On a oppresively and unseaonably hot afternoon in late May, myself and a friend headed down to the Dulwich Beer Festival, now in its 3rd year it is one of the newest festivals on the scene, first established by the good folk of South East London CAMRA in 2024. Each year since its inception they have held the festival at the Dulwich Hamlet FC stadium on Champion Hill which has been going strong in various guises since 1912. The festival has gradually increased in size over the years, with now over 50 cask ales available, along with the obligatory cider and perry bar, and the curious inclusion of a mead stall. Many of the beers at the festival were locally sourced from London breweries, which is hardly suprising as the likes of Portobello and Southwark breweries are the main sponsors. We arrived shortly after 1:30pm, and the venue was abuzz with activity, filled to the rafters with punters mingling in every corner. It was the final day of the three day festival, yet the organisers were struggling to cope with demand, and there was less than 20 cask ales left, even at this stage in the day. Whilst I browsed through the brochure, I disovered to my surprise that the organisers managed to acquire some additional beers not mentioned in the catalogue, and unfortunately they were not able to update the printed brochures in time. Although this instance frequently occurs in beer festivals up and down the land, the barman serving me could have been a little less brusque when informing me about the late changes to the program.
For my first libation of the day, I went for some Harcourt Red (4.8%) a red ale from Brockley Brewery, which is incredibly just over 3 miles from the venue. It was distinctly fruity yet equally bittersweet, with bags of roasted malt suggesting a rich and varied malt bill, while notes of caramel gave it an underlying sweetness reminsicent of toffee apples. This was cut through by the grassy hops in the background which dovetailed with the other flavours to create a pleasing experience. Although blood red in colour, it felt more like a premium bitter in its setup. I've sampled this beer on several occasions in the past and it has never let me down, as usual it delivered in quality and would be a hard act to follow. Alas, I narrowly missed out on some Hedgerow Pale (4.5%) - Portobello, although I was graciously offered on the house the yeasty dregs from the bottom of the barrel, it was a gloriously medley of hops and fruit salad, where sweetness led to a intensely bitter aftertase, it was such a shame I couldn't have more. With the supply of pale ales fast drying up under the intense sun, I quicky snapped up some Ernest Single Hop (5%), a pale ale from Southwark Brewing Co., located in the northern fringes of the borough. It was a case of buyers remorse, as the Ernest hops struggled to impart their flavours, whilst the malty backbone lacked any punch making it oddly sessionable given its strength. While there were some citrussy grassy elements out in the heather, it lacked body and substance, while the aftertaste left a bland taste in my mouth. This was not helped by the temperature of the barrel, as the beer was served warm which made it hard to appreciate the flavours. I found this to be the case for a number of available beers upon sampling, clearly the cooling system was breaking down under the strain of the heat. By now the heat was rising, and we were beginning to wilt under the glare of the Sun. The dark ales by now few and far between, so I went for some London Porter (5%) - Kernel, I've been aware of this beer for quite a while now yet I've never managed to sample it. A throwback to the classic London porters of yesteryear, this is a beer packed with history as it is based on a 1896 recipe from Whitbread; sticking to tradition the brewers used a large proportion of brown malt blended with black malt and East Kent Goldings for additional flavours, making this beer a truly authentic Victorian porter. I was met with a rich and complex roster of roasted malt, with elements of coffee, dried fruits and dark chocolate giving off to a lingering bitterness, while a whisp of charcoal gave it a smokey undercurrent and a rousing finale. The mouthfeel was medium bodied, verging on the creamy, which intensified the flavours with every sip making it thoroughly moreish. It is easy to see which this beer is so highly lauded, judging from the high level of craft that goes into the brewing process. For the final beer of the day, I sampled some Saxon Strong (6.5%) - Mighty Oak, oddly the only non London beer I sourced that afternoon. A barley wine on the lower reaches of the scale, the heat from the barrel killed off any chance to appreciate its depth of flavour. I could detect some profound bitter notes coming from the hops, dovetailed by a underlying caramel like sweetness from the malt. Yet I was unable to appreciate the background hints of dark berries, toffee and wood as mentioned in the program blurb, as the intensity of the heat made the beer increasingly inedible and hard to drink. In the end I had to waste some of it, which is something I thought I never had to resort to. By this time the combination of starchy chips and a succesion of warm beers was starting to pay havoc with my digestive system and I had to call time gentleman please on my trip before it took its toll any further, we left the venue after a measly 90 minutes.
While the festival was clearly popular, it was a miserable experience made worse by the hot weather. There was a poor selection of beers, made worse by the lack of a delayed barrel release policy, which I thought the organisers would have got the hang of by now in their third year of running. For the beers that were left, the cooling system was breaking down to such a degree that many of the beers were served warm, making it hard to appreciate the flavours and equally hard to digest. The choice of venue was also poor, while there was plenty of seating in the stands, there was only a sprinkling of picnic tables by the bar which quicky filled up, so on the whole it inaccesible to the less mobile. This wasn't helped by the one bar layout within a narrow area which quickly led to overcrowding as the admission numbers intensified. If this festival is to continue long into the future, a change of venue is strongly advised, as this stadium is clearly not the right setting to hold a beer festival as it grows in size. On the whole it was a complete shambles from start to finish, this festival is not worth ticking off on the ol' bucket list, you'd be better off down the pub instead.





