In his 1968 documentary ‘Marble
Arch to Edgware’ poet John Betjeman travelled along the entire length of
Edgware Road, whilst railing against the clean lines of postwar modernity and
mournfully reminiscing about the loss of its once bucolic and charming landscape.
The Edgware Road follows the course of Watling Street, a Roman road that
stretched from Dover to Wroexter. The modern Edgware Road dates from 1811, when
Thomas Telford modernised the route from London – Holyhead, forming the basis
of the current A5 trunk road. Along the route from Marble Arch to Edgware there
were a sizeable number of pubs along the way, a good amount were originally
coaching inns dating back to the 15th century. During filming in
late 1967 there was still a hefty cluster of pubs that lined the entire route
of the Edgware Road, but since then a vast number of the establishments have
since closed or been demolished all in the name of Progress and Destruction. As
Betjeman noted “Come on lets make a dash and meet it where we enter, the road
that no one looks upon except as birds of passage. Oh Edgware Road, be our
abode, and let us hear your message.”
The then newly built Odeon, Marble
Arch features prominently in the documentary, replacing the former Regal Cinema
which was built near the site of the former New Inn which was demolished to make way for the new cinema. In 2000, JD Wetherspoons opened The
Tyburn, named in reference to the Tyburn Tree where mass executions took
place (on the site where Marble Arch now resides) from the 12th
century until 1783. Unfortunately this pub was also sent to the gallows in 2016,
when the entire complex fell victim to The Bryanston project and was later
demolished. The southern part of the road between Paddington and Maida Vale is
affectionately known as Little Cairo due to its sheer number of Middle-Eastern
restaurants and shisha bars. One such establishment, a Lebanese restaurant
called Al Arez has a faded pub sign, where once The Old English Gentleman
resided. Formerly known as the Kings Head, it was first licenced in 1817, it
was rebuilt in 1935 as part of an office and retail development. Despite a name
change in 1987, its latter-day owners Enterprise Inns sold and closed the pub
in 2009. Further up the road, an unassuming branch of Coffee Island with its
impressive Georgian façade once housed The King’s Arms, dating back to
1805, this former Watney’s pub was gradually cutback over the years after it
was sold to hotel developers, spending its final years as a basement bar. It’s
poignant to think that none of the seven pubs on this southernly stretch of the route now exist south of the Marylebone Flyover, yet
incredibly The Green Man just a stone’s throw away from Edgware Road
Station has survived, this site dates back to 1720, although the current
building was constructed in 1867. This marble fronted corner-pub is now part of
Pubs Love chain, which runs seven combined pubs/ hostels across London. Soon we
find ourselves in the affluent neighbourhood of Maida Vale, named after the
battle of Maida in 1806 between the British and French forces, outside the town
of Maida (in Calabria, Italy). As we go northwards pass the West End gate
development where Clutterbucks (The Wheatsheaf) once resided on the site until 1992
when it closed and was subsequently demolished. A few yards on the right at the
corner of Boscobel Street, a bright crimson façade once housed The Portman
Arms. Built in 1873, it was initially a Coombe & Co house, until it
later merged into Watney, Coombe & Reid. By the 1980’s it had been taken on
by the Kissane Taverns group, established by Christy Kissane who ran several
Irish themed pubs around London. He eventually sold it to the Chef & Brewer
chain where it was eventually turned into Dar Marakesh, a restaurant/ shisha
bar before closing in 2023. Despite passing through many hands, echoes of its
past remain, from its elegant mid-Victorian frontage with Corinthian style
pilasters while at roof level there are two extant gables that bear the text of its
original namesake. Just before the Regents Canal, an unassuming pair of shops
adorns the frontage of the former Hero of Maida pub. Built in 1809, it
was named after General Sir John Stuart, who was a lieutenant-general in the
Napoleonic Wars and helped the British forces defeat the French at the Battle
of Maida. This pub was instrumental in giving the name to Maida Hill (where it
stood) and the area beyond. From it’s opening, it was exclusively run by the
Goode family, until its closure in 1992 where it was converted into retail
units. Today, the original building still exists largely in-tact, including the
entrance to the former coach yard and the free-standing pub sign.
As we head up northwards towards
Kilburn, Betjeman notes “Ho for Kilburn High Road, Ho for a sumptuous feast,
it’s your road and my road, and Ireland meets the East.” This area is noted for
the highest population of Irish born and second-generation descent anywhere in
London, and for having the greatest concentration of pubs anywhere in the
Edgware Road. The most southernly public house on this thoroughfare is The
Queen’s Arms, a large corner pub that was rebuilt in 1958 after the
original building was destroyed in the blitz on 26th September 1940. The origins of the area date to the 11th century when a priory was constructed, subsequently by 1444 a guesthouse was built on the site. This hostel later became The
Red Lion, as early as 1721 it was recorded as a licenced house; rebuilt
several times, in 1890 it was renovated into its present three-storey structure.
Owned by Charrington’s at the time, then landlord C.E Jenkins (between 1905-14)
who was a former hypnotist under the name of Professor Morris used to organise
annual concerts where he would show off his skills to the punters. It was
renamed The Westbury in 2007, and ultimately Soul Store West before closing in
2017. A few years ago, Wetherspoons tried to reopen the pub, but these plans stalled
due to local planning issues and the building remains vacant. Immediately
opposite lies The Old Bell, dating from c.1600, it was originally a
coaching inn built on the site of a former mansion, and by the 18th
century it became popular with tourists as it was located near the site of
Kilburn Wells. In 1863 it was rebuilt, one of its notable architectural
features are the twin turrets that extend from the frontage, formerly run by
Taylor Walker and currently Stonegate, it was renovated several years ago, some the original Victorian fixtures still remain.
Passing the newly reopened Kilburn Bridge pub, originally opened as the
Volunteer Hotel in the mid-19th century, it was one of three pubs on
the high street once owned by Charrington’s. Another family connection is The
Juniper, formerly known as The Cock Tavern, allegedly dating from
1486, during the early 19th century it was run by Hugh McDermot, who
son-in-law ran The Hero of Maida a few miles down the road. In 1900,
it’s then owners Truman’s rebuilt the pub into a impressive three-storey
structure, where a number of the ornate original features are still extant. The
pub is notable for once housing the Cock Tavern Theatre in its first-floor
function room between 2009-11, where they staged a number of intimate shows to an
audience of 40. In 2016, Greene King sold and closed the pub, three years later
it was reopened under its current guise as a bar and brasserie. Heading towards
the centre of town, The Cooper’s Arms is shining example of
architecture. Rebuilt by owners Charrington’s in 1926 under the auspices of
architect Sidney Clark, it was designed in the mock-tudor style that was
popular at the time, with stucco frontage and exposed timber framing. It was
blended with more contemporary flourishes with art-deco stained-glass windows
displaying Charrington’s signage, wood panelled walls and a bar counter replete
with pilasters and fielded panelling. Over time this pub has become a pillar in
the local Irish community, in 2000 it was immortalized in the film ‘County
Kilburn’ set exclusively in this very pub, providing an invaluable insight into
the pub’s communal appeal. Immediately opposite is The Earl of Derby, a locally
listed former Worthington’s pub dating from 1869, it was a striking
three-storey structure built in yellow brick with neo-classical flourishes
adorned with arched windows and decorative mouldings throughout; another
popular Irish boozer, sadly this local bit the dust last December. Another
local institution is The Fiddler, now a live music venue, it was once
the flagship of the Kissane Taverns franchise, owner Christy Kisane was a
fervent Kerry fan who decorated the walls in the team colours (green and gold),
showed all the Kerry Gales GAA games and hosted the players whenever they
visited. When he died in October 2015, hundreds of mourners attended his
funeral procession on Kilburn High Road as it passed by the pub.
Soon the cluster of pubs around
Kilburn becomes highly concentrated, many of the former establishments still
exist at least in structural form such as The Victoria Tavern, a corner
facing 1860’s pub that now houses a betting shop, or The Lord Palmerston,
a listed 19th century three storey building with rendered
elevations, rounded arched windows, topped off with a steeply pitched roof with
dormers and curved gables; closed since 1998 it is currently a branch of
Nandos. Thankfully many of the historic public house still exist in this area, The
Sir Colin Campbell is another boozer on this long stretch between Marble
Arch-Edgware with historical connections. It was named after Sir Colin Campbell who
commanded the Highland Brigade during the Crimean War and later became Commander-in-Chief
of India during the uprising of 1857, his likeliness bears proudly over the
hanging sign. It was constructed in 1898 by Watney, Coombe and Reid during the boom
period of pub building the area. A small two room local, historical features
can still be seen around the vicinity, such as the distinct Watney’s roundel
above the hanging sign, glazed brown tiling on the ground floor, dimpled leaded
windows and the island bar which is still divided into two areas. Currently managed
by the decedents of Irish emigres, it has become popular with the local
community, holding regular gigs every weekend playing traditional Irish music. It
is one of a trio of pubs in the area listed on CAMRA’s inventory of pubs with
historic interiors, the same goes for The Black Lion which has the
prestigious three-star rating. A grade II listed building constructed in the
same year as its neighbour, it was designed by architect R.A. Lewcock on
commission by then owners Michell and Aldous who ran a nearby brewery. A
veritable drinking palace, the interior is sumptuously decorated with an ornate
ceiling, a series of copper relief panels that line the upper walls (designed
by F.A. Callcott) depicting 18th century folk at leisure, partitions
with etched glass windows and a long bar-counter with fielded panelling and
pilasters which is backed off with a grandiose bar-back with decorative
cornices and plasterwork friezes. Despite a major refurbishment in 2003, much
of the original interior has been preserved and three years ago cask facilities
returned after many years absence when it was sold to London Village Inns, who run several bustling pubs
around London. Passing beneath Brondesbury Station towards the end of Kilburn
High Road is The North London Tavern. A product of its time, it was
built in 1894 by Wenlock Brewery, chiefly catering for the local railway
workers. Subsequently run by Charringtons, this pub currently has a one-star
rating on CAMRA’s inventory of pubs with interiors of historical interest,
incidentally there are some original design features still extant, such as the
terrazzo spittoon that surrounds the rear part of the counter, gilt and cut
class mirrors on the walls to the glazed partition that once separated the
public bar from the billiards room, now used for dining. This emphasis on
dining is more greatly amplified today under its current owners Greene King who
cater towards a family/ dog friendly atmosphere, organising regular quiz nights
and open mic events which have become inherently popular.
Leaving Kilburn behind, the road
goes up in an upwards elevation, Betjeman notes “With Shoot-Up-Hill before us,
we leave the hemmed in town and raise a country chorus to Cricklewood and the
Crown.” Before the 1920’s, much of the area northwards was predominantly rural
and undeveloped, which is hard to picture from a modern viewpoint with the
endless parade of buildings that straddle the course of the Edgware Road.
Heading into the High Street, two pubs straddle its southern edge, The
Beaten Docket is relatively new addition to the area, having opened in 1991
by JD Wetherspoons on the site of a former shop, incidentally it is named after
a losing betting ticket and there are many framed prints around the pub
reflecting the racing link. Immediately opposite lies The Windmill,
constructed by Thomas Clutterbuck & Co. in 1900, it was envisaged as a
hotel offering facilities to passing travellers, to this day it still operates
as a hotel in addition to its accompanying bar. By 1923, Clutterbucks has
ceased as a company, having ceased their brewing operations seven years earlier,
by this time the pub had been sold onto Taylor Walker, who were now running
three pubs in the high street by this time that also included The Crown and The Cricklewood
Hotel. This place has had a chequered history going through successive owners,
frequently closing down and reopening, its existence as a hotel hangs in the
balance as Brent Council mulls over the possibility of converting the hotel
rooms into flats. Betjeman paints a vivid view of the area and of The Crown
that proudly resides in its epicentre, “there stood a village market place
where now you buy your yams, and I like a memory to trace the red electric
trams. However far their journeys made, they always waited here and in this
terracotta shade their passengers drank beer.” Like its rival establishment
down the road, this pub was constructed a hotel. Originally a coaching inn
dating back to 1750, in 1889 its then owners Cannon Brewery took the bold
decision to rebuild it. Constructed by architects Shoebridge and Rising, the
fixtures were overseen by Henry Whiteman Rising whose pub designs were known for
their intricate woodwork and complex bar fittings. Designed in the Jacobean
revival style, Historic England describe it as a grand public house faced in
sandstone with rusticated arched columns above the entrance flanked with
pilasters, while the first-floor projection boasts an impressive 16-light bay
window, while the upper two dormer storeys above are recessed into its
elaborate Masnard roof structure, standing four storeys high it was an imposing
structure, it quickly became a local landmark in the area. The bar interior is
equally impressive, a parquet floor surrounds the original bar counter with
fielded panelling, backed up by a high bar-back with a row of etched mirrors
featuring birds and flowers on the upper shelves, while the ornate ceiling is
complimented by the spandrels that frame the outer windows. The pub was
originally divided into three areas, namely Buffet, Dining Room and Billiards,
and these signs can still be seen on the doors. Unfortunately, the dividing
area has since been removed, though the three carved fireplaces are echoes to
its former glory. A grade II listed building, despite renovations over the
years much of the original bar and external fittings have been maintained,
currently owned by the AG Hotels Group, the site reopened for business in April
2023. Heading northwards, we pass Barretts Free House, one of a number
of one-bar Irish pubs that straddle the course of the road between Cricklewood
– Burnt Oak. Many of these pubs were built on the site of former shops and have
only opened within the last 40 years. On the junction with Mora Road, we pass
the impressive structure of The Cricklewood Hotel, built in 1890, it was
initially a Cannon Brewery house, and some of their original decorations are
still visible from the frontage, such as the signage reading 'Fine ales and
stouts' that displays proudly over the ground floor structure fronted in
Portland Stone. The building has two turret structures facing the Edgware Road
side, these are rounded off at the upper reaches with the brewery’s trademark
cannon signage, carved into the stone. The pub was later taken over by Taylor
Walker in 1930, over the years it has operated as a heritage inn and Jamaican
rum bar respectively, before closing in 2017, it currently operates as a Shisha
bar.
Passing through Staples Corner
with its mass of ring roads and large retail units, it’s hard to picture this
area as a rural idyll that once greeted travellers during the Victorian age. Beyond
the spaghetti junction lies the site of the Welsh Harp reservoir which Betjeman
describes in reminiscent tones “see the Welsh Harp with undulating shore and
hear beyond the road’s arterial roar. Your swinging signboards, barns with
curly tails, your little lakes on which the Sunset smiles.” Just over the
bridge that goes over the Brent River, resides the former site of The Old
Welsh Harp which was still existence at the time of Betjeman’s documentary.
Originally a coaching inn initially known as the Harp and Horn, its earliest
records date back to 1751. From 1848 onwards it is listed as a public house and
a few years later the nearby Welsh Harp reservoir and nature reserve were
constructed, named after the pub that straddled its edge. In 1858, William
Perkins Warner became the landlord, he leased the adjoining fields and held various
events such as horse racing, swimming, greyhound races, ice skating, a
menagerie and notably organised the first ever bike race held in England. Following his
acquisition of the pub, he rebuilt the site to modern Victorian standards, in
order to bring in more customers and introduce a large dining room that could
also stage music hall entertainment, the pub was even featured in the popular song
“The Jolliest Place That’s Out” which Warner personally helped to write. Such
was his influence in the local area, in 1870 he persuaded the Midland Railway
to build a railway station near his pub in order to increase footfall. Warner
passed away in 1889 and it continued to be run by his widow and brother John for
another decade before it was passed onto successive owners. By the 20th
century the pub’s popularity declined, despite it being a rebuilt a second time
in 1937, its closure was inevitable when the southernly extension of the M1 was
constructed which forced the demolition of the building in 1970. Meanwhile over on
the northern banks of the reservoir once stood the former site of The Upper
Welsh Harp. It was constructed in the 1850’s following the construction of
the reservoir, though a building had existed on this site since 1826. It later
was run by Taylor Walker, and became popular with anglers, ramblers and ornithologist
using the nearby reserve, even Bill Oddie was alleged to have visited this place
occasionally. In 2008 it became an Indian restaurant known as Raw Spice and it
continued for another seven years when it closed in 2015. Despite attempts by
local campaigners to grant this place listed status, this ultimately fell on
deaf ears and the site was demolished in 2017, subsequently a development of
apartment blocks was built in its place. A few yards away, an unassuming
Supermarket complex once housed the site of The World’s End, an outpost of the JD
Wetherspoon’s empire that opened in 1992, and once made its way to the CAMRA
Beer Guide (in the same year), before being taken over by Ambishus six years
later and closing a decade subsequently.
As we reach The Hyde on the fringes of West Hendon, The King’s Arms
was another former pub that was repurposed in its final years. Built in 1878,
it was originally a Clutterbucks house known as The Magpie and Stump. Trumans
eventually took over the running of the building and their signage could be
seen around the vicinity, including its distinctive gable that bared its
trademark logo. Later on, it was taken over by Enterprise Inns, who repainted
the frontage a ghastly black, and removed the handpumps, it was subsequently
known as Kings and latterly the King’s Lounge by 2009 and five years later it
became Black Leaf Lounge, a restaurant/ shisha bar. The site closed in 2020,
and plans are currently in place to demolish the building and turn into a mixed
apartment/ office space.
We soon find ourselves in the
former county of Middlesex which had become part of the Greater London area only three years before Betjeman’s documentary was broadcast. Evidently, he
openly laments about its tragic loss, a vanished county of weatherboarded
farms, sudden hills, willowy brooks, winding lanes and rills, all destroyed in
the name of progress. He sums it up by bluntly stating “dear Middlesex, dear
vanished country friend, your neighbour London killed you in the end.” Like its
neighbour The Upper Welsh Harp further down the road, there is absolutely no
trace of The Surrey Arms. Constructed in c.1891, it was initially a
Michell and Aldous house before it was taken on by Trumans. Much like the fate
of other pubs in the area, in 2009 it became Funky Brownz, an Indian
restaurant/ shisha bar, yet ultimately the site closed in 2019 and was
demolished the following year, buried under yet another apartment complex. Going
towards Colindale which was originally named after the Collin family whom lived
there during the 16th century, on the junction with Kingsbury Road
once resided The Red Lion, built in 1878 by Clutterbucks, it was later
taken over by Charrington’s who subsequently rebuilt the site in 1931. It was
subsequently taken over by Taylor Walker. During the 1970’s, it became one of
the beacons of cask ale in London when its very existence of cask was threatened by the
scourge of keg beer in pubs at the time, and it even featured in the CAMRA Good Beer Guide
for four consecutive years between 1979-83. In 2005, it was turned into Red
Pepper, an Indian restaurant before it latterly closed in 2008. The site was
demolished the following year and a care home now occupies its site. The
Moon Under Water is one of the more fortunate pubs in the area to still be
in business, currently the most northernly outpost of the JD Wetherspoon empire
on the Edgware Road, it opened on 15th November 1990 on the site of
a former Woolworth’s store. A large pub catered primarily towards dining and
live sports, living up it to its owner’s ethos it stocks a good number of real
ales from various London breweries, this site often has featured on many a pub
tour by the local Enfield & Barnet CAMRA branch. The town also boasts a few Irish pubs
including Erin’s Hope located opposite the Wetherspoon’s branch, and The
Shanakee near the junction with Wakeman’s Hill Avenue. It former neighbour Clery’s
Clock was located on the corner, and it was notable for being one of the few larger Irish pubs in the area before it closed in December 2023. Moving forth
towards Burnt Oak, which was once predominately farmland except for a few pubs
and a handful of shops along the Edgware Road, this all changed with the
construction of the Watling Estate and local underground station in 1924. Until
a decade ago the area boasted a healthy number of pubs, near the site of the
former branch of Tesco’s once resided The Bald Faced Stag, originally a
hostelry, the earliest records date back to 1805 when the area was still known
as Red Hill, initially it was made up of three different buildings. By 1861, it
is recorded as a public house where in the census, landlord Richard Parker is
listed as licenced victualler. In the early 20th century,
Charringtons took over the running of the pub and rebuilt it in 1928 to
the cost of £13,300, adding a further extension in 1930 which cost £7,000. The
pub had a reputation for rowdiness and unfriendly regulars, late night brawls
were a frequent occurrence, and true to its reputation a sign outside the door
read ‘Please Beware, This is the Bald Faced Stag’. Writer and broadcaster
Robert Elms who grew up in the area, memorably mentions the pub in his book ‘London
Made Us’ where he vividly describes the rowdy atmosphere as entertainment, it
was not uncommon for regulars to lock the landlord in the cupboard and help
themselves to drinks, as well drunken duels taking that took place in the
carpark as punters battled each other with chair legs. Despite efforts to
improve it, Punch Taverns sold and closed the site in 2012; six years later
planning permission was approved to convert the building into a supermarket
with apartments on the upper floors. Like its neighbour Colindale, this area
has also has a number of Irish pubs including The New Inn and Blarneys,
the latter is notable for its green and gold frontage. Soon we reach the site
of Parkside Motors, a used car lot. Its sign curiously features on what was
formerly a free-standing pub sign, the last remnant of its former occupant The
Lansdowne. Constructed in the 1930’s by then owners Taylor Walker, it was
noted for its district looking frontage, a two-storey structure constructed in redbrick, centred with a curved gable projecting from the slate roof with four dormer
windows displaying asymetrically on either side. The ground floor continued with the asymmetrical theme
with two sets of 3-bay windows flanking side doors on both sides of the
building, whilst a pair of floor length windows flanked the entrance with its
arched canopy. The building was one of the finest architectural designs in the
area, yet its existence was untimely cut short in December 2014 when a fire
devastated the roof and first floor, sadly the building was ultimately beyond
repair and was later demolished. Its neighbour The Prince of Wales (now
Atmosphere) has fared better, a beer house has existed here since 1867 when
owners Michell and Aldous initially constructed it as a small two-storey
redbrick structure. It was later take over by Truman’s, and in 1930 they
rebuilt the site into its present form. An imposing three storey building, it
was designed in the mock-tudor style that was becoming increasingly prevalent
of the time, and was typical of the improved pubs scheme of the period where
breweries rebuilt and enlarged existing sites, modernising facilities in the
hope of attracting a higher class of customer. With its distinct timber framed
frontage, asymmetrical window arrangement and trio of steeply pitched roofs
with florid designs on the gables, there was a concerted efforted to make this
pub look more attractive than its nearby competitors. Known locally as the
Prince, it closed in 2008 and the upper floors were subsequently turned into
apartments. In 2014 it was reopened as Atmosphere, a desi-pub and continues to
operate as a restaurant to this day.
The course of the Silk Stream (a
tributary of the River Brent) runs through the area, Betjeman describes the
stream as being like the Tiber of Middlesex. Towards the end of the documentary,
he does a spot in Watling Park where he describes Middlesex with its cleaner
air as like being in the countryside. Indeed, there is different feel as we
reach the northern extremities of the Edgware Road as we reach Edgware, situtated on the borders of Greater London. Due to its convenient
position during the late medieval period hostelries started to pop up,
providing pilgrims with accommodation on their way to St Albans abbey. These
evolved into coaching inns and by the 19th century, many of these
became licenced public houses. Although by 1968 the number of pubs in Edgware
had slightly dwindled from its height earlier in the century there was still a
healthy number, yet in the space of fifty years many of these establishments
had closed down or been demolished. Underneath the Premier Inn lies the
remnants of The White Lion, first licenced in 1751 it operated initially
as a coaching inn. Later taken over by Trumans, the site was rebuilt and
extended in the 19th century, and was able to house larger
gatherings of up to 300 people in their function rooms. In 1959, the Two R’s
music club was established with performances every Friday evening; a number of
bands performed here, including The Who. Later in October 1972, the pub
introduced an over 18’s discotheque that took place on Sunday evenings. The pub
was also popular with fans from the nearby Edgware Town FC, whose White Lion
grounds were named after and constructed to the rear of the pub in 1939. In it
later years the pub was taken over by Scottish & Newcastle, yet trade
gradually ebbed away and in 1996, landlord Paul Thompson called it a day and
closed the pub early the following year. Three years later it was demolished
and a hotel was built on site. A few doors down is The Change of Hart,
built in c. 1600 as a coaching inn called The White Hart, it is one of the
oldest buildings in the area. It was constructed as a three-storey stuccoed
structure, with a hipped tiled roof and wooden eaves cornices, later in the 19th
century most of the ground floor including the timbering around the access path
to the horse stables was altered. Owners, Taylor Walker divided the ground
floor, it featured a snug, a club room, public bar and saloon bar. Although in
later years the dividing walls were taken town, the multi-sided bar counter,
games room and snugs were maintained. In the 1973 it became grade II listed
when well preserved timber beams dating from the 15th century were
discovered in the upper-stairs bedrooms. In 1992, the pub was renamed and it
continued to operate until 2017 when owners Punch Taverns sold it to become a
restaurant. Today the building remains vacant, yet the upper floors are in poor
condition as in need of repair. On the corner with Whitchurch Lane is The
Masons Arms, initially a Clutterbucks house, a pub has recorded on the site
as early as 1803 yet by 1928 with road widening schemes taking place the
original building was forcibly demolished. Its then owners Cannon Brewery (soon
to be taken over by Taylor Walker) were offered by the council to rebuild the
pub on the corner with High Street Edgware. Taking heed from the improved pub
scheme, the new building was substantially larger in size, incorporated a
curved shape with a wide and asymmetrical frontage. Two storeys high with a
further dormer storey, sash windows compliment the look while tall chimneys
spanned the steeply sloping roof giving off an Arts and Crafts character. The
pub became a popular function for venues including live bands, Charlie Watts
performed here even in 1959 with his first band the Jo Jones Seven. In later
years, the pub acquired a reputation for being the roughest pub in town, brawls
and various illegal activities were common here such as gold smuggling outfits,
landlords illicitly filling barrels of beer with tap water and robberies, the
site closed in 2012 and has since been converted into a shisha bar/ club lounge.
Towards the end of the High
Street is The Beehive, originally known as the Barn and Hay Wain, it was
one of two pubs in the area run by Bennetts Brewery. In 1930, the pub was
rebuilt as an improved pub; built in red brick, its features were relatively
plain and functional, which suggests it was built relatively quickly, in order
to serve the expanding community at the time. Eight years later the brewery was
acquired by Mann, Crossman & Paulin Ltd, which subsequently merged with
Watney’s to become Watney Mann in 1958. In later years the pub became popular
with bikers, au-pairs and Jewish youths, live music was a frequent fixture. It
was also known for its rowdy behaviour, in 1993 forty people were involved in a
mass brawl outside the pub, and two years later a local gang who were recently
barred, raided the premises attacking both staff and customers. The site is
currently called Zanzibar, an Indian restaurant/ bar; although the façade is
largely unaltered, though much of the original interior fittings have been
renovated and removed. On the opposite
side of the road, just before the turning with Grove Road is The Three
Wishes, the newest pub to open in the area, it was established in 1993 as
The Blacking Bottle when JD Wetherspoons converted the premises from a former
freezer supply shop. In 2006 it was sold to Upper Deck who renamed the pub to
its present name. Despite being a relatively modern pub, the original owners endeavoured to go for a traditional look with wood panelled walls, stained
glass windows and bar area replete with fielded panelling and pilasters with a
gantry featuring coloured-glass inserts. The pub hasn’t change much since
Wetherspoons owned it, though the number of cask options have gradually dwindled since its height of six handpumps listed by London Drinker in 1998, and its popular weekly live music events often draw
large crowds. It is generally perceived to be the only traditional pub left in
the area. Going towards to Stonegrove, just beyond the junction with Park Road
at No.76 was the site of a former pub called The Leather Bottle.
Originally built in 1860, it was the second of two pubs to be run by Bennett’s
(later Watney’s). During its existence, the pub had undergone a number of
changes, in the early 1920’s it was rebuilt and enlarged into a two-store
building. In 1965, the interior was renovated as part of Watney’s Schooner Inns
projects that specialised in themed pubs. The interior was retrofitted as a
Swiss chalet, replete with wood panelled walls and fittings. Many of the
Schooner Inns were refits of older establishments, where the original
architecture was stripped out and modern fixtures were installed whilst
following a specific design theme, which varied widely from Vikings, Parisian,
Hawaiian and even Pirates to name a few. During the 1970’s, the upstairs dining
area was converted into a Berni Inn steakhouse, which subsequently turned into
a Beefeater by the 1990’s. In 1991 a fire caused extensive damage to the
interior which led to it being closed for several months. By the end of the
decade, it was renamed The Bottle and Drago, yet with dwindling customers and
failed attempt at selling Thai food, the owners called it a day in October 2002
and the pub was subsequently closed. At the time, residents were reportedly
saddened to see the last pub in Stonegrove close, the building was subsequently
sold to developers Pinecal and it was subsequently demolished and turned into
flats. As the Edgware Road comes to end as we approach Brockley Hill, the A5
continues northwards towards Hertfordshire and beyond. Near the junction with
Spur Road is a branch of McDonalds, where The Corner House formerly
occupied. Constructed in 1937 by architects Hawe and Carter on commission by
Taylor Walker, from the outset it was designed as a roadhouse pub in the mind,
which had become prevalent in the expanding suburbs at the time. It had large
curved windows, brown-red/ brown brick-work and Indian red/ brown tiles on the
roof. The main entrance was surrounded by a stonework border. The building was asymmetrical in appearance,
with rounded edges on either side of the building, that harked back to the
turrets of medieval architecture, which commonly featured in pubs earlier in
the 19th century. Roadhouse
pubs were designed for comfort, and this pub epitomised the roadhouse pub both
in look and concept, with saloon and public bars, dining facilities, a large
outdoor terrace and hotel rooms in the upper floors. Over the years, the pub
became very popular with local community, it was also used as a reception venue
for weddings, christenings and funerals. It also attracted match day crowds on
their way to games at Wembley. In the 1980’s, the pub’s interior was
extensively renovated and modernised, in 1994 the pub came under the ownership
of Allied Domecq and two years later they announced they would be closing the
pub and selling the site to McDonalds. Despite concerted efforts from locals to
save the pub, the campaign failed and the pub was closed early in 1998. The
loss of this pub was due to corporate restructuring rather than diminishing
customer returns.
Through the course of the Edgware
Road as it stretches nearly 9 miles between Marble Arch – Edgware, a vast
number of pubs line the route; a whole manner of breweries/ companies have owned
pubs along its stretch at one point in time, most notably Taylor Walker,
Trumans, JD Wetherspoon, Kissane Taverns, Charrington, Cannon and Watney’s, along
with local brewers like Bennett’s, Clutterbucks and Michell and Aldous. At the
time when Betjeman’s documentary was filmed, most of the Edgware Road was well
represented with pubs with around 35 still open at the time, yet subsequently
many of these establishments have since closed, some have been converted to
other uses like coffee shops, estate agents, shisha bars or restaurants, some properties
remain vacant like The Red Lion, Kilburn or The Portman Arms, Maida Vale,
indeed there are several extant buildings along the Edgware Road which were
formerly pubs where much of the original façade has been maintained. Yet sadly
a good number have been demolished for redevelopment schemes like The Upper
Welsh Harp or The Surrey Arms, West Hendon which have been turned into residential
apartment complexes, or in the case of The White Lion, Edgware it has become a
Premier Inn. As of today, there are only 22 pubs along the Edgware Road
(several of these have opened in the ensuing years) and some areas like Maida
Vale are not represented at all while the likes of Burnt Oak and Edgware have
seen their numbers drastically dwindle, moreover areas like Kilburn still enjoy a healthy
number of pubs, and many of these were around in late 1967 when Betjeman filmed his
documentary.
For the pubs that are still in
business, they draw from a wide stretch of history, from Victorian drinking palaces
to the improved roadhouse pubs of the interwar years and the modern bars that
have opened in more recent decades. A good number of these establishments were
originally coaching inns, which points to the former usage of the route in the
days before the railways came. Notably, several of these extant pubs are grade
II listed and have featured in CAMRA’s inventory of historic pubs interiors, although
Betjeman barely mentions the pubs along the route, only The Crown, Cricklewood
is seen and mentioned in the documentary, where he describes the pub in wistful
reminiscent overtones. Although the pubs along the Edgware Road are largely in a
depleted state compared to 1968, there are still a good number of establishments
to visit along its entire length, from The Green Man in Paddington all the way up
to The Three Wishes in Edgware. So, whenever you got time to spare, why not
follow Betjeman’s example and take a tour of the Edgware Road from Marble Arch
to Edgware, and visit some of the pubs along the way, perhaps you’ll be able to
hear its message?
