken over by husband-and-wife team Steve and Alison Sims, they named a number of their beers after characters from Dickens books due to the author’s connection with the town. One of these that debuted around this time was Bah Humbug (4.9%) in reference to Scrooge’s iconic catchphrase in ‘A Christmas Carol’. Brewed with East Anglian malt, it was a tawny-red bitter with prominent fruit and malt aromas. By 2005, bottle fermented versions of the product were retailed as branches of Asda and Waitrose across the region, drastically increasing the sales of the product, it was soon available across the country. Alas the beer was discontinued in 2019, and succeeded by the similarly named Scrooges Revenge (4.9%) the following year. In neighbouring Cambridgeshire, for many years Elgood’s of Wisbech produced Wenceslas Winter Warmer (7.5%) – Elgood’s, on the strong side for a winter warmer, it had a strong malt element and a pepper hoppy edge, and during the early 2000’s it was a multiple award winner, scooping up gongs including including Bronze - Cambridge Winter C.A.M.R.A. 2003, Silver - Cambridge Winter C.A.M.R.A. 2002 and Silver - Norwich C.A.M.R.A. 2000. Moreover, Noel’s Ale (5.5%) – Arkell’s, was already a firm fixture at the brewery as the 21st century dawned, it was first launched in 1987, named after the present chairman’s (James Arkell) grandfather Sir Thomas Noel Arkell who was born on Christmas Day. At the time it was their strongest beer, although light in colour it was deceptively strong on the backend with a spicy cedar like flavour appropriate for Winter days, as Arkell once stated “what’s surprising about this beer when you drink it is that the alcohol doesn’t show out and feel like a strong beer, it feels like an easy drinking session beer that will be more like 4%.” Its strength was reduced overtime to 5% and it was discontinued in 2015; a new Winter seasonal Sir Noel (5%) followed in its wake. Meanwhile, the likes of Wye Valley was once well-known for its wide range of innovative beers under its Dorothy Goodbody brand launched in 1985, the image of a voluptuous blonde soon became an iconic trademark for the brewery, pouting away through its pump clips. The Dorothy Goodbody series was inspired by WW2 pinups, allegedly as Brian Viner claims “Dorothy was the strikingly attractive daughter of a local hop farmer, Sam Goodbody, and her hourglass figure is immortalised on tens of thousands of bottles.” In 1998, the brewery released Dorothy Goodbody’s Christmas Ale (6%), a seasonal strong ale with pronounced malty, toffee and fruit notes washed down with a lacing of peppery hops. Six different malts were used in the brew to help give its distinct flavour profile. Roger Protz once described it as a strong ruby ale, especially good with Christmas pudding. For many years it was only available on draught until a bottle version appeared in 2009, after the brewery installed a bottling line. Subsequently they also produced other Christmas beers the more sessionable Christmas Cracker Ale (4.7%) and Santa Special (4.2%) through the range. The Dororthy Goodbody series was not without controversy, with some arguing the image was sexually suggestive and demeaning. In 2008 the brewery was hauled to the Independent Complaints Panel when Alcohol Concern to the Portman Group, the brewing industry watchdog raised a complaint against them. Although the brewery was later cleared, the writing was on the wall and the series was later retired.
While a number of Christmas beers that were around at the turn of the century have fallen by the wayside, a good proportion have fortunately survived. In November 2000, J.W. Lees debuted Plum Pudding (5%) to the masses. Often described as Christmas in glass, it’s a rich dark beer brewed with plums. Upon its launch, Opening Times (the branch magazine for Stockport and South Manchester CAMRA) described it as “a 5% dark brown beer with a distinctive but indefinable fruitiness about it. lt is in many ways reminiscent of a Belgian beer and very palatable.” Initially a one-off special, it has returned as a Winter seasonal special yearly from 2002 onwards. Over time the beer has become somewhat of an institution, one of the best-known Christmas beers in northern England, such is its reputation that every year on the last Friday in November, the brewery officially launches the beer on Plum Pudding Day, a Christmas celebration that takes places across J.W. Lees’ pubs that marks the start of the festive season. By the time the new century dawned, Christmas Ale (7.5%) – Harvey’s, was already firmly established, having first appeared as far back as 1972. A barley wine deep red in colour, awash with vinous fruits, and notes of caramel, raisins, plums, figs, spices and brandy, offset with a hoppy bitterness and alcoholic warmth. A true winter warmer of the old school, it has been often described as a liquid Christmas pudding, and despite its ABV reducing from 8.1% at the turn of the century, it has remained a firm favourite. Since 1992, it has won 34 awards including Europe’s Best Barley Wine (World Beer Awards 2010), 7.5% and over – Gold (British Bottlers Institute 2014/ 23), UK Brewer of the Year – Gold (International Beer Challenge 2021), UK Barley Wine: Gold (World Beer Awards 2018), 3 Star Beer (CAMRA Beer Awards 2016), to name a few, making it the most decorated Christmas beer in history. The beer continues to be a focal point of the brewery’s range, though generally sold in bottle, it is sold in cask at Harvey’s pubs where it matured for 11 months before stillage. Another beer with a long pedigree stretching back before 2000 is Twelve Days (5.5%) – Hook Norton, while most Christmas beers tend to fall under the Winter warmer category, this one bucks the trend, a strong festive porter with a malty palate and spiced overtones, its name was a reference to the song The Twelve Days of Christmas, the pump clip also features the likeliness of a partridge in a pear tree, which features in the song. First released in 1992, it has been a yearly fixture ever since, and has gradually become one of the brewery’s most vaulted products, winning a number of awards including World Beer Awards 2015 – United Kingdom’s Best Strong Dark Beer, and International Beer Challenge 2009 – Gold Medal. It has one silver medals at the International Beer Challenge in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2016 and 2017. It recently gained Bronze in 2024, and in August it gained a diploma award at the British Bottlers Institute. Tim Hampson listed this beer as one of his ten favourite Christmas beers in article that appeared in Telegraph in 2015, stating “this beer sparkles in the glass and on the tongue – rich fruity notes of cherry and dates parry with nut brown, caramel flavours, but nothing is overpowering.” Meanwhile over in Brill, deep in the wilds of Buckinghamshire, Vale brewery has been producing Good King Senseless (5.2%) for 28 years, first appearing in 1997 under their Hadda brand. The title was a wry take on the carol ‘Good King Wenceslas’, often described as a beer for dark wintery nights, it was generously layered with quorum of malts (Pale Planet, Munich, Crystal, Roasted Barley) and hops (Fuggles, Mount Hood, Pulawski) that help give its characterful flavour profile. It soon became a seasonal release for the brewery, and by 2000, they cashed in on its fame by giving away commemorative t-shirts reading “It’s Sensless”, which were sold free for every case of bottles sold. The beer continues to be an annual fixture even-though its name has been shortened to ‘Good King’, and was later joined by another Xmas seasonal Santa’s Ale (4.1%) in 2022. Although most of these Christmas beers are well known by real ale enthusiasts, their coverage is generally limited to their local regions and are generally unheard of by the wider population. However, there are examples out there that challenge this trend, Hardy & Hansons Rocking Rudolph (4.2%) has been brewed by Greene King since it took over the former Kimberley brewery and its estate in 2006. A ruby red concoction made from a trio of British hops including First Gold, Pilgrim & Goldings, its ABV had reduced from a height of 5% over the years, making it virtually a shadow of its former self. However, according to Greene King, the beer has held the No.1 spot for sales of Christmas beers in the past nine years, and is sold across supermarkets across the country, and in the spirit of goodwill since 2012, with every pint sold, 5p goes to MacMillian Cancer Support, in 2023, £36,000 was raised for the charity. A close competitor to its crown is Rosey Nosey (4.2%) – Bateman’s, which debuted in 1998 and was relatively new on the scene by the turn of the century. A full-bodied dark-amber beer, a spicy aromas bursts through the notes of caramel and fruity sultana flavours, the brew is a glorious combination of pale, crystal and chocolate malts accompanied with Goldings and Challenger hops. Initially a one-off brew, the beer was an instant hit and soon casks and bottles of the beer were distributed across the country. It has become of the country’s most popular Christmas beers; it is one of the brewery’s highest selling products, sales have grown 22% every year. In 2012 alone, sales grew by 13% with orders from Supermarkets rising by 50%. It is not surprising that it was rated no.2 on the best Christmas ales of 2013 by the Independent. The beer’s popularity is synonymous of the longevity and demand for many the UK’s long standing beers which have been around since the turn o the century.
Through glancing at the extensive list of Christmas beers that were around in 2000, the proliferation of examples by the time was due to the increasing clamour for breweries to market their winter warmers as Christmas Ales during the 80s and 90s in the wake of the real ale revival. Boak and Bailey also state the gradual demand for guest ales and seasonal specials was also an important contributing factor towards the surge in Christmas themed ales. At least 30 beers that were around during the 1st Christmas of the 20th century continue to the produce and thrive to this day, incredibly many of these examples were relatively new on the scene at the time and were on the brink of success. A slew of examples have scooped a number of awards including Christmas Ale (7.5%) – Harvey’s, Old Scrooge (6.5%) – Three Tuns, Twelve Days (5.5%) – Hook Norton, and Snowflake (8%) – Sarah Hughes, which recently gained a number of awards including Gold – Supreme Winter Beer of Britain 2024, Silver – Supreme Winter Beer of Britain 2025, Gold – Champion Winter Beer of Britain - Barley Wines (2024/5), and earlier this summer at GBBF 2025, it was awarded 2nd place in the Supreme Beer of Britain category, an incredible achievement for a Christmas theme beer. While most of these extant examples have become regional institutions in their own locality like Plum Pudding (5%) – J.W. Lees in Greater Manchester and Santa’s Little Helper (4.8%) – Tring in Hertfordshire respectively, some have crossed the rubicon and well known nationwide like Rosey Nosey (4.2%) – Bateman’s and Hardy & Hansons Rocking Rudolph (4.2%) – Greene King, thanks largely to a well-oiled distribution strategy that enables bottles of the beer to be retailed at a vast number of supermarkets. While there have been many success stories, the vast majority of Christmas beers that were around in 200 have since been discontinued, while in some case breweries (still in business) have dropped these beers from their ranges like Elgood’s or Hog’s Back for instance. In many instances, the sudden cessation of these products is usually down to closure, we can see this with the likes of Christmas Cracker (6%) – Wood’s, Red Nose Reinbeer (5%) – Cotleigh, Wassail (6%) – Ballards and Festivity (5%) – Bath Ales for instance, although these were highly commended and successful beers back in the day, due to the combination of closures or business takeovers, these brews have ceased to be. This is sobering reflection of the cutthroat atmosphere of the brewery industry, all breweries great or small are not immune from the threats of closure. In all, the cross section of Christmas beers that were available in 2000 present a fascinating snapshot of the state of the industry at the time, where regional independent breweries still took the reins, while microbreweries were still a relatively novel innovation and craft brewing was still a pipe dream. Over the past 25 years, Christmas beers have substantially increased in proliferation as the industry becomes more congested, yet for the slew of examples that stood the test of time, they provide a window into the past of what was then, and provide a legacy of success.
References
