Beer Review: Great Newsome Liquorice Lads Stout

Name: Liquorice Lads Stout

ABV: 4.3%

Brewery: Great Newsome

Style: Stout

Location: South Frodingham, Hull, East Yorkshire

Aroma: Jammy notes of plum, followed by a whisp of liquoriche and the familliar notes of coffee, burnt toast and roasted malt associated with stout.

Colour: Dark ruby with a one finger ivory coloured head.

Taste: A potent sharp bitterness assaults the senses, leaving a lingering coffee like essence followed by a mellow fruitiness in the backgroud, the liquoriche seems subdued, almost non existent, though the lack of sweetness makes it seem tart. Mouthfeel is thin and watery.

Verdict: It fails to live up to its expectations, the use of liquorice is more of a marketing gimmick, when it cuts to the chase it fails to make itself heard, while the other elements seem light on flavour other than the roasted malt. The mouthfeel is also a letdown, leaving it a watery mess without any discernable character.

Rating: 4/10 

Ever Decreasing ABV's

Recently the likes of Timothy Taylor unveiled a new beer called Blonde (3.8%) yet beneath the surface, it is essentially a rebranded and weakened version of their established product Knowle Spring (4.2%) which until recently was available on cask. This drive to produce weaker beer was coined Drinkflation, a term coined three years ago by Sean Poulter from the Daily Mail, which means punters unwittingly buy weaker beer while the prices in the pub stay the same or in many cases increase. Poulter adds “while the reductions may appear small, they generate a tax saving of 2p to 3p on every bottle and can made. Rather than passing this saving on to drinkers, the cash is being pocketed by the brewers and retailers.”[1] These changes were first brought in by reforms to the Alcohol Duty system in August 2023, when the government overhauled the existing four band system by introducing six standardised alcohol duty bands across all types of alcoholic products. At the same time, the government increased alcohol duty on all drinks, which resulted in the biggest tax increases on higher-strength beverages in half a century. So, a beer at 5% abv would be taxed at a higher rate than one below 4%. Although the difference was a few pence, millions of pounds could be saved in taxes. Colin Angus, a research fellow from SARG (Sheffield Addictions Research Group) noted at the time if a brewer reduced their beer 0.3%, they could save an estimated £250m on duty payments to the government.[2] Conor Reynolds adds “for a brewer in the ‘at least 3.5% but less than 8.5% abv’ range, they would have to knock 0.5 percentage points off the abv to offset the 10% duty increase.”[3] In anticipation of these changes a number major breweries took the plunge on their popular brands, in June that year Shepherd Neame announced they would be lowering the ABV of two their beers, Spitfire Amber Ale decreased from 4.5% to 4.2% while Bishop’s Finger dropped from 5.4% to 5.2% respectively, a representative claimed this was due to consumers increasingly choosing beers of lower alcohol content as part of a healthy lifestyle. Colin Angus notes “sometimes brewers make the case that they have made these reductions in strength levels on health grounds. Given their historically strong opposition to public health policies, though, the motive is much more likely to be financial.”[4] In the case of Sheps, it was discovered that the brewer saved 3p on Spitfire, and 2p on Bishop’s Finger per every 500ml bottle. The brewery admitted like many in the food and beverage industry they faced siginificant increases in the cost of raw materials, energy and products like glass. They added “these increases are well above the headline rate of inflation. While we are doing everything possible to mitigate these costs, we have had to increase the price of all our beers.”[5] In this instance the term Drinkflation can be easily applied since the consumer isn't financially benefitting from the brewery's cutbacks. Moreover, Greene King used similar comments about financial issues when they reduced the ABV on products including Ruddles Best from 3.7% to 3.4% (in bottles), Old Speckled Hen from 5% to 4.8% (bottles and cans) and their flagship IPA from 3.6% to 3.4%, yet they also noted the move was necessary in order to combat rising costs of raw materials, from malt, glass and packaging to increasing energy rates brought on by external events in recent years like the Ukraine War and the Covid pandemic, whilst brazenly claiming these changes would not affect the quality and taste of their products. While the term Drinkflation is technically correct, Reynolds argues there were various factors behind its emergence since it was brought on by freeze in alcohol duty in 2020, other cost pressures facing brewers, and the government push for lower strength-beers. Coming this angle it seems Drinkflation was an inevitable outcome due to a multitude of issues that eventually had effect on not only the brewing sector but the entire food and beverage industry.

The radical changes to alcohol duty trickled further down the brewing industry, Timothy Taylor cut back the likes of Dark Mild and Golden Best from 3.5% to 3.4% respectively, the same went for Hook Norton’s signature product Hooky and Lakes Brew Co's Pale Ale respectively, while their former neighbours Hawkshead (which now brews in Flookburgh) drastically cut back their iconic Windermere Pale from 4% to a mere 3.4%, while Revival from Moor Brew Co’s radically came down from 3.8% to 3.4%, similarly the likes of Banks Amber Bitter decreased by a similar strength and Hobgoblin Original IPA went down from 5.2% to 4.8% on draught, after previously being reduced from 5.6% by their overlords Carlsberg Britvic. These changes weren’t just limited to session beers, even examples on the stronger end of the scale were affected like Fuller’s Vintage Ale which was cut back from 8.5% to 8.4% when it reappeared later that Autumn and Harvey’s Easter Ale which drastically came down from 6.8% to 5.6% the following Easter. Reflecting on these changes at the end of that year, the Pub Curmudgeon noted “while it is entirely possible to brew good beers at 3.4%, few if any will be improved by having their strength reduced to that level, and many of the beers of that strength tend to be somewhat thin and lacklustre. It would be a depressing prospect if that was to become the norm of British beer drinking.”[6] As 2024 crept into view, megabrewers like Asahi, Molson Coors and Heineken led the charge by reducing the strength on their popular brands. In August, Asahi which owns Dark Star lowered in strength of Hophead from 3.7% to 3.4% in order to benefit from the duty cuts, a spokesman from Asahi stated “entering the lower threshold for duty supports our ability to invest in Dark Star, including continuing to grow Hophead as a national brand.”[7] Meanwhile, consumers shared their frustrations when highlighting that these savings were not passed on, since the wholesale price remained the same. The rollbacks continued, Rebellion IPA went down from 3.7% to 3.4%, and Wild Swan from Thornbridge was trimmed back from 3.5% to 3.4%. Andrew Tindall duly highlighted “if you lose just 0.25% of alcohol in something, it dramatically changes everything from mouthfeel to sweet/bitter tastes.”[8] This was the case when Marble reduced their Pint Bitter from 3.9% to 3.4% in 2023 following introduction of the new duty legislation, after facing a raft of negative feedback from customers they restored it back to 3.9% in 2025. After the changeover, they reported sales of beer had actually increased, showing there was still an appetite for stronger beers. It’s clear from looking at a number sources that alcohol is a volatile component in the brewing process, it is a key driver in enriching beer from establishing compounds that enhance its bouquet to forming a harmonious flavour profile, the blogger Ratatouie adds “for many beer styles, ABV also correlates with the intensity of malt sweetness, hop bitterness and the overall balance of a beer. A beer’s ABV does not dictate sweetness or bitterness directly, but it often gates the level of malt complexity and hop character achievable during brewing, which in turn shapes flavour.”[9] For beers of any style or strength, as history often tells us whenever the ABV is reduced, a part of the beer’s fundamental flavour is lost, for instance when Theakston’s Old Peculier was reduced down to 5.6% during Scottish & Newcastle’s reign over the brewery, drinkers detected a distinct change in its complex flavour profile. For session beers that were developed at a lower ABV from the onset, any reduction in ABV is equally noticeable if not more so. This drive to reduce ABV in session beers creates other issues as Phil Mellows states “add on the draught relief and a brewer pays £8.42 per litre of pure alcohol for a beer of 3.4% compared to £19.08 for a beer of 3.7%. And don’t forget to take off the duty on the 0.3% too. It’s also possible that the ingredients will be cheaper in weaker beer.”[10] This in turn creates a perfect storm that potentially creates an adverse effect on the quality and marketability of established beer brands from independent and regional brewers.  

Despite a change in government in 2024, earlier this year it was announced that alcohol duty would rise by a whopping 3.66% in line with inflation at the start of February, equating to around an additional 2p on the price of a pint in a pub. In addition to this, beers with strengths ranging between 3.5% to 8.4% which were previously paying £21.78 in duty per litre of pure alcohol would now pay £22.58. As a result, British drinkers now pay 54p of duty per pint pulled in a pub, make it the third highest level of tax in Europe, behind Finland and Ireland. These recent changes pushed more brewers into reducing the strength of their beers, notably in May of this year it was announced that Adnams would be cutting back the ABV on a number of their core-range products including Ghost Ship cut back from 4.5% to 4.1%, Southwold Bitter reduced down to a meagre 3.4% and Broadside clipped from 6.3% to 6%, in turn knocking off a layer of its complexity and big-hitting flavour that the brewery waxes lyrical about. In Adnams case, James Flanders notes “the move is a direct response to the country’s alcohol duty system, which now wallops drinks at 3.5% ABV or above with a charge of around £22 per litre of pure alcohol.”[11] A spokesman from Adnams stated “These changes not only align with consumer trends but also offer us an opportunity to create more value to invest back into the growth of our brands.”[11] Yet in the bigger picture Adnams has already had a torrid financial year of late with turnover falling by 6% to £63.7million in 2025, which resulted in the brewer having to trade away their assets by selling a portion of their pub estate in order to keep down their debts, which were cut back to £9.2 million by the end of last year. Current chairman Simon Townshend blamed rising national insurance costs, minimum wage, and a wave of new employment regulations leading to the hospitality sector becoming overtaxed. So, in hindsight the increases in alcohol duty are yet another setback for the already beleaguered brewer. A government source declared “our changes to alcohol duty balance the important contribution of producers, pubs and hospitality with funding vital public services and the harms caused by alcohol.”[12] This message presents us with a double-edge sword, whilst claiming to support the health lobby they have clearly implied that the higher duties will be used to fund government (i.e. public) funded services, which some commentators have labelled as a blatant act of state intervention. Moreover, this latest rise in alcohol duty will only push more breweries to reduce the ABV further in their beers in a bid to cut down costs and reduce their existing financial troubles brought on by external factors. As a result, this all plays into the increasing sales of lower strength and no-alcohol beers which have become one of the fast-growing markets in the last several years, as Tom Haynes notes “the British Beer and Pub Association (BBPA) found sales of beers with strengths of between 1.3pc and 3.4pc alcohol by volume (ABV) have surged from just 35 million pints in 2022 to 912 million pints by the end of 2025, a 2,500pc increase.”[13] There is little doubt that the increase in alcohol duty and the subsequent reduction of ABV in major multinational beer and lager brands brought on by successive tax raids has engineered this. Yet the idea that this helps incentivize healthier drinking is a merely a smokescreen, as Albert Tait points out “brewers claim the reduction is for health reasons. However, it also allows them to save tens of millions of pounds in alcohol duty each year by falling into a lower tax threshold.”[14] CAMRA has a part to play in this, when proposals for raising the lower tax threshold of beer from 2.8% to 3.4% were first proposed in the Autumn Budget of 2021, the organisation threw their support behind these proposals, then chairman Nik Antona stated “cutting tax for lower ABV drinks will incentivise lower strength alcoholic drinks, whilst new financial support for smaller producers.”[15] Yet by supporting this, they helped encourage the large-scale watering of higher strength beers, and invertedly help the mega-brewers to corner their monopoly on the market and decrease the amount of choice in pubs, shutting out the small brewers in the process in what could be seen as a repeat of the 1989 beer orders act that led to the rise of the pubcos. Tim Webb (chairman of CAMRA’s beer and cider campaign committees) noted “Global brewing giants, however, have diluted their recipes to hit the lower tax band, without reducing prices, and sometimes hiking them. This is something that independent brewers simply can’t afford to do or won’t do because it will compromise quality.”[14] Yet their position on this continues to be muddled as current CAMRA chairman Ash Corbett-Collins recently explained “ensuring lower strength beers are served on the bar is essential so consumers have more choice; however, that doesn’t mean that consumers want brewers to lower the ABVs of their existing beers.”[13] In turn by supporting lower strength beers, CAMRA has managed to harm the very industry they were established to support.

For the foreseeable future it looks like more breweries across the UK will jump on the band wagon and reduce the strength of their existing beers in a bid to avoid the wrath of the taxman. From a historical standpoint it is clear that the strength beer has varied depending on the financial situation and politics of the time, indeed there’s nothing new about the recent raft of cutbacks in beer strength since we’ve been here before, during WW1 the pro-temperance Liberal government rose the level of beer duty in the wake of the Defence of the Realm Act in August 1914 which gave the home secretary powers to control the production and supply of alcohol, Roger Protz notes “in real terms, allowing for war-time inflation, the increase in duty between 1914 and 1920 was a staggering 430 per cent.”[16] This in turn pocketed a handy £120 million for the government; which resulted in scores of breweries having to dilute or in some case withdraw their beers entirely, leading Britain having the weakest beer in the world at the time. The same tactics are now being repeated in the modern age as recent governments have increasingly utilized the brewing industry as a cash cow, while claiming the reduction of ABV in beers is all for the good of public health. The diluting of popular beer brands will inevitably have effect on the consumer, while some would embrace the changes postively, others will reject the reduction of strength and cite it as an example of declining quality and shy away leading to a decline in sales. If this underhand scheming from the government is not called out for what it actually is, then the changes to the brewing industry will be irreparable.

List of References 

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[1] 'After shrinkflation, now it's drinkflation!' by Sean Pouler, Daily Mail, 17^th June 2023 

[2] Alcohol Research Group at the University of Sheffield 

[3] 'What is ‘drinkflation? Maybe more than just a cash grab' by Conor Reynolds, Just Drinks 23^rd June 2023

[4] ‘Brits Are Getting Less Booze In Their Beer Due to 'Drinkflation'’ by Jelisa Castrodale, Food & Wine, 20^th June 2023 

[5] 'Shepherd Neame weakens its popular beers Spitfire Amber Ale and Bishop’s Finger – but punters back move', by Gerry Warren, Kent Online, 23rd June 2023

[6] ‘Partial Dilution’ by the Pub Curmudgeon, 4^th December 2023 

[7]‘Asahi reduces Hophead ABV’ by Rebecca Waller, The Morning Advertiser, 28^th August 2024 

[8] Andew Tindall, Linkedin, January 2026

[9] ‘ABV Meaning Beer: The Essential Guide to Alcohol By Volume in Every Pint’ by Ratatouie

[10]‘Opinion: Beer Drinkers too hung up on ABV’s’ by Phil Mellows, The Morning Advertiser, 13^th November 2025

[11] ‘Major UK brewer quietly cuts alcohol content & waters down FOUR popular pints to dodge booze tax raid’ by James Flanders, The Sun, 29^th May 2026

[12] ‘Pubs face ‘last straw’ as Reeves plots £400m tax raid on drinkers’ by Tim Wallace, Telegraph, 11^th January 2026

[13] ‘Sales of weak beer rocket after tax raid’ by Tom Haynes, Telegraph, 4^th June 2026

[14] ‘Why tax raids mean your pint of beer is getting weaker’ by Albert Tait, Telegraph, 11^th February 2026

[15] CAMRA Press Release, 28^th October 2021

[16] ‘Beer and pubs in the firing line’ by Roger Protz, Protz on Beer, 9^th April 2020

Beer Review: Chiltern Three Hundreds Old Ale

Name: Three Hundreds Old Ale

ABV: 5%

Brewery: Chiltern

Style: Old Ale

Location: Terrick, Bucks

Aroma: Malty, with a dash of roasted nuts and warming spices with a residual sourness that suggests it age.

Colour: Dark brown with an off white one finger head.

Flavour: Intial bitterness leads to a background of stewed fruits with a prominent roasted malt element shoring up the rear, the combination of malts gives it a wholemeal bready note with a dash of roasted chesnuts. The hops provide the fruity element and warming aftertaste that is pleasant, not overwhelming. Overall the flavours are a dash on the sour side, which suggest age and maturity. It has touch of Trappist about it, through the multitude of flavours present. The mouthfeel is medium bodied, but not heavy due it to it being gluten free.

Verdict: A satisfying brew full of character and flavour, its bitter undercurrent is helped along with a myriad of fruity and nutty flavours that offer it a characterful counterpoint. With every sip, this warm and brooding beer leaves a mark on the senses, although the lack of gluten gives reduces it body but in return makes it more drinkable despite its strength. This beer leves a memorable mark on the tastebuds, and is a fine example of an old ale. 

Rating: 8/10

Map of Railway Pubs in London

As a follow up to my earlier piece on London pubs with names linking to the railways, whether its a common name like the Railway Tavern, linked to a well-known individual from the industry or an iconic locomotive, I have produced an interactive map that lists all the locations within London.

Click via this link

Beer Review: Badger Blanford Fly

Name: Blandford Fly

ABV: 5.2%

Brewery: Badger

Style: Speciality

Location: Blanford St. Mary, Dorset

Aroma: Grassy hops, honey, a whisp of herbs and a generous lacing of ginger.

Colour: Dark gold with a one finger ivory coloured head.

Taste: A honey like sweetness leads off to a grassy bitterness from the hops, couterpointed by its maltiness, and a rush of ginger that dominates the senses leading to a spicy warming effect on the palate that lingers after every sip. The mouthfeel is smooth yet not cloying, its helps bring the flavours together.

Verdict: Very much a ginger beer in character, it is very essence a speciality beer or a gimmick, that won't set the world alight but would arouse curiousity from onlookers. The use of ginger is very much present without it being too aromatic and spicy which would overide the tastebuds. The sweetness is very much in keeping with this style, though for a beer its seems a bit forced and pushy. This is not something I would pick up again in a hurry.

Rating: 6/10 

Tracing the Rails

Within my immediate locality of Mill Hill/ Edgware there are several pubs with a connection to the railways, in Edgware there was the Railway Hotel opened in 1931, yards away from the original Edgware Station, terminus of the GNR branch line from Finsbury Park, alas both the railway station and pub have long been consigned to history. Over towards Mill Hill there’s the Bridge Tavern situated near the  M1 flyover and railway bridge that carries the Midland mainline and Mill Hill Broadway station. Further up Hale Lane is the Railway Tavern, which was constructed in 1867 to cater for railway navies working on the nearby railway line that was under construction at the time. These gabble of pubs represent a microcosm of the slew of public houses situated near train (and underground) stations around London named in tribute to the railways that branch around London.

The most common names that crop up are the The Railway (8 pubs), The Railway Tavern (7 pubs), The Railway Bell (4 pubs) and The Rocket (3 pubs). While most towns generally have one railway themed pub, some areas have bucked the trend like Gispy Hill, Battersea and New Barnet respectively. Railway themed pubs are usually situated nearby railway stations, although some have been constructed within the station complexes themselves like the Doric Arch (Euston), The Betjeman Arms (St. Pancras Int) or The Sir John Hawkshaw (Cannon Street). Some have pubs have repurposed former railway architecture, like The Parcel Yard at King’s Cross station which was built within the former parcel sorting offices, likewise The Station House in Acton is located within the former booking offices at Acton Central station, and Tap on the Line in Kew is situated within the former station buffet at Kew Gardens station. Various pubs have taken inspiration from railway architecture, like The Crossing in Barnes located near the rail crossing that straddles White Hart Lane, The Junction in Upminster derives from the multitude of rail routes that branch off from the local station, The Signal Box in Euston is located near the major rail termini, while in Forest Hill and Thornton Heath respectively there are pubs called the Railway Telegraph named in reference to the telegraph lines that once straddled the railway lines. Meanwhile there are more obscure instances that take inspiration from railway slang, like The Iron Horse in Sidcup, a micropub situated opposite the station that pays tribute to the pervasive terminology coined for steam locomotives, while The Surbiton Flyer in Surbiton located just outside the station is seemingly inspired by the express locomotives that used to speed through the station towards Surrey and beyond, its name has a double purpose as it also draws reference from the nickname coined for professional cyclist and local residence John Keen.  

Moreover, some pubs are named after railway stations like The Catford Bridge Tavern in Catford, near Catford Bridge station; and The Junction in Battersea which is located close to the entrance of Clapham Junction station. A few yards up Lavender Hill is another railway themed pub The London and South Western, its name derives from the L&SWR (London and South-Western), a railway company which existed between 1838 - 1922 that managed routes from London to places like Southampton, Dorchester, Weymouth, Exeter and formerly Padstow, its extant lines still go through Clapham Junction. There are other instances of pubs being named local railway lines like The Great Southern in Gipsy Hill, the station of its namesake is currently run by Southern, while north of the river The North London in Kilburn is situated near Brondesbury Station on the north London line, likewise The Great Northern Railway Tavern in Hornsey is located near the station that is owned by Great Northern. Back in the steam age, a great number of locomotives were given nameplates, some have been reflected in pubs like The North Star in Ealing, named after Robert Stephenson’s broad gauge GWR locomotive built in 1836 that once straddled the routes between Paddington to Bristol. A more recent example is The Kentish Belle in Bexley named a locomotive that formerly ran on the nearby mainline from London towards Faversham and Canterbury East between 1948 to 1959. The Rocket is currently the most common example among locomotive names for pubs in London, another Stephenson locomotive it notably ran that first steam hauled passenger service between Liverpool to Manchester in 1830, and its design provided the template for steam locomotives going forward. A number of notable luminaries from the railway industry have also been namechecked in pubs, like The Brunel in Rotherhithe named after civil engineers Marc and Isambard Kingdom Brunel who developed the Thames Tunnel, markedly the first underground commuter tunnel built under the Thames, completed in 1843. Another example The Sir John Hawkshaw in Tower Hill, references the civil engineer who was intially responsible for navigating routes and branch lines in Lancashire and Manchester, before moving to London in 1850 where he developed L&SER routes from Charing Cross and Cannon Street, the East London line and the District Line that runs through Tower Hill station. The Charles Holden in Colliers Wood namechecks another designer of note, architect Charles Holden who designed a number of underground stations during the 1920’s and 1930’s noted for their distinct art-deco appearance, including Colliers Wood. Another railway pub that pays tribute to its heritage is The Lord Aberconway in Liverpool Street, named after Liberal MP Charles McLaren – Lord Aberconway, who was the chairman of the Metropolitan Railway between 1904 – 1933, which happens to run through this station. St Pancras is likewise another major rail termini that has a railway themed pub, The Betjeman Arms, named after poet laureate John Betjeman who successfully campaigned to save the gothic mid-Victorian station building designed by George Gilbert-Scott from destruction in the 1960’s. Overall its quite understandable for a city with such an extensive and integrated rail network to have a sizeable number of railway themed pubs that pay tribute to its rich railway heritage, from namechecking rail routes, referencing architectural features, notable luminaries, iconic steam locomotives, to common names like The Railway Tavern or The Rocket for instance, London has it all.