Starstruck Pubs

Hollywood is well known for its slew of mansions once owned by stars of the silver screen, could the same be insinuated with London’s flock of pubs once regularly populated by notable luminaries. Although most of these pubs tend to be concentrated around central London, particularly near the West End theatres, there are some instances of pubs in the outskirts that have hosted various notables from different walks of life over the years. Some individuals like Dylan Thomas, Samuel Peyps, George Orwell, Peter O’Toole and Charles Dickens even have connections with a number of pubs in London; these pubs must surely be as noteworthy as any Hollywood mansion?

 

The Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in Fleet Street has often been dubbed the literary pub, attracting the likes of Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats, Mark Twain, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Alfred Tennyson, George Orwell, P.G. Woodhouse, Ezra Pound, G.K. Chesterton and Dr. Samuel Johnson. Dickens praised the place as having “a good plain meal with good wine,” while Wodehouse preferred it over private members clubs since it had a better clientele. The pub was also location for the Rhymers Club, a group of London-based poets, founded in 1890 by W. B. Yeats and Ernest Rhys. Other noteworthy customers included Princess Margaret, Voltaire and Winston Churchill.Over 40 years later, the Lamb in Bloomsbury was a popular haunt for the Bloomsbury Group, while in earlier times Dickens was said to frequent the place when he lived in nearby Doughty Street. Ted Hughes was also a regular, and during the early stages of their relationship, he met with Sylvia Plath on several occasions. Another pub with literary connections is The Fitzroy Tavern in Fitzrovia, which was a regular haunt for including Dylan Thomas, Augustus John, Michael Bentine, Virginia Woolf, George Bernard Shaw and Jacob Epstein. Thomas would often write poems on the back of beermats and hand them to lady customers, a prominent alcoholic this place was among a vast number of pubs he regularly visited in London, that included The George where he mingled with his BBC colleagues, The Wheatsheaf which also was a haunt for his contemporary George Orwell and The French House in Soho where he once left the manuscript for Under Milk Wood, it was also frequented by the likes of Francis Bacon, David Bowie and Lucien Freud. During WW2 it was the unofficial headquarters of the Free French; Charles de Gaulle regularly drank here and within this building wrote his iconic speech rallying the French to action. Another Soho pub of note is The Coach & Horses, it was popular with artists like Bacon and Freud, while Frank Auerbach often accompanied writer Bruce Bernard to discuss about painting. On the entertainment front, Peter Cooke and Willie Rushton regularly ‘lunched’ here, Private Eye held their fortnightly meetings in the Chill Room upstairs and Peter O’ Toole was often seen in his later years. Their most notable customer was his friend and Spectator columnist Jeffrey Bernard who often resided here most of the day, so much so the place was dubbed ‘Jeff’s Office’. And, whenever the office needed his copy, they would directly ring the pub, since he was often there between visits to the Spectator’s offices.

 

Likewise, Richard Harris had a regular pub, The Coal Hole in the Strand during the years when he resided at the Savoy, he often sat in a chair behind the slot machines to avoid attention from the public and once remarked “I turned Hamlet down because it was going to take up too much of my drinking time.” A century earlier, this place was also a refuge for W.S. Gilbert (of Gilbert & Sullivan fame) who would often come here during opening nights to seek some Dutch courage after building himself up into a state of nervousness. Around the West End, there are a number of pubs that were popular with thespians, the most notable was The Salisbury, among it illustrious cast list included Richard Burton, Roger Moore, Peter O’Toole, Richard Harris, Oliver Reed, Terrance Stamp, Albert Finney, Robert Shaw, Kenneth Griffith, Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Marianne Faithfull to name a few. Its back alleyway linked onto a number of theatres, useful for quite a number of actors who had to rush off quicky for their curtain calls. Johnny Briggs (Mike Baldwin in Coronation Street) noted in his autobiography that he used to visit the pub with his actor friends Richard Burton, Roger Moore, Peter O’Toole and Richard Harris. He mentions several notable instances, such as when O’ Toole turned up in his costume after returning from filming for ‘Lawrance of Arabia’ (1962) where he yelled “I’m home for the desert dears!”, Briggs retorted “never mind the desert, have you got your bloody handbag so you can buy the beers?” On another occasion he recalled Burton berating Elizabeth Taylor for trying to order a Martini, when the pub had a strict policy on only serving beer, booming “look, woman, you’ll have a bloody pint or a bloody half-pint, so whaddya want?” Whenever the pub opened Harris was always first at the door, and often visited between curtain calls at nearby theatres. Such was his admiration for the place, following a successful run in ‘Henry IV’ at the Wyndham Theatre in 1990, Harris organised a celebratory party at the pub.

 

Going towards the outskirts of London, there are a slew of pubs popular with luminaries. Hampstead boasts a few worthy examples. The Holly Bush for instance was once popular with the likes of Dr. Samuel Johnson, who was often accompanied by his biographer and drinking buddy James Boswell. In more recent times actor Jude Law is reported to be a regular, as well as brother Noel and Liam Gallager (of Oasis) have drank here. The latter was thrown out of the pub one evening after arguing with the landlord over whether or not he paid his drinks. On the outskirts of the Heath, the Magdala Tavern has welcomed a host of luminaries over the years, thanks to info uncovered by Neil Titley in his book ‘Under Ken Wood’. During the early years of his career, Bob Hoskins regularly drank here while renting a room in nearby Parliament Hill, during the period when he worked at the Unity Theatre in Camden. Likewise, Peter Barkworth who lived in Flask Walk, regularly visited the pub. Richard Wymark was also a regular, his wife Olwyn always felt odd accompanying him, since she knew that he slept with every woman in the pub. His contemporary Peter Witsun-Jones also frequented the establishment, even after his death in 1974 his widow Sylvia continued to regularly visit the pub. Ronald Fraser, another local resident was a frequent visitor to Hampstead’s many watering holes, could be seen at The Mags (as it was nicknamed) during his regular pub crawls. Such was it connection to the acting industry, during pre-production on ‘Where Eagles Dare’ (1968) the casting director walked into the pub one evening and managed to recruit several actors for the production, Richard Burton, Patrick Wymark, William Squire, Peter Barkworth, and Derren Nesbit, who all happened to be in the pub that very evening, the film has been erroneously dubbed the Magdala film.[1] On the other side of the Heath, the Spaniards Inn has boasted a number of notable regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin, the poet John Keats who lived at nearby Wentworth Place wrote his poem ‘An Ode to a Nightingale’ in the pub garden, his friend and fellow poet Lord Byron also frequented this establishment when journeying to and from London, often accompanied by his friends including Mary Shelley. Robert Louis Stephenson frequently visited and sometimes lodged here, as well as the artists William Hogarth, Joshua Reynolds and John Constable, whom subsequently featured the pub in his painting ‘Road to the Spaniards, Hampstead’ (1822) which shows view across Hampstead Heath along Spaniard Road. It was also visited by Bram Stoker, who mentions it in his seminal novel ‘Dracula’. The Flask in neighbouring Highgate was also popular with Keats and Byron, who often dropped by whilst visiting their friend Samuel Colleridge Taylor who resided in the house opposite. Hogarth often visited here, and once sketched a fight between two other customers as they fought with tankards. In more recent times, it was popular with the likes of local residents Karl Marx, Sid Vicious and George Michael.

 

While the Magdala has close links with the acting industry, the same could be said for The Hawley Arms in Camden with its links to the music industry. Formerly a bikers pub, in 2002 it was taken over by Ruth Mottram and Doug Charles-Ridler, who transformed the pub’s fortunes by installing a jukebox, organising their shows and establishing an upstairs bar and roof terrace. Word soon spread and it gradually became popular with the luminaries of the music industry at the time, among its regulars included members of the bands Razorlight, the Arctic Monkeys and Kaiser Chiefs. Noel Fielding and Julian Barratt from the Mighty Boosh also frequently visited, often taking part in after hours pub quizzes. Its most noteworthy regular was Amy Winehouse who lived in nearby Prowse Place, on some occasions she even helped out behind the bar, in order to soak in the atmosphere. Tim Burgess from the Charlatans described the place as being a cross between Camberwick Green and Stella Street. The Pineapple in Kentish Town also has an impressive roll call of customers over the years including Rufus Sewell, Jon Snow, Roger Lloyd-Pack, Ken Stott, Andrew Motion and former London mayor Ken Livingstone, when the pub was threatened with redevelopment in 2001, they supported the Save the Magdala campaign to reopen it as pub. In more recent times, our current PM Keir Starmer once quoted this place was his favourite place to drink since they do a very good pint, proving that pubs continue to be poplar even with our heads of government. Moreover, the Prospect of Whitby is another iconic local pub with a long list of famous customers, including Charles Dickens, Samuel Peyps, the artists JMW Turner and James McNeil Whistler who both painted views of the pub, and the explorer Sir Hugh Willoughby, who sailed from here in 1553 to seek the North-East Passage which ended in failure and death. A century later, Judge Jeffries often came here to watch executions over on nearby Execution Dock. More recently the likes of Judy Garland, Paul Newman, Princess Margaret, Richard Burton, Prince Rainier of Monaco and Frank Sinatra have been served here. Further along the Thames, the Dove in Hammersmith is noted for having the record for the smallest bar in the country (at 7 feet long), it also boasts a list of notables, including Grahame Greene, Alec Guinness, Ernest Hemmingway and William Morris who happened to live next door. Charles II reportedly wined and dined his mistress Nell Gwynne here, and James Thompson is said to have written the words for his poem ‘Rule Britannia’ here in 1740, later adapted to music by Thomas Arne. A later regular was Dylan Thomas, during the period when he lived in a flat in Manresa Road in nearby Chelsea. A nearer pub that Thomas frequented was The Phene, it was also popular with the likes of Michael Angelis, Nicholas Ball, Bill Rouke and ex-footballer George Best, whom would frequently order a white wine (his favourite tipple), such was his attachment to the place he even proposed to his 2^nd wife here in 1995, and during a theatre tour, his close-friend and former Fulham associate Rodney Marsh who was often pick up Best from the pub before driving off to do a show.

 

There are some pubs in London that only have one famous customer of note, when Dylan Thomas lived on Milkwood Road, Herne Hill, he would often visit his local The Half Moon, especially on match days when he visited the London Velodrome to watch his rugby team London Welsh play. After each game, he could be seen joining the team’s players at the bar, engaging in conversation. Eight miles west in Wimbledon, the Dog & Fox situated by the common was often visited by local resident Oliver Reed. On one notable occasion he travelled to the pub on his horse Dougal. After seeing him looking forlorn in the stables, he went to the estate agents next door and offered to by a field for his horse, he subsequently brought Broom Hall where he lived for much of the 70’s. Moreover, he would often choose this place as the first stop on his infamous pub crawl known as ‘The Wimbledon 8’ which involved visiting all of the common’s eight existing pubs at the time.[2] The idea was to have a pint in each pub, which each site being within 15 minutes’ walk from one to another, although the most he ever managed was three. Meanwhile, when George Orwell was living in Canonbury between 1944-7, he often visited the Compton Arms, a cosy backstreet local. It’s charm and atmosphere clearly influenced Orwell to write his iconic 1946 essay ‘The Moon Under Water’ where he describes his ideal pub. Another writer of note who had his own ‘ideal pub’ was Barry Cryer. A comedian and prolific comedy writer working with the likes of Kenny Everett, The Two Ronnies, Bob Hope, Spike Milligan, Richard Pryor, Tommy Cooper, Jasper Carrott, George Burns, Stanley Baxter etc. When he lived in Hatch End, his favourite watering hole was The Moon & Sixpence, a branch of Wetherspoons which he visited since 2009. Cryer would often visit every weekend with his friends, he frequently signed photos and autographs for other customers, told jokes and stories from his illustrious career and in time got to know every regular in the pub, including the staff.[3] Despite having visited exclusive clubs like the Garrick over the years, he once quoted “I’ve been in to all these clubs because everyone assumes I’m a member. I much prefer my local Wetherspoons, The Moon and Sixpence in Hatch End. I’m the thinking woman’s lager lout.” Cryer passed away in January 2022, and later that year his widow Theresa unveiled a memorial mural at an event held at the pub, a permanent tribute highlighting Cryer’s life in words and photographs.

 

All over London there are a slew of pubs that were once popular with the great and the good, from literary pubs like Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese and Fitzroy Tavern to theatre-land hangouts like The Salisbury or icons of the music industry like The Hawley Arms. On the outskirts of town, there’s a number of pubs with roll-call of famous customers, Hampstead tops the list with pubs like The Spaniards Inn, The Holly Bush, The Duke of Hamilton and The Magdala, while the likes of The Prospect of Whitby, The Flask and The Phene are good challengers to its throne. There are some pubs that boast one famous customer as one of their biggest claims to fame, The Dog & Duck, The Half Moon and The Compton Arms are all noteworthy historic examples. In more recent times, The Moon & Sixpence has been added to this roster, even going to point of producing a tribute plaque to its most famous regular.[4] There a vast number of London Bus tours all over the centre town giving tourists the opportunity to get guided view of London’s landmarks, perhaps there should be one for London’s landmark pubs as well, that were formerly frequented by a number of famous luminaries, time will tell.

References

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[1] Burton also frequented another Hampstead pub, The Duke of Hamilton, along with actor friends Peter O’ Toole and Oliver Reed.

[2] The pubs that featured in the Wimbledon 8, include the Dog & Fox, the Hand in Hand, Crooked Billet, Fox and Grapes, Rose and Crown, Firestables, Brewery Tap and Finch's. Only five are still in business today.

[3] Such was his iconic status at this pub, he once opened a beer festival that took place there. On another occasion, he turned on the town’s Christmas lights outside the pub.

[4] At the Wheatsheaf in Soho, there plaques near the entrance dedicated to both George Orwell and Dylan Thomas who frequently drank here.

The Pubs of the Edgware Road (Marble Arch to Edgware)

In his 1968 documentary ‘Marble Arch to Edgware’ poet John Betjeman travelled along the entire length of Edgware Road, whilst railing against the clean lines of postwar modernity and mournfully reminiscing about the loss of its once bucolic and charming landscape. The Edgware Road follows the course of Watling Street, a Roman road that stretched from Dover to Wroexter. The modern Edgware Road dates from 1811, when Thomas Telford modernised the route from London – Holyhead, forming the basis of the current A5 trunk road. Along the route from Marble Arch to Edgware there were a sizeable number of pubs along the way, a good amount were originally coaching inns dating back to the 15^th century. During filming in late 1967 there was still a hefty cluster of pubs that lined the entire route of the Edgware Road, but since then a vast number of the establishments have since closed or been demolished all in the name of Progress and Destruction. As Betjeman noted “Come on lets make a dash and meet it where we enter, the road that no one looks upon except as birds of passage. Oh Edgware Road, be our abode, and let us hear your message.”

 

The then newly built Odeon, Marble Arch features prominently in the documentary, replacing the former Regal Cinema which was built near the site of the former New Inn which was demolished to make way for the new cinema. In 2000, JD Wetherspoons opened The Tyburn, named in reference to the Tyburn Tree where mass executions took place (on the site where Marble Arch now resides) from the 12^th century until 1783. Unfortunately this pub was also sent to the gallows in 2016, when the entire complex fell victim to The Bryanston project and was later demolished. The southern part of the road between Paddington and Maida Vale is affectionately known as Little Cairo due to its sheer number of Middle-Eastern restaurants and shisha bars. One such establishment, a Lebanese restaurant called Al Arez has a faded pub sign, where once The Old English Gentleman resided. Formerly known as the Kings Head, it was first licenced in 1817, it was rebuilt in 1935 as part of an office and retail development. Despite a name change in 1987, its latter-day owners Enterprise Inns sold and closed the pub in 2009. Further up the road, an unassuming branch of Coffee Island with its impressive Georgian façade once housed The King’s Arms, dating back to 1805, this former Watney’s pub was gradually cutback over the years after it was sold to hotel developers, spending its final years as a basement bar. It’s poignant to think that none of the seven pubs on this southernly stretch of the route now exist south of the Marylebone Flyover, yet incredibly The Green Man just a stone’s throw away from Edgware Road Station has survived, this site dates back to 1720, although the current building was constructed in 1867. This marble fronted corner-pub is now part of Pubs Love chain, which runs seven combined pubs/ hostels across London. Soon we find ourselves in the affluent neighbourhood of Maida Vale, named after the battle of Maida in 1806 between the British and French forces, outside the town of Maida (in Calabria, Italy). As we go northwards pass the West End gate development where Clutterbucks (The Wheatsheaf) once resided on the site until 1992 when it closed and was subsequently demolished. A few yards on the right at the corner of Boscobel Street, a bright crimson façade once housed The Portman Arms. Built in 1873, it was initially a Coombe & Co house, until it later merged into Watney, Coombe & Reid. By the 1980’s it had been taken on by the Kissane Taverns group, established by Christy Kissane who ran several Irish themed pubs around London. He eventually sold it to the Chef & Brewer chain where it was eventually turned into Dar Marakesh, a restaurant/ shisha bar before closing in 2023. Despite passing through many hands, echoes of its past remain, from its elegant mid-Victorian frontage with Corinthian style pilasters while at roof level there are two extant gables that bear the text of its original namesake. Just before the Regents Canal, an unassuming pair of shops adorns the frontage of the former Hero of Maida pub. Built in 1809, it was named after General Sir John Stuart, who was a lieutenant-general in the Napoleonic Wars and helped the British forces defeat the French at the Battle of Maida. This pub was instrumental in giving the name to Maida Hill (where it stood) and the area beyond. From it’s opening, it was exclusively run by the Goode family, until its closure in 1992 where it was converted into retail units. Today, the original building still exists largely in-tact, including the entrance to the former coach yard and the free-standing pub sign.

As we head up northwards towards Kilburn, Betjeman notes “Ho for Kilburn High Road, Ho for a sumptuous feast, it’s your road and my road, and Ireland meets the East.” This area is noted for the highest population of Irish born and second-generation descent anywhere in London, and for having the greatest concentration of pubs anywhere in the Edgware Road. The most southernly public house on this thoroughfare is The Queen’s Arms, a large corner pub that was rebuilt in 1958 after the original building was destroyed in the blitz on 26th September 1940. The origins of the area date to the 11^th century when a priory was constructed, subsequently by 1444 a guesthouse was built on the site. This hostel later became The Red Lion, as early as 1721 it was recorded as a licenced house; rebuilt several times, in 1890 it was renovated into its present three-storey structure. Owned by Charrington’s at the time, then landlord C.E Jenkins (between 1905-14) who was a former hypnotist under the name of Professor Morris used to organise annual concerts where he would show off his skills to the punters. It was renamed The Westbury in 2007, and ultimately Soul Store West before closing in 2017. A few years ago, Wetherspoons tried to reopen the pub, but these plans stalled due to local planning issues and the building remains vacant. Immediately opposite lies The Old Bell, dating from c.1600, it was originally a coaching inn built on the site of a former mansion, and by the 18^th century it became popular with tourists as it was located near the site of Kilburn Wells. In 1863 it was rebuilt, one of its notable architectural features are the twin turrets that extend from the frontage, formerly run by Taylor Walker and currently Stonegate, it was renovated several years ago, some the original Victorian fixtures still remain. Passing the newly reopened Kilburn Bridge pub, originally opened as the Volunteer Hotel in the mid-19^th century, it was one of three pubs on the high street once owned by Charrington’s. Another family connection is The Juniper, formerly known as The Cock Tavern, allegedly dating from 1486, during the early 19^th century it was run by Hugh McDermot, who son-in-law ran The Hero of Maida a few miles down the road. In 1900, it’s then owners Truman’s rebuilt the pub into a impressive three-storey structure, where a number of the ornate original features are still extant. The pub is notable for once housing the Cock Tavern Theatre in its first-floor function room between 2009-11, where they staged a number of intimate shows to an audience of 40. In 2016, Greene King sold and closed the pub, three years later it was reopened under its current guise as a bar and brasserie. Heading towards the centre of town, The Cooper’s Arms is shining example of architecture. Rebuilt by owners Charrington’s in 1926 under the auspices of architect Sidney Clark, it was designed in the mock-tudor style that was popular at the time, with stucco frontage and exposed timber framing. It was blended with more contemporary flourishes with art-deco stained-glass windows displaying Charrington’s signage, wood panelled walls and a bar counter replete with pilasters and fielded panelling. Over time this pub has become a pillar in the local Irish community, in 2000 it was immortalized in the film ‘County Kilburn’ set exclusively in this very pub, providing an invaluable insight into the pub’s communal appeal. Immediately opposite is The Earl of Derby, a locally listed former Worthington’s pub dating from 1869, it was a striking three-storey structure built in yellow brick with neo-classical flourishes adorned with arched windows and decorative mouldings throughout; another popular Irish boozer, sadly this local bit the dust last December. Another local institution is The Fiddler, now a live music venue, it was once the flagship of the Kissane Taverns franchise, owner Christy Kisane was a fervent Kerry fan who decorated the walls in the team colours (green and gold), showed all the Kerry Gales GAA games and hosted the players whenever they visited. When he died in October 2015, hundreds of mourners attended his funeral procession on Kilburn High Road as it passed by the pub.

 

Soon the cluster of pubs around Kilburn becomes highly concentrated, many of the former establishments still exist at least in structural form such as The Victoria Tavern, a corner facing 1860’s pub that now houses a betting shop, or The Lord Palmerston, a listed 19^th century three storey building with rendered elevations, rounded arched windows, topped off with a steeply pitched roof with dormers and curved gables; closed since 1998 it is currently a branch of Nandos. Thankfully many of the historic public house still exist in this area, The Sir Colin Campbell is another boozer on this long stretch between Marble Arch-Edgware with historical connections. It was named after Sir Colin Campbell who commanded the Highland Brigade during the Crimean War and later became Commander-in-Chief of India during the uprising of 1857, his likeliness bears proudly over the hanging sign. It was constructed in 1898 by Watney, Coombe and Reid during the boom period of pub building the area. A small two room local, historical features can still be seen around the vicinity, such as the distinct Watney’s roundel above the hanging sign, glazed brown tiling on the ground floor, dimpled leaded windows and the island bar which is still divided into two areas. Currently managed by the decedents of Irish emigres, it has become popular with the local community, holding regular gigs every weekend playing traditional Irish music. It is one of a trio of pubs in the area listed on CAMRA’s inventory of pubs with historic interiors, the same goes for The Black Lion which has the prestigious three-star rating. A grade II listed building constructed in the same year as its neighbour, it was designed by architect R.A. Lewcock on commission by then owners Michell and Aldous who ran a nearby brewery. A veritable drinking palace, the interior is sumptuously decorated with an ornate ceiling, a series of copper relief panels that line the upper walls (designed by F.A. Callcott) depicting 18^th century folk at leisure, partitions with etched glass windows and a long bar-counter with fielded panelling and pilasters which is backed off with a grandiose bar-back with decorative cornices and plasterwork friezes. Despite a major refurbishment in 2003, much of the original interior has been preserved and three years ago cask facilities returned after many years absence when it was sold to London Village Inns, who run several bustling pubs around London. Passing beneath Brondesbury Station towards the end of Kilburn High Road is The North London Tavern. A product of its time, it was built in 1894 by Wenlock Brewery, chiefly catering for the local railway workers. Subsequently run by Charringtons, this pub currently has a one-star rating on CAMRA’s inventory of pubs with interiors of historical interest, incidentally there are some original design features still extant, such as the terrazzo spittoon that surrounds the rear part of the counter, gilt and cut class mirrors on the walls to the glazed partition that once separated the public bar from the billiards room, now used for dining. This emphasis on dining is more greatly amplified today under its current owners Greene King who cater towards a family/ dog friendly atmosphere, organising regular quiz nights and open mic events which have become inherently popular.

 

Leaving Kilburn behind, the road goes up in an upwards elevation, Betjeman notes “With Shoot-Up-Hill before us, we leave the hemmed in town and raise a country chorus to Cricklewood and the Crown.” Before the 1920’s, much of the area northwards was predominantly rural and undeveloped, which is hard to picture from a modern viewpoint with the endless parade of buildings that straddle the course of the Edgware Road. Heading into the High Street, two pubs straddle its southern edge, The Beaten Docket is relatively new addition to the area, having opened in 1991 by JD Wetherspoons on the site of a former shop, incidentally it is named after a losing betting ticket and there are many framed prints around the pub reflecting the racing link. Immediately opposite lies The Windmill, constructed by Thomas Clutterbuck & Co. in 1900, it was envisaged as a hotel offering facilities to passing travellers, to this day it still operates as a hotel in addition to its accompanying bar. By 1923, Clutterbucks has ceased as a company, having ceased their brewing operations seven years earlier, by this time the pub had been sold onto Taylor Walker, who were now running three pubs in the high street by this time that also included The Crown and The Cricklewood Hotel. This place has had a chequered history going through successive owners, frequently closing down and reopening, its existence as a hotel hangs in the balance as Brent Council mulls over the possibility of converting the hotel rooms into flats. Betjeman paints a vivid view of the area and of The Crown that proudly resides in its epicentre, “there stood a village market place where now you buy your yams, and I like a memory to trace the red electric trams. However far their journeys made, they always waited here and in this terracotta shade their passengers drank beer.” Like its rival establishment down the road, this pub was constructed a hotel. Originally a coaching inn dating back to 1750, in 1889 its then owners Cannon Brewery took the bold decision to rebuild it. Constructed by architects Shoebridge and Rising, the fixtures were overseen by Henry Whiteman Rising whose pub designs were known for their intricate woodwork and complex bar fittings. Designed in the Jacobean revival style, Historic England describe it as a grand public house faced in sandstone with rusticated arched columns above the entrance flanked with pilasters, while the first-floor projection boasts an impressive 16-light bay window, while the upper two dormer storeys above are recessed into its elaborate Masnard roof structure, standing four storeys high it was an imposing structure, it quickly became a local landmark in the area. The bar interior is equally impressive, a parquet floor surrounds the original bar counter with fielded panelling, backed up by a high bar-back with a row of etched mirrors featuring birds and flowers on the upper shelves, while the ornate ceiling is complimented by the spandrels that frame the outer windows. The pub was originally divided into three areas, namely Buffet, Dining Room and Billiards, and these signs can still be seen on the doors. Unfortunately, the dividing area has since been removed, though the three carved fireplaces are echoes to its former glory. A grade II listed building, despite renovations over the years much of the original bar and external fittings have been maintained, currently owned by the AG Hotels Group, the site reopened for business in April 2023. Heading northwards, we pass Barretts Free House, one of a number of one-bar Irish pubs that straddle the course of the road between Cricklewood – Burnt Oak. Many of these pubs were built on the site of former shops and have only opened within the last 40 years. On the junction with Mora Road, we pass the impressive structure of The Cricklewood Hotel, built in 1890, it was initially a Cannon Brewery house, and some of their original decorations are still visible from the frontage, such as the signage reading 'Fine ales and stouts' that displays proudly over the ground floor structure fronted in Portland Stone. The building has two turret structures facing the Edgware Road side, these are rounded off at the upper reaches with the brewery’s trademark cannon signage, carved into the stone. The pub was later taken over by Taylor Walker in 1930, over the years it has operated as a heritage inn and Jamaican rum bar respectively, before closing in 2017, it currently operates as a Shisha bar.

Passing through Staples Corner with its mass of ring roads and large retail units, it’s hard to picture this area as a rural idyll that once greeted travellers during the Victorian age. Beyond the spaghetti junction lies the site of the Welsh Harp reservoir which Betjeman describes in reminiscent tones “see the Welsh Harp with undulating shore and hear beyond the road’s arterial roar. Your swinging signboards, barns with curly tails, your little lakes on which the Sunset smiles.” Just over the bridge that goes over the Brent River, resides the former site of The Old Welsh Harp which was still existence at the time of Betjeman’s documentary. Originally a coaching inn initially known as the Harp and Horn, its earliest records date back to 1751. From 1848 onwards it is listed as a public house and a few years later the nearby Welsh Harp reservoir and nature reserve were constructed, named after the pub that straddled its edge. In 1858, William Perkins Warner became the landlord, he leased the adjoining fields and held various events such as horse racing, swimming, greyhound races, ice skating, a menagerie and notably organised the first ever bike race held in England. Following his acquisition of the pub, he rebuilt the site to modern Victorian standards, in order to bring in more customers and introduce a large dining room that could also stage music hall entertainment, the pub was even featured in the popular song “The Jolliest Place That’s Out” which Warner personally helped to write. Such was his influence in the local area, in 1870 he persuaded the Midland Railway to build a railway station near his pub in order to increase footfall. Warner passed away in 1889 and it continued to be run by his widow and brother John for another decade before it was passed onto successive owners. By the 20^th century the pub’s popularity declined, despite it being a rebuilt a second time in 1937, its closure was inevitable when the southernly extension of the M1 was constructed which forced the demolition of the building in 1970. Meanwhile over on the northern banks of the reservoir once stood the former site of The Upper Welsh Harp. It was constructed in the 1850’s following the construction of the reservoir, though a building had existed on this site since 1826. It later was run by Taylor Walker, and became popular with anglers, ramblers and ornithologist using the nearby reserve, even Bill Oddie was alleged to have visited this place occasionally. In 2008 it became an Indian restaurant known as Raw Spice and it continued for another seven years when it closed in 2015. Despite attempts by local campaigners to grant this place listed status, this ultimately fell on deaf ears and the site was demolished in 2017, subsequently a development of apartment blocks was built in its place. A few yards away, an unassuming Supermarket complex once housed the site of The World’s End, an outpost of the JD Wetherspoon’s empire that opened in 1992, and once made its way to the CAMRA Beer Guide (in the same year), before being taken over by Ambishus six years later and closing a decade subsequently.  As we reach The Hyde on the fringes of West Hendon, The King’s Arms was another former pub that was repurposed in its final years. Built in 1878, it was originally a Clutterbucks house known as The Magpie and Stump. Trumans eventually took over the running of the building and their signage could be seen around the vicinity, including its distinctive gable that bared its trademark logo. Later on, it was taken over by Enterprise Inns, who repainted the frontage a ghastly black, and removed the handpumps, it was subsequently known as Kings and latterly the King’s Lounge by 2009 and five years later it became Black Leaf Lounge, a restaurant/ shisha bar. The site closed in 2020, and plans are currently in place to demolish the building and turn into a mixed apartment/ office space.

We soon find ourselves in the former county of Middlesex which had become part of the Greater London area only three years before Betjeman’s documentary was broadcast. Evidently, he openly laments about its tragic loss, a vanished county of weatherboarded farms, sudden hills, willowy brooks, winding lanes and rills, all destroyed in the name of progress. He sums it up by bluntly stating “dear Middlesex, dear vanished country friend, your neighbour London killed you in the end.” Like its neighbour The Upper Welsh Harp further down the road, there is absolutely no trace of The Surrey Arms. Constructed in c.1891, it was initially a Michell and Aldous house before it was taken on by Trumans. Much like the fate of other pubs in the area, in 2009 it became Funky Brownz, an Indian restaurant/ shisha bar, yet ultimately the site closed in 2019 and was demolished the following year, buried under yet another apartment complex. Going towards Colindale which was originally named after the Collin family whom lived there during the 16^th century, on the junction with Kingsbury Road once resided The Red Lion, built in 1878 by Clutterbucks, it was later taken over by Charrington’s who subsequently rebuilt the site in 1931. It was subsequently taken over by Taylor Walker. During the 1970’s, it became one of the beacons of cask ale in London when its very existence of cask was threatened by the scourge of keg beer in pubs at the time, and it even featured in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide for four consecutive years between 1979-83. In 2005, it was turned into Red Pepper, an Indian restaurant before it latterly closed in 2008. The site was demolished the following year and a care home now occupies its site. The Moon Under Water is one of the more fortunate pubs in the area to still be in business, currently the most northernly outpost of the JD Wetherspoon empire on the Edgware Road, it opened on 15^th November 1990 on the site of a former Woolworth’s store. A large pub catered primarily towards dining and live sports, living up it to its owner’s ethos it stocks a good number of real ales from various London breweries, this site often has featured on many a pub tour by the local Enfield & Barnet CAMRA branch. The town also boasts a few Irish pubs including Erin’s Hope located opposite the Wetherspoon’s branch, and The Shanakee near the junction with Wakeman’s Hill Avenue. It former neighbour Clery’s Clock was located on the corner, and it was notable for being one of the few larger Irish pubs in the area before it closed in December 2023. Moving forth towards Burnt Oak, which was once predominately farmland except for a few pubs and a handful of shops along the Edgware Road, this all changed with the construction of the Watling Estate and local underground station in 1924. Until a decade ago the area boasted a healthy number of pubs, near the site of the former branch of Tesco’s once resided The Bald Faced Stag, originally a hostelry, the earliest records date back to 1805 when the area was still known as Red Hill, initially it was made up of three different buildings. By 1861, it is recorded as a public house where in the census, landlord Richard Parker is listed as licenced victualler. In the early 20^th century, Charringtons took over the running of the pub and rebuilt it in 1928 to the cost of £13,300, adding a further extension in 1930 which cost £7,000. The pub had a reputation for rowdiness and unfriendly regulars, late night brawls were a frequent occurrence, and true to its reputation a sign outside the door read ‘Please Beware, This is the Bald Faced Stag’. Writer and broadcaster Robert Elms who grew up in the area, memorably mentions the pub in his book ‘London Made Us’ where he vividly describes the rowdy atmosphere as entertainment, it was not uncommon for regulars to lock the landlord in the cupboard and help themselves to drinks, as well drunken duels taking that took place in the carpark as punters battled each other with chair legs. Despite efforts to improve it, Punch Taverns sold and closed the site in 2012; six years later planning permission was approved to convert the building into a supermarket with apartments on the upper floors. Like its neighbour Colindale, this area has also has a number of Irish pubs including The New Inn and Blarneys, the latter is notable for its green and gold frontage. Soon we reach the site of Parkside Motors, a used car lot. Its sign curiously features on what was formerly a free-standing pub sign, the last remnant of its former occupant The Lansdowne. Constructed in the 1930’s by then owners Taylor Walker, it was noted for its district looking frontage, a two-storey structure constructed in redbrick, centred with a curved gable projecting from the slate roof with four dormer windows displaying asymetrically on either side. The ground floor continued with the asymmetrical theme with two sets of 3-bay windows flanking side doors on both sides of the building, whilst a pair of floor length windows flanked the entrance with its arched canopy. The building was one of the finest architectural designs in the area, yet its existence was untimely cut short in December 2014 when a fire devastated the roof and first floor, sadly the building was ultimately beyond repair and was later demolished. Its neighbour The Prince of Wales (now Atmosphere) has fared better, a beer house has existed here since 1867 when owners Michell and Aldous initially constructed it as a small two-storey redbrick structure. It was later take over by Truman’s, and in 1930 they rebuilt the site into its present form. An imposing three storey building, it was designed in the mock-tudor style that was becoming increasingly prevalent of the time, and was typical of the improved pubs scheme of the period where breweries rebuilt and enlarged existing sites, modernising facilities in the hope of attracting a higher class of customer. With its distinct timber framed frontage, asymmetrical window arrangement and trio of steeply pitched roofs with florid designs on the gables, there was a concerted efforted to make this pub look more attractive than its nearby competitors. Known locally as the Prince, it closed in 2008 and the upper floors were subsequently turned into apartments. In 2014 it was reopened as Atmosphere, a desi-pub and continues to operate as a restaurant to this day.   

 

The course of the Silk Stream (a tributary of the River Brent) runs through the area, Betjeman describes the stream as being like the Tiber of Middlesex. Towards the end of the documentary, he does a spot in Watling Park where he describes Middlesex with its cleaner air as like being in the countryside. Indeed, there is different feel as we reach the northern extremities of the Edgware Road as we reach Edgware, situtated on the borders of Greater London. Due to its convenient position during the late medieval period hostelries started to pop up, providing pilgrims with accommodation on their way to St Albans abbey. These evolved into coaching inns and by the 19^th century, many of these became licenced public houses. Although by 1968 the number of pubs in Edgware had slightly dwindled from its height earlier in the century there was still a healthy number, yet in the space of fifty years many of these establishments had closed down or been demolished. Underneath the Premier Inn lies the remnants of The White Lion, first licenced in 1751 it operated initially as a coaching inn. Later taken over by Trumans, the site was rebuilt and extended in the 19^th century, and was able to house larger gatherings of up to 300 people in their function rooms. In 1959, the Two R’s music club was established with performances every Friday evening; a number of bands performed here, including The Who. Later in October 1972, the pub introduced an over 18’s discotheque that took place on Sunday evenings. The pub was also popular with fans from the nearby Edgware Town FC, whose White Lion grounds were named after and constructed to the rear of the pub in 1939. In it later years the pub was taken over by Scottish & Newcastle, yet trade gradually ebbed away and in 1996, landlord Paul Thompson called it a day and closed the pub early the following year. Three years later it was demolished and a hotel was built on site. A few doors down is The Change of Hart, built in c. 1600 as a coaching inn called The White Hart, it is one of the oldest buildings in the area. It was constructed as a three-storey stuccoed structure, with a hipped tiled roof and wooden eaves cornices, later in the 19^th century most of the ground floor including the timbering around the access path to the horse stables was altered. Owners, Taylor Walker divided the ground floor, it featured a snug, a club room, public bar and saloon bar. Although in later years the dividing walls were taken town, the multi-sided bar counter, games room and snugs were maintained. In the 1973 it became grade II listed when well preserved timber beams dating from the 15^th century were discovered in the upper-stairs bedrooms. In 1992, the pub was renamed and it continued to operate until 2017 when owners Punch Taverns sold it to become a restaurant. Today the building remains vacant, yet the upper floors are in poor condition as in need of repair. On the corner with Whitchurch Lane is The Masons Arms, initially a Clutterbucks house, a pub has recorded on the site as early as 1803 yet by 1928 with road widening schemes taking place the original building was forcibly demolished. Its then owners Cannon Brewery (soon to be taken over by Taylor Walker) were offered by the council to rebuild the pub on the corner with High Street Edgware. Taking heed from the improved pub scheme, the new building was substantially larger in size, incorporated a curved shape with a wide and asymmetrical frontage. Two storeys high with a further dormer storey, sash windows compliment the look while tall chimneys spanned the steeply sloping roof giving off an Arts and Crafts character. The pub became a popular function for venues including live bands, Charlie Watts performed here even in 1959 with his first band the Jo Jones Seven. In later years, the pub acquired a reputation for being the roughest pub in town, brawls and various illegal activities were common here such as gold smuggling outfits, landlords illicitly filling barrels of beer with tap water and robberies, the site closed in 2012 and has since been converted into a shisha bar/ club lounge.

Towards the end of the High Street is The Beehive, originally known as the Barn and Hay Wain, it was one of two pubs in the area run by Bennetts Brewery. In 1930, the pub was rebuilt as an improved pub; built in red brick, its features were relatively plain and functional, which suggests it was built relatively quickly, in order to serve the expanding community at the time. Eight years later the brewery was acquired by Mann, Crossman & Paulin Ltd, which subsequently merged with Watney’s to become Watney Mann in 1958. In later years the pub became popular with bikers, au-pairs and Jewish youths, live music was a frequent fixture. It was also known for its rowdy behaviour, in 1993 forty people were involved in a mass brawl outside the pub, and two years later a local gang who were recently barred, raided the premises attacking both staff and customers. The site is currently called Zanzibar, an Indian restaurant/ bar; although the façade is largely unaltered, though much of the original interior fittings have been renovated and removed.  On the opposite side of the road, just before the turning with Grove Road is The Three Wishes, the newest pub to open in the area, it was established in 1993 as The Blacking Bottle when JD Wetherspoons converted the premises from a former freezer supply shop. In 2006 it was sold to Upper Deck who renamed the pub to its present name. Despite being a relatively modern pub, the original owners endeavoured to go for a traditional look with wood panelled walls, stained glass windows and bar area replete with fielded panelling and pilasters with a gantry featuring coloured-glass inserts. The pub hasn’t change much since Wetherspoons owned it, though the number of cask options have gradually dwindled since its height of six handpumps listed by London Drinker in 1998, and its popular weekly live music events often draw large crowds. It is generally perceived to be the only traditional pub left in the area. Going towards to Stonegrove, just beyond the junction with Park Road at No.76 was the site of a former pub called The Leather Bottle. Originally built in 1860, it was the second of two pubs to be run by Bennett’s (later Watney’s). During its existence, the pub had undergone a number of changes, in the early 1920’s it was rebuilt and enlarged into a two-store building. In 1965, the interior was renovated as part of Watney’s Schooner Inns projects that specialised in themed pubs. The interior was retrofitted as a Swiss chalet, replete with wood panelled walls and fittings. Many of the Schooner Inns were refits of older establishments, where the original architecture was stripped out and modern fixtures were installed whilst following a specific design theme, which varied widely from Vikings, Parisian, Hawaiian and even Pirates to name a few. During the 1970’s, the upstairs dining area was converted into a Berni Inn steakhouse, which subsequently turned into a Beefeater by the 1990’s. In 1991 a fire caused extensive damage to the interior which led to it being closed for several months. By the end of the decade, it was renamed The Bottle and Drago, yet with dwindling customers and failed attempt at selling Thai food, the owners called it a day in October 2002 and the pub was subsequently closed. At the time, residents were reportedly saddened to see the last pub in Stonegrove close, the building was subsequently sold to developers Pinecal and it was subsequently demolished and turned into flats. As the Edgware Road comes to end as we approach Brockley Hill, the A5 continues northwards towards Hertfordshire and beyond. Near the junction with Spur Road is a branch of McDonalds, where The Corner House formerly occupied. Constructed in 1937 by architects Hawe and Carter on commission by Taylor Walker, from the outset it was designed as a roadhouse pub in the mind, which had become prevalent in the expanding suburbs at the time. It had large curved windows, brown-red/ brown brick-work and Indian red/ brown tiles on the roof. The main entrance was surrounded by a stonework border.  The building was asymmetrical in appearance, with rounded edges on either side of the building, that harked back to the turrets of medieval architecture, which commonly featured in pubs earlier in the 19^th century.  Roadhouse pubs were designed for comfort, and this pub epitomised the roadhouse pub both in look and concept, with saloon and public bars, dining facilities, a large outdoor terrace and hotel rooms in the upper floors. Over the years, the pub became very popular with local community, it was also used as a reception venue for weddings, christenings and funerals. It also attracted match day crowds on their way to games at Wembley. In the 1980’s, the pub’s interior was extensively renovated and modernised, in 1994 the pub came under the ownership of Allied Domecq and two years later they announced they would be closing the pub and selling the site to McDonalds. Despite concerted efforts from locals to save the pub, the campaign failed and the pub was closed early in 1998. The loss of this pub was due to corporate restructuring rather than diminishing customer returns.

 

Through the course of the Edgware Road as it stretches nearly 9 miles between Marble Arch – Edgware, a vast number of pubs line the route; a whole manner of breweries/ companies have owned pubs along its stretch at one point in time, most notably Taylor Walker, Trumans, JD Wetherspoon, Kissane Taverns, Charrington, Cannon and Watney’s, along with local brewers like Bennett’s, Clutterbucks and Michell and Aldous. At the time when Betjeman’s documentary was filmed, most of the Edgware Road was well represented with pubs with around 35 still open at the time, yet subsequently many of these establishments have since closed, some have been converted to other uses like coffee shops, estate agents, shisha bars or restaurants, some properties remain vacant like The Red Lion, Kilburn or The Portman Arms, Maida Vale, indeed there are several extant buildings along the Edgware Road which were formerly pubs where much of the original façade has been maintained. Yet sadly a good number have been demolished for redevelopment schemes like The Upper Welsh Harp or The Surrey Arms, West Hendon which have been turned into residential apartment complexes, or in the case of The White Lion, Edgware it has become a Premier Inn. As of today, there are only 22 pubs along the Edgware Road (several of these have opened in the ensuing years) and some areas like Maida Vale are not represented at all while the likes of Burnt Oak and Edgware have seen their numbers drastically dwindle, moreover areas like Kilburn still enjoy a healthy number of pubs, and many of these were around in late 1967 when Betjeman filmed his documentary.

 

For the pubs that are still in business, they draw from a wide stretch of history, from Victorian drinking palaces to the improved roadhouse pubs of the interwar years and the modern bars that have opened in more recent decades. A good number of these establishments were originally coaching inns, which points to the former usage of the route in the days before the railways came. Notably, several of these extant pubs are grade II listed and have featured in CAMRA’s inventory of historic pubs interiors, although Betjeman barely mentions the pubs along the route, only The Crown, Cricklewood is seen and mentioned in the documentary, where he describes the pub in wistful reminiscent overtones. Although the pubs along the Edgware Road are largely in a depleted state compared to 1968, there are still a good number of establishments to visit along its entire length, from The Green Man in Paddington all the way up to The Three Wishes in Edgware. So, whenever you got time to spare, why not follow Betjeman’s example and take a tour of the Edgware Road from Marble Arch to Edgware, and visit some of the pubs along the way, perhaps you’ll be able to hear its message?

Canalside Pubs

There are a number of pubs situated alongside the Grand Union Canal, however within its southern reaches between Uxbridge – Rickmansworth, there are four pubs that straddle its course. Some of these public houses have long histories that long predate the building of the canal, operating as a coaching houses or other uses like mills for instance. With the establishment of the then Grand Junction Canal (built between 1793 – 1805), these establishments became public houses, becoming popular with passing boatmen and their families as they plied their cargo across the waterways. Keen to find out more about these historic inns, along with a few friends we undertook a 7 mile walk along the canal from Uxbridge to Rickmansworth. 

After setting off shortly before midday, within a quarter of an hour we already encountered our first pub, The Swan and Bottle. Dating from the 17th century, it used to be two pubs, known as The Olde Swan and The Leather Bottle respectively, around 1795 the two pubs were combined into one. Straddling both the River Colne and the Grand Union Canal, it is also conveniently located beside the Oxford Road, which used to be a major coaching route between the 17th – 19th centuries. A locally listed building, since the two pubs were amalgamated, there have been quite a few modifications to its two-storey structure. A long steeply pointed roof straddles the vicinity, whilst the early 20th century ground floor extensions to the front and rear of the entrance hide traces of its earlier appearance, indeed without a keen eye, its hard to deduce that this site formerly contained two pubs. As you enter inside, some of its original appearance has been maintained, such as the low hanging ceiling with the complex structure of wooden beams that staddle most of the ground-floor area, the square wall panels that enclose the bar counter which are typical of Georgian simplicity, some of the walls have sustained their original panelled wall design derived from a technique known as wainscotting, and the inglenook fireplace that dates from its earliest years. Other parts of the pub have been less fortunate, slapped with the paintbrush of modernity, patchwork flooring motifs and lashings of printed wallpaper that are clearly at odds with its origins. Despite the modestly side bar, the ground floor has a maze of several dining areas, where much of the pub is devoted to this service. To the left side of the building is the beer garden constructed by the banks of the River Colne, although of later construction, it is a charming inclusion that offers exclusive riverside views for the discerning customer, a half of Deuchars IPA (3.8%) proved to be refreshingly hoppy accompaniment as we soaked in the atmosphere of the surroundings. This pub is currently owned by Greene King, under their Chef & Brewer range, despite the availability of real ale and cask marque status, there’s little pub-like atmosphere to soak in, beneath this rampant devotion to the restaurant trade. 

 

Just before reaching Widewater Lock in South Harefield, we passed by the extensive beer garden that straddles the vicinity of The River Garden. A comparatively modern addition to the nearby canal, it was constructed as a roadhouse pub in 1937, it is typical of the era with its large two-storey structure and asymmetrical frontage that reeks of interwar modernity. From the outset this pub was designed for motorist in mind, situated along the busy A412 road which was extended between Denham and Uxbridge during this period. Space is very much on the forefront of this pub, with separate pub and dining areas, along with a private dining room installed a few years back following its extensive refurbishment.  The extensive rear garden boasts an impressive 600 seats along with playground facilities, there is also an outdoor patio with café style furniture and a steeply pointed twin wigwam structure used for functions. Formerly known as the Horse & Barge, then latterly The Bear on the Barge, in 2021 it was taken over by Heineken-owned Star Pubs & Bars and local pub operators Arusha Group. The interior is very much catered towards the contemporary and stylish, so rather predictably few original features remain underneath all this gloss. There are some remnants though, like the leaded glazed windows at the front of the building, panelled maple flooring, the double-sided fireplace or the oak panelled bar counter replete with pilasters, that can be glimpsed behind the tacky modern adornments such as leather seat panels and jade tiling. The emphasis here is heavily reliant on dining, which has been more of the case since its revamp; and in recent years, cask ale options have been removed, thus making the site even further removed from what could be considered a typical pub. This place is popular with families, local organisations and functions, on the day of our visit it was conveniently well filled out with punters as thump pounding contemporary pop music blared out on the speakers. 

Just under two miles we found ourselves in the conservation area of Coppermill Lock that resides near the Metropolitan Green Belt and Colne Valley Park; until the 20th century, several mills operated in the area due to its proximity with the River Colne.  In 1974, the London Borough of Hillingdon and Three Rivers District Council jointly established a small conservation area which lay within the boundaries of both authorities. These included the Fisheries Public House, Fisheries Cottages, Black Jack’s Mill and several ex-industrial buildings. We visited The Coy Carp, formerly known as the Fisheries; situated between the Frays River and the Grand Junction Canal, it was constructed in the early-mid 19th century and was initially operated as a hotel, where it benefitted from the local angling due to the area’s propensity of lakes, the River Colne and the manmade Frays River. A large two storey structure, it a six-bay house with centrally positioned doorway, with a hipped roof and two prominent chimneys positioned on both sides, typical of the era. A combination of sash windows, small and large casement windows and dormer windows complements towards its appearance, while a single storey building runs along the towpath. Despite appearances, much of the original interior has been mostly gutted and turned into a three-level split structure that somewhat resembles a Swiss chalet. Currently owned by Vintage Inns, today this place is very much catered towards the dining trade, and there is little trace that this building was once a hotel. The central bar counter resides by a stonework floor, by the looks of the structure it appears to be a later 20th century construction although much alteration has taken place to bring up to contemporary tastes. Meanwhile the area immediately to the right of the bar is bedecked with wooden supports and low hanging timber frame ceiling, which suggests that this was original height of the ground floor before the site was extensively renovated. Access to the pub is currently via a bridge that straddles the river, linking to the rear of the property, although there is a fire-access door on the canal side. Cask ale options are available here with two regular ales and one guest, though only London Pride (4.1%) was available at the time of our visit. To the left of the building is the outdoor patio which is divided into two areas, a large one situated by the rear of the outbuildings and a smaller patio immediately next to the entrance. A mixture of stonework and lawn gives the patio a refined appearance which is complemented by rattan furniture and string lights. Despite its relatively remote location, on the day of our visit, it was filled to the rafters with punters; which is quite understandable given its convenient position located between several wetland areas, rivers and long-distance walking trails including the Grand Union Canal Walk, Hillingdon Trail, Colne Valley Trail, the South Bucks Way and the London Loop.  

Soon we crossed the county border in Hertfordshire and for the next 2½ miles there was an endless of procession of sedentary narrowboats, lakes, fields and skeletal remnants of industry. We ended our walk as we reached Batchworth Lock, where the Rivers Colne and Chess meet up with the canal in a sprawling maze of wetlands. This is also the home of the Batchwork Canal Centre, headquarters of the Rickmansworth Waterways Trust which aims to both conserve and promote the heritage of the area’s waterways. Just over the road bridge is the White Bear, situated on the intersection between Harefield and London Road respectively. One of the area’s oldest pubs, it formerly served as a coaching inn as it was conveniently located near the turnpike on the nearby London Road, and at one time it was among several pubs in the local area run by local brewers, Salters. In 1913, under the ownership of Edith and Thomas Mayo, the pub was demolished and entirely rebuilt, the small riverside inn was turned into a sprawling u-shaped two storey structure, with exposed brickwork on the ground floor replete with leaded lights; while the upper floors are timber framed with a central bay window that helps give the frontage an asymmetrical appearance, which is complemented by a u-shaped pitched roof structure used to increase the surface area along with a triptych of elaborate four-chimney pot structures that help give the place more height. The exterior is rather typical of the Arts and Crafts Movement, an architectural style that was popular during the late 19th and early 20th century. Despite the relatively large size of the pub, conversely the interior is rather small and narrow; following much of its over u-shaped layout. While the bar-counter and bar-back have been modernised with slats of hardwood, while the bay windows, door frames, wall mouldings and teak/maple panelled floor are original Edwardian fixtures. Formerly a free house, it has since been taken over by Greene King and has been turned into a Desi-Pub offering traditional Indian fare which has built a local reputation, moreover under their current owners, two additional dining areas have been constructed by the rear and front of the building, in order to increase the overall seating size. To the left of the building is a large canal-side patio with a number of tables, allowing punters to dine al-fresco and absorb sites of the nearby river and canal. Although cask is available at this pub, since the take-over by Greene King, the selection has been restricted to their own in-house offerings, although I was readily keen to sup up some Abbot Ale (5%) which proved to be a richly warming, malty and fruity concoction, bringing an appropriate valedictory note to our extensive walk along the canal. 

Micropubs in Metroland

In recent years there has been a boom in Micropubs across the UK, as of 2024 there were over 500 sites registered across the UK. These small independent establishments offer basic facilities that include snacks, bottle/ can selections and growlers for take-away drinks. Over the past few years, there has been a boom in micropubs opening around Hertfordshire, giving customers the chance to try beers, ciders and perries from small-scale independent producers. Along the Watford branch of the Metropolitan line, there are a number of micropubs along each stop between Rickmansworth and Watford. As it was the centenary year of the branch-line, I thought it would it be a good opportunity not only to ride this route, but also to visit the micropubs along the way.

The first stop on the mini-tour was Wishful Drinking in Rickmansworth; launched in 2019, it is a medium-sized setup with a two-step floor layout, tall chairs and globe lamps on most tables. Although there is no cask available here, it has up to 8 beers and 6 ciders on keg. Moreover, they also function as a bottle shop, offering an extensive range of Belgian and German beers, along with a selection of releases from the more locally based Tring Brewery. They also sell snacks including fresh Pork Scratchings and snacking cheese, its also dog-friendly. Moreover, they hold regular events including quizzes, beer tastings and themed evenings. There were only Pale beers available that day, so I settled for Big Bad Shoe (5.7%), a New England style IPA with bold fruity tropical flavours, laced with a mixture of US hops including Citra, Amarillo and Sabro. The hops make for much of the flavour profile, giving a bitter and grassy undertone. After a lengthy Canalside walk we visited Anchor Tap & Bottle in Croxley, a short walk from the tube station, on the site of a former estate agents, it opened in December 2019, yet due to subsequent lockdown restrictions they operated as a take-away and delivery service, notably selling beer tasting kits to customers. The building is a long one-room bar, they maintain the nautical theme with gunmetal-grey walls and chain-lights, splashes of oak panels are interspersed throughout the room, giving the décor an uplift; there are a mixture of high and low tables along with bar stools, and the pint glasses are notably labelled with their anchor logo. Since introducing indoor service, they have scaled back on their selection of bottles/ cans, although drinks are still available to take-away. A snack tower is curiously sited in the middle of the room, it is also dog and child friendly; moreover, there are fortnightly quiz nights (on Tuesdays), Cheese and Wine evenings, live music and events including cocktail nights and tasting sessions. There’s a good selection of wines and spirits to choose from, along with ten beers on keg and two on cask (both from Tring). I sampled some Tea Kettle Stout (5.2%), it was smooth and chocolaty, with potent coffee and roasted malty flavours; a notable bitterness dominated the background which was offset by a creamy mouthfeel, whilst the strength helped give it depth and warmth. Darkness was setting in when we alighted at our terminus, Two Trees Micro in Watford. Launched in March 2022, it is by very definition a micro-pub, with room for only five tables. A favourite with locals and frequently busy, particularly with football on Watford FC match days at nearby Vicarage Road, they boast multiple awards including Watford Observer Pub of the Year 2022 and CAMRA Watford & District Pub of the Year 2023 respectively. Moreover, they also organise tap-takeovers, beer tasting evenings, quizzes (fortnightly on Thursdays) and themed events, a recent innovation, recent examples include a Burns Night Scottish Beer Festival and a Easter Dark Ales event. There was a small bottle/ can selection behind the bar, and an extensive range of bar snacks. In addition to four keg taps, they sell draught cider and up to four beers on cask, they always endeavour to sell at least one bitter, dark and pale beer depending on stocks. After much deliberation, I went for Extra Shiny Beer (4.5%), an old-school ESB with an amber red hue and off-white head; replete with roasted malt flavours with a fruity tanginess, some spiciness and a floral hoppy bitterness from the use of East Kent Goldings; the malt bill included dark malts and a hint of rye. 

During my journey I visited a fascinating array of micropubs, that reflect a growing culture within Hertfordshire of small independent pubs, devoid of restaurant facilities and large national brands, that dominate most pubs in the county. Each location had its own unique characteristics and features that helped made it stand out. Moreover, these places were no frills establishments where the focus was directly centred on beer, cider and perry, celebrating and promoting the produce of small-scale brewers who’d normally find it very difficult to get their beers sold in pubs, since a large number are owned by PubCo’s where the choice is usually restricted. It is great to see the growing spread of micropubs, as it also helps the independent brewing sector to thrive and increase their profits, which is good news for the brewing industry and a boon for the pub sector, especially pertinent in these difficult financial times when pubs are struggling to cope. These three pubs alone are representative of this burgeoning industry; and in the remoteness and quiet of Metroland, the lure of micropubs attracted people in their droves, back to nature, back to the simple honest pint.   

 

The Lost Pubs of Edgware

If you walk down the High Street in Edgware today, you’d be hard pressed for find any pubs, indeed the only ‘traditional’ pub operating in the town centre is The Three Wishes, which ironically is one of the newest, first opened in 1993 by Wetherspoons, it was orignally called The Blacking Bottle at the time, it has since gone through several owners before acquiring its present name in 2006, operating today as a free-house. Meanwhile two further pubs have been converted into bars/ restaurants, The Beehive has become Zanzi-Bar, an Indian restaurant/ bar; whilst The Mason’s Arms has turned into Luna Lounge (Clubul Romanesc), following the sale of the pub in 2012. Going out of town, towards the area that once housed the sleepy hamlet of Upper Hale, both The Jolly Badger (Green Man) and The Railway Tavern are still in business and continue to do good trade. Yet if you look around Edgware, you’ll also find a number of remnants of former pubs, which once populated the area. For instance, The Change of Hart lies vacant since it closed in 2020 as does the nearby Railway Hotel on Station Road, which has remained a derelict ruin since closing in 2006; going towards the outskirts of town there are former pubs that have been converted into other uses, The Edge of Town on Station Road has become a Polish supermarket since it closed in 2012, whilst The Sparrow on Broadfields Avenue also closed the same year and was later converted into a Barnardo’s and Tesco Express two years later. Incredibly, over a hundred years ago there were around twelve pubs operating in the area as of 1914; yet in the space of a century, due to the combination of local redevelopment projects, forced closures by PubCo’s or the selling of failing businesses, the number of pubs in this area has gradually dwindled. In order reach an understanding of what we have lost, we need to explore Edgware’s extensive pub heritage in detail.

 

The George

One of the oldest inns in the area, it was built c.1454 for travellers journeying through Watling Street. Many of the oak beams and pillars allegedly came from old ship’s timbers, and the oak door leading to the saloon bar was carved by hand and reputed to date from the 11^th century, it was also used a house of rest for soldiers during the Wars of the Roses, Nell Gwynne reportedly once stayed here and highwayman Dick Turpin used it as a haunt. By the 17^th century, the surrounding high street had expanded and become increasingly commercialised, where it featured a blacksmiths, butchers, tailors, colliers, opticians and a weekly fayre held every Thursday. Henry Hayley, who ran the inn during this time also operated a brewery, and the site had expanded to include four buildings enclosing a courtyard, a long barn stood facing a road, whilst to the back of the site consisted of a pond, outhouses, brewhouses, and an orchard. During the 19^th century, the pub was rebuilt with a new brickwork structure, consisting of an amalgamation of two storey buildings with gabled ends, separated by two bays, and from 1834 onwards it was referred to as a public house, latterly the courtyard was covered in the early 20th century and turned into a dance hall. The pub was run during this period by Cannon Brewery who also owned three other pubs on the high street namely The White Lion, The Boot and The Masons Arms, along with a further two on the village outskirts, The Hall Arms in Church Lane and The Green Man in Hale Lane respectively. In 1930, the brewery was taken over by Taylor Walker, around this time road widening schemes on the High Street and Whitchurch Lane were on the cards and the council planned to demolish the pub along with The Masons Arms and the Chandos Arms respectively. News of its closure came as a shock to local residents, with a reporter at the time stating “for many years, it was the main place, we might saw the only place in Edgware for dinners, dances, whist drives, meetings or other such functions.” [1]  The council offered the licensees the opportunity to transfer of their licence to a new premises in Kingsbury, however the locals were outraged by this decision and a petition signed by 670 people was organised, opposing this transfer. They argued that The George was not merely a public house, but an institution as many functions were held there, and there was nowhere else to hold them. Ultimately their efforts failed, and the pub closed early in 1931, the building was subsequently demolished. The new George Inn was later built in Kingsbury, and continues to operate to this day.

 

The Boot

Situated on the junction between the High Street and Church Lane (Station Road), it was first recorded in 1753; the pub was smaller than other public houses in the area, it was remarked that the bars were extremely small, and the roof was so low that a person wearing a hat could hardly stand upright, it also offered no accommodation for travellers. In an article from Country Life Magazine from 1903, it is described as “a delightful red brick building with a green trellis upon its front, and stands up upon the right side of the street as you look towards St Albans.”[2]  The pub was built near the Edgware lockup, a cage used for confining prisoners prior to their court hearings. Run by Salter & Co then Cannon Brewery, the pub also went by several names including The Boot and Spur, The Jack Boot and The Black Boot. By 1913, three other pubs were sited on the same side of the street. These included The Red Lion, The King’s Arms and The Surrey Arms, the latter which opened the same year. All three pubs were larger in size and were deemed to have better facilities and accommodation than the Boot. The following year, the pub licence was reviewed by the local justices who presented their case to the Middlesex Licencing Committee, as they were keen to close the pub as there were too many pubs operating in the area at the time. They argued “the house was 31 yards from fully-licensed house, 'The Red Lion,' the same side of the road, and about yards from a commodious, well-built, and fairly new beer house called “The Surrey Arms.” also the same side of the road. the oilier direction, 220 yards away, was The King’s Arms,” another fully-licensed house. All of these three houses wore very superior accommodation to The Boot.”[3]  The committee argued that at the side of the house, there were two serving windows where customers were served drinks. They stated this was undesirable, as this often led to obstruction of traffic from the nearby road, coupled with the fact that the pub was relatively small in size compared to its neighbouring public houses. Cecil Whitley, who represented the owners of the pub in the hearing, stated it would be seriously disputed that the accommodation was poor, it was also noted that the pub had a sizeable amount of trade. The magistrate’s decision was overturned due to lack of evidence, they appealed this decision the following year, and this was again overturned, and the committee, upheld their decision to renew the pub’s licence. For the next 50 years, the pub continued to trade, despite the road widening schemes of the 1930’s which saw many of its nearby competitors bite the dust. Unfortunately, by 1965, the game was up and the pub subsequently closed; the building was soon demolished and a shopping parade was built in its place. Fittingly in memory of its former occupant, it was named Boot Parade, a poignant reminder to the past.

The Chandos Arms

The original incarnation of the Chandos Arms was situated on the High Street. An inn had reportedly stood on this site since the 11^th century thus making it one of the oldest in the country; around 1600 it was rebuilt in its final form as a coaching inn, it was described by L. Salmon as “a beautiful old house with panelled passages, crooked windows with small panes, and a huge lamp and swinging sign, painted with the Chandos Arms, hanging out over the street upon a great crossway beam and post of timber.” Formerly known as the Crane, allegedly it was once owned by the Losse family (one time owners of the Cannons estate), and one of its most notable architectural features was its marble fronted fireplace which was donated from the estate when the mansion was demolished in 1747. During the 18th century, its notable regulars included the composer George Fredrich Handel (who worked at nearby Cannons as resident composer between 1717-1719) whom frequently visited the Tavern during this period; Dick Turpin frequented this establishment residing in the back room where he could quickly escape through the courtyard when the authorities came knocking, and it was regularly visited by the Duke of Chandos and his friends, it was even rumoured that there was a secret tunnel linking the inn with the grand house. Due to its close connection with Chandos, the pub was renamed The Chandos Arms, and bared their coat of arms over the pub sign; which was a common feature in pubs at the time in order for travellers to identify the location in reference to the nearby gentry, particularly pertinent since the majority of the population were illiterate. In addition to it hotel facilities the inn was used for other uses, during the 19^th century it was used a location for hustings and polling during elections, members of the Edgware Congregational Church held services in the upper rooms and the building was also used as courthouse for the local magistrates, who would hold proceedings for minor offences every Thursday morning, this lasted until 1913 when Hendon Courthouse was constructed; and in 1896, a firehouse was constructed to the back of the building, with a volunteer force of ten firemen. Later, in February 1927, George Cheshire (then landlord of the pub) applied for the provisional removal of his licence and to transfer it to a new site on Colindale Avenue, due to the congestion of pubs in the Edgware area. The following year the local authorities approved his request, and by 1937, construction of the new pub was completed, it was named The New Chandos in reflection of its status. It quickly became popular with workers from the nearby factories, and following a brief period of closure, it reopened in 2013, under its original name. The pub continues to operate, and remains a popular fixture with locals, holding regular live music events and has even been used as a filming location in TV shows. Meanwhile, the original Chandos Arms was demolished, during the 1930’s it was used as a motor coach station, and today a branch of Lidl resides over the former site.

The Change of Hart

Originally known at the White Hart, a building has stood on this site since the 15^th century. Around c.1600, it was rebuilt as a coaching inn, to serve the passing traffic, which had become increasingly lucrative. It was constructed as a three-storey stuccoed structure, with a hipped tiled roof and wooden eaves cornices.[4] Much of the ground floor was altered during the Victorian era, though traces of its original architecture were maintained, including the timbering around the drive-through, which was formerly utilized as a passage way for horses towards the stables. The pub is unique in the area, for being the only one with architecture dating back pre 20^th century, since nearly all of the other surviving pub buildings in the High Street were rebuilt during the early 1930’s. During much of the 20^th century, it was run by Taylor Walker, and it featured four separate serving areas, it also featured a snug, a club room and a large beer garden. The divides between the separate areas were later taken down, although many its former hallmarks including the multi-sided bar counter were maintained, along with its games room at the rear which featured a pool table; yet despite it appearing large in size, due it’s layout it would often get cramped and crowded during busy times. In 1972, well preserved 15th century timber beams were located in a bedroom and in the kitchen attic, thus proving that the original building was originally a late medieval construction, though the coachyard entrance and hotel structure however were of later construction. This discovery led the site to be listed a year later on 8^th January 1973. For many years the pub was known as The White Hart, yet in 1992 it was renamed The Change of Hart; during this period the pub served several real ales including Greene King IPA (3.6%), Hart Bitter (?) and Tetley Bitter (3.6%), it also offered house beer at promotional prices and home cooked food. By the 2000’s, the pub had become part of the Punch Taverns chain, it was sold off and closed in November 2017 and was converted into Dolce, an Italian restaurant, which too closed in 2020. Today the building remains vacant, and despite it’s listed status, the upper floors are in poor condition after unauthorised works. Last April, enforcement notices were issued, that required a reversal of the unlawful changes to the exterior and interior fixtures of the site.

 

The White Lion

The southernmost pub in the high street, located only a few yards from the bridge that once crossed over the Edgware Brook. It was first licenced in 1751, and it operated as a coaching inn, much like its nearby competitors in the area. For much of its existence it was owned by Trumans, the site was initially modest in size, but in the early 20^th century the site was largely rebuilt and enlarged, which allowed it hold large gatherings for groups like the Edgware Rotarians to the staff at the local Sainsbury’s store. Some of the original features were maintained, included the alleged room where Dick Turpin stayed during his trips to the inn, the pub also featured a number of wall displays dedicated the area’s connection with the highwayman. Moreover, the pub held regular events including a weekly Jazz club, held every Sunday night and it was also popular with fans of the nearby Edgware Town FC, as the grounds incidentally backed onto pub. The club was established in 1939, the grounds was named The White Lion in reference to its nearby public house, even its official badge bared the emblem. The football grounds were also leased by Trumans who ran the nearby pub, in 1987 the club took Trumans to court when the brewery failed to renew their lease, as they intended to sell the land for redevelopment. In 1958, the pub started organising regular live music gigs, when The Two R’s Club established residency at the venue, with performances every Friday evening; a number of bands performed here, including The Who. Later in October 1972, the pub introduced an over 18’s discotheque that took place on Sunday evenings. The pub was later owned by Scottish and Newcastle, yet trade gradually ebbed away from the pub, and in 1996 the pub chain announced that the site will be sold and demolished. The pub’s final landlord Paul Thompson stated at the time “look there’s simply no trade here, barely anyone comes here, because this is a depressing place. People want bright places like the new pubs in Harrow town centre. Pubs like these have had their day.”[5] The pub closed the following year, and in 2000 it was demolished, a Premier Inn was later constructed on the site. In 2008, the White Lion ground at Edgware FC closed following the end of the 2007-8 season, when their main financial backers revoked funding. The freehold was bought out by Barrett Homes and turned into a residential development named Zodiac Close.  

The Leather Bottle

Sited north of the High Street in Stonegrove, it was built in 1860. One of two of pubs in Edgware run by Bennett’s and subsequently Mann, Crossmann & Paulin, during its 142 year existence the pub went through a number of changes, in the early 1920’s it was entirely rebuilt and enlarged into a two storey building. In 1965, then owners Watney’s renovated the pub as part of their Schooner Inns project, the interior was transformed to resemble a Swiss chalet, replete with wood panelled walls and fittings. Retrowow describes the Schooner Inns initiative as “these were a new concept in drinking places that aimed to have a wider appeal beyond the traditional pub drinker. They usually had restaurants and the standard was consistent.”[6] Many of the Schooner inns were refits of older pubs, much of the original architecture was often stripped out and replaced with modern fittings. They were often designed as themed pubs which had become prevalent around time. Themes varied widely from Vikings, Parisian, Naval, Hawaiian, Pirates and even Psychedelia. Following its refit, the pub’s interior featured in a number of films including ‘A Clockwork Orange’ (1971) during the scene where Alex and his Droogs have a drink at the fictional Duke of New York and ‘Assassin’ (1973), where it was used for interiors for the wedding reception scenes, the nearby Railway Hotel, was used for exteriors, to represent the wedding venue. During the 1970’s, the upstairs dining area was converted into a Berni Inn steakhouse, which subsequently turned into a Beefeater by the 1990’s. In May 1991, disaster struck when a major fire ripped through the pub, firefighters managed to prevent the building from being burnt to the ground, though the pub remain closed for several months. By the end of the decade it was called The Bottle and Dragon, yet dwindling customer numbers and an attempt at serving Thai food fell on deaf ears, and in October 2002 the pub closed. Bob Hallett, who worked at the pub in 1971, noted at time, "it's rather sad. It didn't take off as a pub-cum-Thai restaurant and it was hard to justify keeping it open for one or two regulars."[7] Residents were reportedly saddened to see the last pub in Stonegrove close, the building was subsequently sold to developers Pinecal and it was soon demolished and turned into flats.

 

The Corner House

Going further up the road towards Canons Corner, was a pub that was designed for the coming of the motorways. Following the construction of the A5088 (latterly the A41) in 1922, there were calls for a new public house to serve the nearby junction between Edgware Way and Stonegrove. After years fof wrangling, the pub opened it doors in 1937, constructed by Dawe & Carter, it was designed as a roadhouse style pub that were commonplace at the time. It had notably had large curved windows, brown-red/ brown brick-work and Indian red/ brown tiles on the roof. The main entrance was surrounded by a stonework border.  The building was symmetrical in appearance, with rounded edges on either side of the building, that harked back to the turrets of medieval architecture, which commonly featured in pubs during the 19^th century.  Roadhouse pubs were designed for comfort in mind, David W. Gutzke noted “Roadhouse promoters wanted to project an image of luxury as much as comfort in a recreational centre replete with the most modern technology and expensive conveniences, especially in the accommodation rooms.”[8] Indeed it was reported by Hendon & Finchley Times at the time of the pub’s opening that had a sweeping drive that could accommodate up to 60 cars, and the interior was last word in comfort, with green leather furnishings in the lounge and saloon bars, along with a wide open-air terrace for drinking on warmer days.[9] Basil Oliver once stated in his book 'The Renaissance of the British Public House', “the Corner House, is a most ably planned house with large curbed window ends to the public and saloon bars. These must be very attractive from the inside. Carried up for bedrooms above with rounded roofs over, they certainly add to the attractiveness of the cleverly contrived main elevation.”[10] This pub epitomised the roadhouse pub both in look and concept. Over the years it became a popular venue with local community, it was also used as a reception venue for weddings, christenings and funerals. In the 1980’s, the pub’s interior was extensively renovated and modernised, the following decade the pub came under the ownership of Allied Domecq, as a result of a merger between Allied Lyons and Pedro Domecq S.A. in 1994. Two years later, they announced that they would be selling the site and converting the building into a McDonald's drive-in restaurant, a similar fate had already befallen the Red Lion in nearby Borehamwood. The regulars were up in arms about this decision, and initiated a campaign to save the pub. The owners bluntly stated at the time “we are constantly reviewing our estate, at the end of the day we are a commercial organisation and have to ensure our company is profitable.” Despite the locals efforts to save the pub, the campaign failed to have an effect, and the pub was closed and sold off to McDonald's early in 1998.  The loss of this pub was due to corporate restructuring rather that diminishing customer returns, which is a factor that has affected a vast number of pubs around the country. Roger Protz notes that by this time a quarter of all pubs in the UK were owned by PubCo’s[11]. This included several in Edgware, and over the next fifteen years all of these pubs would be closed, sold off or demolished by their respective PubCo owners.

The Sparrow Hawk

Situated on the outskirts of Edgware, it was opened in 1957 by Whitbread & Co, to serve the relatively new Broadfields estate, which was initiated in 1923 following the sale of 1,110 acres of land by Sergeant Cox; construction began in 1927 with Broadfields Avenue, further development came in earnest in 1936, when John Laing’s commenced construction of their Edgware estate, they built a substantial number of houses and roads before the Green Belt halted their plans in 1948. The pub’s name commemorated Ella, Countess of Salisbury, whom during the 12^th century gifted her son Nicholas and new wife the manor of Edgware, in return for an annual gift of one sparrowhawk. From the outset, modernism was on the cards, the interior had tiled flooring with a distinct diamond pattern design, this surrounded a long-curved L-shaped bar counter, pulldown pedant lights lined the vicinity of the building, and Bauhaus armchairs help gave place a continental and contemporary feel, this was in stark departure to the many of the older prewar pubs in the area. The venue quickly became a popular haunt for local groups who held regular meetings there, organisations such as the Rotary Club, the Edgware Round Table, The First London Toastmasters Club, the North London Breakers Club and the Young Conservatives held meetings there, furthermore until 1964, the local Catholic community held services at the pub, until their new church, St Matthias Roman Catholic Church, opened in June 1964. By the 1960’s, the pub started organising regular Jazz gigs, this proved popular with the punters and they branched out into holding Rockabilly evenings, Blues, Prog Rock and friends of the earth benefit concerts, the pub gradually became a well-known venue for live music, at one time it was even dubbed the centre of the Rockabilly scene in North London. The pub also organised events, including the annual Miss Sparrowhawk beauty competition and Whitbread’s Search for a Star, a talent contest with heats taking place in several Whitbread pubs across London. The pub was additionally notable for promoting up and coming talent, The Meteors played their first gig here on 25^th July 1980. In later years, the pub was subsequently renamed as the Glengall Park and the Sparrow finally. In 2010 it was announced that the pub will be closed and sold, it was put on sale for £1.3 million pounds through AC&G, it quickly attracted a range of buyers including community groups, residential developers and convenience stores. The pub closed in April 2012, and the site was eventually split three ways, with Baranardo’s and Tesco occupying the ground floor, and residential flats inhabiting the upper floors. The original building remains in-tact, yet none of the original interiors from it’s 55-year existence as a pub remain, following it’s closure.

The Edge of Town

One of two pub’s to open on Station Road during the 20^th century, it opened in 1992 on the site of a former shop unit. Operating as a free-house from the start, the pub offered several real ale options. In the December 1992 issue of London Drinker, it was reported that they were serving Tetley Bitter (3.7%) and Worthington’s Best Bitter (3.6%) on cask, they also held a monthly beer festival with up to 10 cask beers.[12] By 1995, the pub was reportedly serving up to as many as 6 cask ales. Latterly, the pub was taken over by Greene King, it ran weekly karaoke and disco events every Saturday, along with regular live football during the weekends, it also became popular with the local Irish community. Ultimately, the pub closed in October 2012, and subsequently returned back to its former usage as a shop, ironically as a Polish supermarket.

 

The Railway Hotel

One of the most well known and much missed of Edgware’s pubs. In 1929, with road widening schemes taking place around the town centre, A-roads opening up which improving links to towns across Middlesex, and new roads being built around the emerging residential suburbs. The opportunity was rife for a new roadhouse style pub to cash in on the boom in motor transport. In October that year, Truman’s submitted plans for their new pub in Edgware and these were quickly approved the following month. A hotel had already resided on Church Lane since 1874, built near Edgware railway station, the terminus of the branch line between Edgware – Finsbury Park. The brewery brought out the site and employed their in-house architects A.E. Sewell to construct a new building in its place, which was completed in 1931, the same year Church Lane was renamed to Station Road. Designed in the Tudorbethan style (or Mock Tudor for shot) which was inherently popular at the time. An imposing three-storey structure, the building featured a number of design features that were synonymous with this style, which included half timbered elevations to the upper floors, a steeply pitched tiled roof, a set of six tall chimney stacks in the centre with ornate brick-work with a three lined chimney stack to its adjacent right and two smaller chimney stacks to the rear, carved wooden under the eaves, an asymmetrical façade with six casement windows of varying size on the first floor, and further a three casement windows on the 2^nd, with two projecting from the roof and notably the off-sales building on the right was linked by a tiled archway with timber uprights, that bared the name of the building, whilst the interior was similarly ornate with wooden panelling and four centred arched fireplaces. Basil Oliver wrote in 1934, "it a technically perfect example of revived quasi-timber-fronted construction, well to the high standard Messrs. Liberty and Co.'s building of a similar Great Marlborough Street, but far too mannered for A.D. 1932. when it was completed.”[13] The pub was a notable example of the improved public house, as Dermot Kennedy notes an “initiative to build bigger, better and fewer, and although quite a few were built in city centres most found their way into the new suburbs where there was space to create dramatic, streamlined public houses for the modern world.”[14] This was part of a concerted effort at the time to improve the range of facilities that a pub could offer to the customer, and in the case of the Railway Hotel, this also included on the 1^st floor, an luncheon room that included a carvery and a masonic lodge. Through the years, it became a popular venue for parties, wedding receptions and various clubs including The Lotus Car Club, Hendon Darts League and the London Toastmasters Club who held their first dinner there in January 1960. It also became utilized as a filming location, appearing extensively in the film ‘Assassin’ (1973) where it was used for exterior shots in the wedding reception scenes, it also featured in the background during the sequence where Matthew (Mike Pratt) and Luke (Frank Duncan) have a meal at the T-Bone restaurant situated opposite the Railway Hotel. Later, Trumans sold the pub to Grand Metropolitan, whom later sold it onto Scottish and Newcastle. In the early 1990’s it was run as a carvery restaurant called County Carvery, which was allegedly indifferent in quality. Following a failed health and safety inspection, the pub unexpectedly closed in May 2006, and has remained vacant ever since. The building was Grade II listed in 2003 which ensured its continued survival, however due to successive owners the place has been allowed to fall into a derelict condition. In 2013 the building was added to Historic England’s Heritage at Risk register, following repeated incidents of vandalism and fires. Notably, on the 11th July 2016, a fire swept through the building, destroying much of the original interior fittings in the ground floor area. A further fire in 2018 caused more damage. In January 2019, more than 2000 people signed a petition calling on Barnet Council and Historic England to preserve the 1930’s mock tudor building; campaigner Mark Amies stated “the Railway is a part of the Edgware landscape that people love dearly, but it is being allowed to fall to pieces.” [15] For several years Amies has continued to campaign for the preservation of the building and has frequently been vocal about its ongoing issues. In May 2023, Barnet Council agreed to buy the landmark building and preserve it as part of the town centre’s redevelopment. A compulsory purchase order was placed, after Historic England cited fears that the building could potentially suffer from irreparable damage.

The range of pubs around Edgware paint an illustrious picture and provides a window into its distant past. From the days when the area was little more than a village, a cluster of coaching inns including The George, The White Hart, The Barn and Hay Wain (The Beehive), The Chandos Arms and The White Lion for instance, opened up in order to cash on the growing coaching trade, indeed by 1791 three coaches passed daily through the area, which rose up to nine (on weekdays) by 1839, these inns were essential in bringing trade into the area. The coming of the railways with the opening of the station in 1867 failed to have a dent on the area’s pub trade, by this time many of the former coaching inns had increasingly converted over to becoming public houses, and new sites appeared on the scene with the likes of The Crystal Palace, The King's Arms, The Red Lion, The Jolly Dealers and The Surrey Arms for instance. By 1914, the number of public houses had plateaued which coerced the local authorities into action and close down some of the properties, although their efforts to revoke the licence of the Boot had been overturned twice, yet by 1929 with road widening schemes taking place their efforts prevailed, pubs including The Chandos Arms and The George were offered new premises in other areas, whilst The Beehive and the Masons Arms were rebuilt and re-sited. Around this time roadhouse and improved pubs were coming on the scene with the increase in motorised transport, and during the 1930’s places like The Railway Hotel and the Corner House emerged, whilst The Green Man was renovated and extensively rebuilt for the new age of the roadhouse pub. After the war, with new residential developments (such as the Broadfields estate) developing, there was a need to build pubs to serve these areas, and the likes of The Sparrow Hawk was constructed. Redevelopment projects also saw the likes of The Crystal Palace closing in 1939, and the Boot in 1965 respectively. Alas the rot set in following the Beer Orders Act of 1989 which restricted the Big Six brewers from owning more than 2000 pubs apiece, they circumnavigated this by merging with other companies, often with non-brewing connections. The majority of pubs across Edgware were owned by these emerging PubCo’s, and from the mid 1990’s onwards they were gradually closed down, The White Lion closed in 1997 and subsequently demolished, and the following year The Corner House was sold off to McDonald’s. In 2002, it’s neighbouring pub The Leather Bottle was also sold, demolished and turned into flats, meanwhile The Railway Hotel bit the dust in 2006, whilst the Mason’s Arms continued to linger on until 2012 when it was sold to a new operator, whilst both the Beehive and the Change of Hart were converted into restaurants, even newer pubs haven’t fare much better, with both The Sparrow and The Edge of Town closing in 2012, then subsequently turned into commercial properties. Edgware is a veritable graveyard of pubs, there are decaying ruins like The Railway Hotel and The Change of Hart that appear in a sorry state after years of dereliction, whilst others like The Masons Arms, The Beehive, The Corner House, The Edge of Town and The Sparrow still exist as structures, but have been converted to other uses. Then there are public houses that have been demolished and buried under new developments like the Premier Inn that looms over the buried remains of The White Lion, or Boot Parade which once resided The Boot. All of these pubs are part of the area’s extensive heritage, and each loss knocks another chunk out of of the area's past. Due to the perilous situation, there have been concerted efforts over recent years to preserve and revive some of Edgware’s former pubs, hopefully this campaigning will ensue and ultimately prevail, and once again restore the area’s long forgotten reputation as a town of many interesting pubs.

List of References 

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[1] 'Changes in Edgware: Hotel which was visited by Nell Gwynne', Hendon & Finchley Times, 14^th March 1930.

[2] ‘Edgware and Handel’, L. Salmon, Country Life Magazine, 23^rd May 1903.

[3] ‘Middlesex Licencing Committee Second Attempt to Close the Boot’ Hendon & Finchley Times, 2^nd July 1915.

[4] ‘FormerWhite Hart Hotel, High Street, Edgware HA8 – Harrow’, Historic England.

[5] ‘Is This Last Orders for the Traditional Boozer?’,  David Brown, Harrow Observer, 1^st August 1996.

[6] ‘WatneysPubs in the 50s, 60s and 70s’, Retrowow.

[7] ‘Clockwork' pub to be converted’, Barnet Borough Times, 23^rd October 2002.

[8] ‘ImprovedPubs and Road Houses: Rivals for Public Affection in Interwar England’ by DavidW. Gutzke, Brewery History Society, Issue 119, Summer 2005.

[9] ‘New Licenced House’, Hendon & Finchley Times, 30^th July 1937.

[10] ‘The Renaissance of the British Public House’ by Basil Oliver, Faber & Faber, 1947.

[11] ‘Tied hand and foot: the sad and sorry saga of the rise of Britain's giant 'pubcos' by Roger Protz, Protz on Beer, 27^th December 2014.

[12] London Drinker, Vol 14, No.11, December 1992, pg.35.

[13] ‘Model Public Houses’ Hendon & Finchley Times, 11^th May 1934.

[14] ‘Art Deco Pubs in the UK, Part 1: Beside the Sea’, Dermot Kennedy, Pub Gallery, 18^th April 2024.

[15] ‘Fears for future of fire-damaged former Barnet pub’, by Simon Allin, Barnet Borough Times, 26^th January 2019.