Tuesday, March 26, 2024

Beer Review: Thornbridge Jaipur

Brewery: Thornbridge


Style: IPA


ABV: 5.9%


Location: Bakewell, Derbyshire


Aroma: Distinctly fruity with tropical fruits such as pineapple, guava and grapefruit present; rather hoppy with hints of citrus permeating through in the background, with some residual tartness from the malt.


Colour: Straw coloured golden yellow with a hefty off white two finger head, which is unstandable given that they use low colour Maris Otter malt for their base. It is cloudy, which indicates that they don't use finings in the mix. 


Taste: Rather sharp and bitter with a background of maltiness cascading through. It has a creamy mouthfeel, without too much carbonation getting in the way. The menagerie of hops that include the likes of Chinook, Centennial,  Ahtanum, Simcoe, Columbus and Cascade rumble in the glass, trying to compete for attention, which helps give the beer its distinct flavour profile. Their is some hints of citrus fruit present, yet the overwhelming reliance of hops puts that quickly aside.


Verdict: A distinct and flavourful IPA that doesn't shy away from packing a punch to the tastebuds. The use of several different hops helps add to its overall flavour, yet the over-reliance of hops mutes the malty and fruity notes that help charecterise a traditional IPA, which somewhat takes away from the overall drinking experience. This beer is closer to a Brut IPA or NEIPA in style, so expect don't expect traditional flavours here. Although this flagship beer has won a number of awards for the brewery since it was first released in 2005, as an IPA I wouldn't rate this among my favourites.


Rating: 7/10




Tuesday, March 19, 2024

The Curious Case of Beer Flavoured Foods

It is well known that there are hundreds of dishes out there that use beer in their recipes, including stews, soups, battered fish, chilli-con carne, cake, bread, marinated meats and roasts. What is less known however is the small number of breweries who have engaged in producing food items infused with their own beers. This practise is albeit uncommon as its often difficult for breweries to find the extra space to produce food items, and where this does occur, the production is normally outsourced to another company. Such as the case when Everards collaborated with Leicester based company Drivers Pickles where they produced Tiger Ale Chutney infused with their flagship product Tiger Ale (4.2%), moreover Tring Brewery worked with Grim Reaper Foods to develop a hot sauce permeated with their powerful IPA Raven King (5.5%). Or more recently in February last year when Powys based brewery Monty’s teamed up with Get Jerky of Welshpool to develop Real Ale Beef Jerky, flavoured with their stout Dark Secret (5.5%). Although using beer in food can be seen as innovative, truthfully many of these products are hard to come by and often sold at brewery shops or on a limited strictly local basis; however, if you dig deeper, you’ll find a marvellous menagerie of beer flavoured food products situated throughout the land.

 

Quite often, you’ll find beer used in condiments such as Chutneys, Sauces and Mustard as its far easier to produce and implement that other food products; Hook Norton notably has a varied range with the likes of, Old Hooky Mustard Double Stout Chilli Mustard, Old Hooky Beer Chutney, Flagship Smooth Mustard and Haymaker Smooth Mustard for instance; whilst St Austell boasts the likes of Korev Sweet Chilli Sauce, Tribute Ale Chutney and Mena Dhu BBQ Sauce for instance; Chiltern features the likes of Dark Old Ale Chutney, Chiltern Ale Mustard and Chiltern Porter BBQ Sauce; and furthermore Andwell’s once featured a range of condiments in their range using their Resolute Bitter (3.8%) in the likes of Resolute Chilli Jam and Rich Resolutely Chutney, whilst King John (4.6%) was used in the regally named Royal Red Onion Marmalade. Sometimes specific beers may be used such as Theakston’s Old Peculier (5.6%) in products like Peculier English Country Mustard, Peculier Red Tomato & Chilli Jam and Peculier Apple, Peach & Apricot Chutney for instance; whilst Tring utilize Death or Glory (7.2%) in their Chutney and Wholegrain Mustard products respectively. Meanwhile, Thornbridge’s range of sauces are based around their iconic beer Jaipur (5.9%) and include the likes of Jaipur BBQ Sauce, Jaipur Mango & Pineapple Table Sauce and Jaipur Birthday Hot Sauce for instance.

 

Crisps always go well with beer, so it quite an occasion when the two are combined together. A notable case occurred in 2015, when Adnams teamed up with Fairfields Farm whom specialise in producing gourmet hand-cooked crisps, when they came up with Ghost Ship Crisps which were flavoured with the brewery’s iconic pale ale Ghost Ship (4.5%). It is quite rare to see breweries collaborate with crisp manufacturers, although through the years we have seen the likes of Roast Beef & Spitfire Ale (Kent Crisps), Hobgoblin Spitroast Steak (Burts) and more recently Steak & Butcombe Ale Pie Crisps (The British Snack Co.). Other types of pub snacks have also been tried, such as Adnams’ Ghost Ship Peanuts (Mr. Filberts), Tring’s Death or Glory Charcuterie Sticks (Chiltern Charcuterie), Monty’s Real Ale Beef Jerky (Get Jerky) or the humble Pickled Onion, which includes the likes of Peculier Pickled Onions (Theakston), Found Hope Beer Pickled Onions (Macintosh) and Fuggles Hop Pickled Onions (Chiltern) for instance. Notably in 2020, Grainstore Brewery released a range of flavoured pork scratchings that included a variety of flavours dervied from various beers in their extensive range including Rutland Panther (3.4%), Rutland Osprey (4%) and Ten Fifty (5%). Moreover, beer has often been noted as a reliable ingredient in pies, and in 2018 Pukka Pies released a Steak & Ale pie flavoured with St Peter’s Best Bitter (3.7%), whilst Burford based Cotswold Pie Co. created a Steak & Wadworth Ale Pie utilizing Wadworth’s flagship bitter 6X (4.3%) in the mix, this promising pie has gone onto win multiple awards including winning Silver at the British Pie Awards in 2021 and 2022, a 1 star at the Great Taste Awards the same year. Cheese has often been described as an appropriate accompaniment to beer since the number of beer and cheese pairings are infinite, which in turn has inspired some producers to produce cheeses infused with beer in the mix, cheddar is quite often seen as the cheese of choice due to its relatively mild qualities that marry well with the comparatively stronger flavours of beer. For instance, Chiltern recently released Chiltern Beer Cheese fortified with their Beechwood Best Bitter (4.3%), whilst the Cheshire Cheese Co. developed Old Hag which features the intriguing combination of cheddar, wholegrain mustard and Old Hag Stout (5.2%) by Macclesfield based brewer Wincle Beer, and Wensleydale Creamery once utilizd noted strong ale Riggwelter (5.7%) from Black Sheep Brewery, for their Fountains Gold Cheddar.

 

For the sweet tooth, marmalades and conserves are a popular option. Hook Norton notably developed Off the Hook Marmalade that utilized their Off the Hook (4.3%) with Seville oranges to create an unusual beer flavoured marmalade, meanwhile, Timothy Taylor has taken the innovative approach of mixing marmalade with their Poulter’s Porter (4.8%) to create a Porter Marmalade. They also teamed up with Botham’s of Whitby to create a fruit cake flavoured with Landlord (4.1%), other Yorkshire based breweries have also created their own Fruit Cakes including Theakston whom created a cake using Old Peculier (5.6%) and their close relations at Black Sheep Brewery who created a cake infused with Riggwelter (5.7%). Meanwhile at the tail end of the year, an increasing number of breweries have been releasing Christmas Pudding infused with their own tipples, quite often using ales from the stronger end of their range such Chiltern’s take on the festive classic which is flavoured with their Lord Lieutenant’s Cream Porter (6%), whilst Harvey’s of Lewes utilize their Christmas Ale (7.5%) in their concoction, and Adnams use Broadside (6.3%) with theirs. In 2015, Chelmsford based business Lillypuds established by Alison Lilly created a Christmas Pudding that utilized Chockwork Orange (6.5%) from Brentwood Brewery, in the first year alone she sold 600 puddings to shops around Essex and a further 500 mini-puds to local restaurants and pubs, this remarkable pudding continues to be sold on a yearly basis.  

 

The business of breweries infusing their beers with food products is still a cottage industry at present, but in recent years a growing number of breweries have joined the bandwagon, working with local and national food producers to create their own innovative creations; over the years, we have seen a whole manner of beers innovated with food, from marmalades infused with IPA to cheddar cheeses flavoured with bitter and fruit cakes macerated with strong ale. There’s even a growing selection of snacks to choose from beef jerky, pork scratchings and crisps, that are flavoured with all manner of beers. The possibilities are endless, and in the ensuing years as more breweries release their own beer flavoured food products, perhaps we’ll see a surge in productivity and availability as these products become available on a wider and potentially national basis.




Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Beer Review: McEwans Champion

Brewery: McEwans


Style: Strong Ale


ABV: 7.2%


Location: Edinburgh, Scotland


Aroma: A whiff of fruitness instantly invades the senses, with notes of berries, cherries and figs all in the mix. A background of a caramel comes through, along with a strong hint on banana. 


Colour: Deep ruby red, with a two-finger tan coloured head.


Flavour: A pleasant oak like bitterness is immedietely noticeable, assaulting the tongue with every sip. The background of banana is evident, along with hints of sweetness the help offset some of the bitter notes. There are traces of sherry in the background, which is quite understandable given its scene. It is aided by a creamy mouthfeel, with good lacing around the glass.


Verdict: A potent yet thoroughly enjoyable beer with plenty of flavour and personality. With it's multi-layered notes of banana, oak, sherry and caramel, it could easily compare to a Belgian tripel or trappist beer. This is a drink to savour slowly and not to drink a hurry. It is easy to see why this is a classic drink north of the border.


Rating: 8/10




Wednesday, March 06, 2024

The Rise of Fruit Beers (Part 3)

The new decade marked a new era with the craft beer movement quickly gathering pace that would soon revolutionise the brewing industry. Early on in the year, Beartown released Peach Melbear (4.7%), a peach flavoured blonde ale made especially for a Wetherspoons Spring Beer Festival, it proves popular enough, to eventually becoming a part of their regular range. Whilst, Marble Beers looked to Belgium for influence when it unveiled both Decadence Frambrozen (8.7%) and Decadence Kriek (8.7%) as part of their decadence range; and Saltaire responded in kind with Cheeky Kriek (4%) a cask special made with cherries concentrate rather than real cherries, described as a very English take on the Belgium classic. Meanwhile Waen was awarded Silver by SIBA Wales for their Blackberry Stout (3.8%), at the Dudley Winter Ales Festival and Chocolate Orange Delight (5.8%) won a pair of plaudits, winning Beer of the Festival at both Salisbury Winter Fest, and the Croydon & Wallington Beer Festival respectively. In the Summer, BrewDog made early experiments into Fruit Beer production with the limited releases Prototype 27 (9.3%) and Abstrakt AB:03 (10.5%) which featured fruit being aged with beer in whisky casks. With the summer beer festivals in full flow, a number of beers won awards, Amber Brewery continued their dominance in a specialist category at GBBF when they won Gold for Chocolate Orange Stout (4%), St Peter’s gained a the coveted Champion Beer of East Anglia for Fruit Beer – Grapefruit (4.7%), Lemon Dream (4.5%) won Festival West Midlands Beer of the Year, Chocolate Cherry Mild (3.8%) was awarded beer of the festival at the Aberdeen Beer Festival. At the Egham Real Ale & Cider Festival, the fledging Kissingate Brewery featured Black Cherry Mild (4.2%) as a festival special, Paul Davies described this beer as “a deeply dark ruby beer that hints at its delicious flavours with an aroma rich with hops, caramel, port and raisins. The taste is bitter with an almost bakewell tart almond flavour from the whole cherries.”[1] It proved popular enough to be brought on as a regular fixture, winning a number of awards for the brewery. Towards the end of year, Green Jack debuted Red Robin (4.1%) made with raspberries and cinnamon which becomes part of their regular range, whilst in November, Hydes released Plum Treat (4%) a limited seasonal special, they would subsequently rerelease it for the Wetherspoons Spring Beer Festival the following March.

 

The subsequent year saw some major beers making their debuts that would help shape the growing reputation for fruit flavoured beers in years to come, in February, Titanic Brewery unveiled Plum Porter (4.9%), first brewed initially as a one off seasonal, it has become one of the most highly decorated and widely sold fruit beers ever produced in the UK, sold widely in supermarkets and pubs around the country. Mark Briggs notes “the intense aroma has rich, dark, stone fruit, caramel malt and a hint of roasted grain. Plum, blackcurrant, caramel, dark chocolate and a hint of liquorice are flavours that are identified. They all married to perfection.”[2] It has been described by Boak and Bailey as a British answer to a Kriek or Frambroise, whilst Anabel Smith interjected “it was a revelation, in a class of its own. Yes, it had a fruity juicy plummy undertone, but it was exquisitely dry and rich without that cloying, syrupy flavour exhibited by so many fruit beers.”[3] This beer has become a bestseller for the brewery, it remains a high seller in both cask and bottle[4]; in its first year of sale alone it made a big impact, selling out early at the Coven Beer Festival, and awarded beer of the festival at Long Eaton, Redditch & Bromsgrove and Middlewitch respectively. The beer would subsequently win a vast haul of gongs in the ensuing years, it could easily be dubbed as the flagship bearer for British fruit beers. The following month, at the annual Wetherspoons Spring Beer Festival, alongside Hydes’ Plum Treat (4%), other fruit beers also featured, Caledonian unveiled Doc Kennedy's Lipsmacker Lemon Ale (4.3%), Slater’s released Raspberry Beer (4.5%) and Maravilla (4.5%), the latter would go onto win Gold (Speciality) at the Peterborough Beer Festival that year; whilst Mauldon debuted their Blackberry Porter (4.8%), it becomes such a hit with punters that it becomes a regular part of the brewery’s portfolio as a seasonal beer, sold in both bottle and cask. At SIBA National, Blueberry Classic Bitter (5%) won the coveted Best Speciality Beer award, shortly after their win, sales manager Greg Bolton noted “drinkers have tried the blueberry and raspberry and come back saying have you got anything different. The fruit beers make it a more open market and they are getting ladies to try cask ales and then they make the move on to other flavours.”[5] At the Southampton Beer Festival in June, Lemon Dream (4.5%) was awarded Silver at the Southampton Beer Festival, while Bramble Stout (5%) gained a Gold award (Speciality) by West Midlands CAMRA.  Later that year in August, Dark Star released their 1st fruit beer Seville (4%) that utilized bitter Spanish oranges, whilst Wychwood dabbled with the fruit beer market with Cherry Picker (4.2%). At GBBF the same month, Chocolate Orange Stout (4%) continued its run of awards acquiring Silver (Speciality). The following month, on 5th September, Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog, launched their Elderflower Ale (4%) otherwise known as Ysgawen in Welsh, it was initially sold as a seasonal ale through the Summer months, before becoming a regular part of their range. The brewery once described it as “the beer exhibits a superb floral bouquet and a delectable sweet citrus finish.” It has gone on to becoming one of their more popular beers, winning a slew of awards both in Wales and internationally.

 

As 2012 dawned, the winds of change were seeping in. The craft beer movement which established itself in the US, was gathering headwind in the UK. Dave Graham noted at the time “the definition of craft beer, a term that has its origins in the US, is much less precise.  It is beer produced for taste rather than volume. Such beers, which include many real ales, are known for their quality, diversity and full flavour.”[6] The production of craft beers was a contentious one for the likes of CAMRA, as unlike real ale which involves a secondary fermentation in the cask/ bottle, it was only fermented once during the primary stage under pressure using CO2, then filtered into kegs for dispensing. Moreover, the rise of craft beers encouraged people to shun traditional ‘sessionable’ beers over more artisanal products, changing the image of real ale forever. For the domestic production of fruit beers in the UK, this development proved to be a game changer, as a more brewers were encouraged to produce fruit flavoured brews. Wild Beer Co. was one of the early pioneers of the craft beer movement, which established production that year when they started brewing in the kitchens at Westcombe Dairy in Somerset using three oak barrels and a manual bottling kit initially, one of their early releases was Ninkasi (9%), named after the ancient Mesopotamian goddess of beer, it was brewed as a Belgian style Saison imbued with wild yeast and the juice of freshly harvested Jorngold apples, the beer has been described as a fabulous take on the classic Saison style, with blogger Alcohol & Aphorisms noting “there are lots of light fruit flavours in there, calling to apples, apricot, gooseberry and more. The flavours float and sparkle (and not in a bloody twilight way). Full of flavour but never heavy.”[7] Sold on tap and 750ml bottles, the beer continues to be one of their flagship products. Meanwhile in March, Bradfield Brewery released their first fruit beer Farmer’s Plum Bitter (4.4%) that has since been sold as part of their seasonal range and Ilkley debuted Siberia (5.9%) a Saison flavoured with Rhubarb that combined continental tradition with Yorkshire’s iconic fruit, available in keg and bottle this beer continues to be sold as part of their regular range. With the fruitful Summer season in full swing, Moonshine unveiled Strawberry Fairy Queen (3.6%) a golden ale flavoured with strawberries; at GBBF that August, Chocolate Cherry Mild (3.8%) won its most prestigious award to date when it won Gold in the specialist category, whilst Chockwork Orange (6.5%) won a pair of awards including Silver (Best Strong Ale) – Chelmsford Beer Festival, and Best Strong Beer – SIBA East, Lemon Dream (4.5%) won beer of the festival at Woolston and was award Bronze – SIBA Supreme Champion, Elderflower Ale (4%) also won a haul of awards including 1 Gold Star at the Great Taste Awards and Gold (Speciality) and Bronze (Overall Champion) at SIBA Wales. Later that year, Waen introduced Chilli Plum Porter (6%), that went onto become a regular release for the brewery, and as the Olympic year drew to an end, Pitfield first released Raspberry Wheat (5%), Buntingford debuted Blueberry Fields (3.8%), the newly opened Quantum Brewing released Blackberry Stout (5%), Wentworth released Plum Pudding Stout (4.7%) and Robinson’s dabbed their hand in the fruit beer market with their Tom & Berry (4.6%) a winter ale that utilized a combination of their classic Old Tom (8.5%) with berries to create a lip-smacking and full bodied winter warmer, it met with a high level of demand upon its release, and it has since reappeared as a seasonal fixture for the brewery around the festive period.

 

By this time, the rate of breweries releases had grown tenfold from the previous decade, Roger Protz noted at the time “fruit-flavoured beers are enjoying a great boom in Britain according to the market research group AC Nielsen. Sales grew by a remarkable 80% over the past year, making it the fastest-growing sector of the British beer market.”[8] It was become increasingly clear that British drinking tastes were beginning to diversify as the demand for flavoured beers increased and more breweries were committing to releasing fruit beers. In February 2013, Otter Brewery joined the fruit beer bandwagon, when it released Seville Bitter (4%) as part of their series of beers celebrating the fruits of the season, that subsequently included the likes of Orchard Ale (4%), Bramble Bitter (4%) and Velvet Ale (4%) respectively. In April, two Scottish brewers BrewDog and Brodies unveiled their collaborated brew Tayberry Berliner Weisse (5.2%), subsequently BrewDog soon went onto produce their Blitz series of fruit flavoured Berline Weisse beers beginning with Apricot and Raspberry. On June 13th, Thornbridge introduced Melba (5.2%), a peach IPA that soon becomes a semi regular fixture at the brewery, whilst the same month Mordue’s released A’l Cherry Pet (4.1%) a Belgian influenced cherry wheat beer. Meanwhile at the Maidstone Beer Festival, Lemon Dream (4.5%) was awarded beer of the festival, whilst at the annual beer of the year awards hosted by Coach House Brewery, Titanic’s Plum Porter (4.9%) was presented with 1st place. Purple Moose continued their run of awards with their Elderflower Ale (4%), when it awarded 2* at the Great Taste Awards, Silver (Speciality) at SIBA Wales, and two gongs at SIBA National, including Silver (Speciality) and Bronze (Speciality Bottled) respectively. That Summer saw the release of Shnoodlepip (6.7%) created in collaboration between Burning Sky, Good George and the Wild Beer Co, which Ben Watts described “a red wine barrel-aged saison, this is then given a healthy dose of hibiscus, pink peppercorns and passionfruit to produce a super funky, fruity and sour beer that is just mindblowingly good.”[9] This beer has subsequently been re-released on annual basis. On June 13th, Thornbridge introduced Melba (5.2%), a peach IPA that soon became a semi regular fixture at the brewery, whilst the same month Mordue’s released A’l Cherry Pet (4.1%) a Belgian influenced cherry wheat beer. Meanwhile at the Maidstone Beer Festival, Lemon Dream (4.5%) was awarded beer of the festival, whilst at the annual beer of the year awards hosted by Coach House Brewery, Titanic’s Plum Porter (4.9%) was presented with 1st place. Purple Moose continued their run of awards with their Elderflower Ale (4%), when it awarded 2* at the Great Taste Awards, Silver (Speciality) at SIBA Wales, and two gongs at SIBA National, including Silver (Speciality) and Bronze (Speciality Bottled) respectively. In May, Kernel released Sour Raspberry (4%), that subsequently became a regular release. Meanwhile, later that Summer, Beavertown unveiled Damson Sour (3%) whilst Axholme Brewery released a range of fruit flavoured beers including Pumpkin Porter (4.3%), Plum Dunkelweizen (4.7%) and Elderberry Stout (4.5%) that were available on seasonal release in both cask and bottle. At GBBF, Black Cherry Mild (4.2%) won Silver (Specialist category), it would go onto win three years in a row. In October, Wild Beer Co. released Redwood (5.8%) a Flanders Red Ale that celebrates the harvest replete with hedgerow fruits including sloes, blackberries and elderberries, it has been annually re-released each Autumn. Meanwhile, Alpha State released Orange Zest Farmhouse IPA (6.7%), Slater’s released their winter ale Mad Jaffa (7%) flavoured with orange peel and nutmeg, Buxton debuted Red Raspberry Rye (4.9%) a Berliner-Weisse beer flavoured with Raspberries that became in draught and bottle for a few years, Elgood’s debuted both Cherry Stout (4.1%) and Cherry Wheat Beer (3.6%), the latter would go onto win a slew of awards and become a regular fixture for the brewery. Moreover, Titanic added Cherry Dark (4.4%) to their growing roster of fruit flavoured beers, once described as a liquid Cherry Bakewell, it has since reappeared as a Winter seasonal, and sold in can. 

 

The year 2014 saw a fruitful harvest of success, in January Beartown announced the release of Bluebeary (4%) a golden ale infused with blueberries which was initially released as a special, it went onto become a regular fixture in their range in both cask and bottle respectively. Later that same month, Moor Brewery launched their Amoor series of fruit beers, featuring the likes of Sloes, Victoria Plums, Cherry and Damson (all 4.7%), whilst Blue Monkey released Chocolate Orange Guerilla (5%), a variation of their established Guerilla Stout (4.9%), which would go onto become a regular feature in their repertoire. At the Wetherspoons Spring International Real Ale Festival, two festival specials would go onto greater success, Mauldon’s Lemon Adder (4%) which subsequently featured as a seasonal release for the brewery, and Elgood’s Plum Porter (4.5%) that latterly drew a popular response from punters, and it was soon added to the brewery’s main range in both bottle and cask. Elgood’s continued their initiatives into fruit flavoured beers the following month when they unveiled Coolship Fruit (5%) an English style take on the lambic beer produced with raspberries and blackberries, matured using the traditional method of maturing in two open copper cooling trays (or Coolship vessels) as used by lambic brewers in Belgium. According to Adrian Tierney-Jones, the brewery had two coolship vessels installed in the 1920’s, they were inspired to create a lambic beer after an American visitor spotted the coolships in situ, and suggested they brew a lambic beer with it. He added “the result is this tart and softly acidic beer, grapefruit-like in its embrace, daubed with a soft sweetness and gifted with hints of sherry.”[10] Jeff Evans noted it had “floral notes, sultana fruitiness and an oaky, drying backnote add to the complexity before a dry, acidic, fruity finish that leaves the palate tingling.”[11] This beer would subsequently become a flagship fixture for the brewery, winning a slew of awards, and it was soon available in bottle for regular release which continues to this day. Meanwhile on the awards circuit, Elderflower Ale (4%) won a trio of titles including 2 stars at the Great Taste Awards, Bronze (Speciality Bottled) at SIBA National and Bronze at the International Beer Challenge; whilst Chockwork Orange (6.5%) gained global recognition when it won beer of the festival in Belgrade and Silver at the Hungary Beer Festival. Meantime was awarded Silver (Fruit Wheat Beer) for their Raspberry Wheat (5%) at the World Beer Awards out of 37 entries, Art Brew gained Silver (Speciality Light) for Raspberry Pale (4.4%), Moonshine gained another award for Chocolate Orange Stout (6.7%) winning Champion Speciality Beer of East Anglia[12] and Titanic’s Plum Porter (4.9%) was awarded 1st place (Beer of the Year, Specialist) by West Midlands CAMRA, and Black Cherry Mild (4.2%) won Gold at GBBF in the specialist category. In May, St Austell Brewery unveiled Tamar Creek (7.3%), an idiosyncratic named brew named after the River Tamar that was produced in the style of a Kriek, matured in the lambic style in oak barrels and infused with 50 kilos work of whole cherries from Bohetherick Farm near Saltash for six months; the finished result head brewer Roger Ryman (whom used to work at Heather Ales) described “pours ruby red and has a quite tart, vinous taste that’s balanced by the fruit to create something not far off a fine vintage port.”[13] And the following month, Bateman’s released Orange Barley (6.2%), brewed with oranges and natural cane sugar made that made its first appearance alongside several other their beers from their at the London Wine Fair that month, the brewery was part several brewers participating in Brewhouse, a dedicated tasting area showcasing the latest craft beers. Sophie Atherton noted at the time “it's exactly the right time for a beer section at a wine trade event because of the growing interest in high quality beers and in pairing beer with food.  It's something that other brewing cultures - like the US and, of course, Belgium - are already making the most of.”[14] Later that year, Thornbridge debuted both Cherry Brown (6.5%) and Slezak (4%) an Apricot ale made especially for the Cask Pub & Kitchen’s 5th birthday celebrations. Beavertown dabbled with various fruit infused sours with launch of their Phantom series featuring the likes of Lemon Phantom (3%), Yuzilla Phantom (4.5%) and Kona Passion Fruit Phantom (3.2%) stretching the bounds of innovation. Whilst the Wild Beer Co. released several more fruit beers, including Wild Goose Chase (4.5%) a saison made with gooseberries, The Huntress (4%) a Belgian style ale blended with damsons and plums, Indigo Child (8%), a gooseberry sour made as part of the Rainbow Project[15], and Rubus Maximus (5.6%) a sour made with raspberries, long pepper and nine grains in collaboration with Beavertown Brewery. Meanwhile in December, Twickenham Fine Ales released Cherry Stout (4.7%) a limited edition number sold as part of their Small Batch series, the beer proved popular enough to return the subsequent Christmas.

 

The following year would prove pivotal for the development of fruit beers made in the UK, the year started off with Bridgehouse releasing Cherry Choc (6%), an oatmeal stout made with morello cherries. There was lemony theme going on at the time with the likes of My Darlin’ Lemontime (3.6%) - Glamorgan, Sleeping Lemons (4%) – Wild Beer Co., and Lemon Drizzle (3.7%) – Waen, the latter which would go onto win multiple awards including SIBA Wales & West, SIBA National. Meanwhile, Moonshine released Raspberry Porter (4.5%) which contained a blend of their award-winning Night Watch Porter (4.5%) with raspberries which is still sold on a seasonal basis, along with the likes Passion Fruit Pale Ale (4.3%) and Raspberry Wheat (4.5%) as part of their 13 Moons of 2015 series which were exclusively brewed on the dates of the full moon. In April, Kissingate debuted Powder Blue (4.5%), a blueberry porter that would go on to win beer of the festival at Redhill Beer Festival later that year. Later that Spring, the fledgling Anspach & Hobday experimented with the likes of Cranberry Smoked Porter (5.4%), Frambroise (4.5%) and Sour Tangerine (4.9%). With, the summer season approaching, Meantime produced Strawberry Saison (6%), a Strawberry and Cream themed beer for Wimbledon Tennis Championships, made with real strawberries. The beer was chance for the brewery to experiment with seasonal flavours, which Ciaran Giblin (head of quality and innovation at Meantime) described “we’ve taken the very best seasonal British fruits, malts and hops to create a wonderfully unique and refreshing summer brew.”[16] On the awards circuit, Elderflower Ale (4%)continued to dominate, winning Silver at the International Beer Challenge, Silver – Champion Beer of Wales and 1 Gold Star at the Great Taste Awards. Orange Wheat (4.2%) won a pair of gongs including Overall Champion at the Norwich Beer Festival and Champion Speciality Beer of East Anglia, whilst Lemon Drizzle (3.7%) won Bronze at the SIBA Wales and West competition. Meanwhile, Brewdog continued to experiment with fruit beers, with limited releases including Lizard Bride (5.5%), Raspberry Riptide (9%), B-Side Mango & Habanero Barley Wine (10.4%), and on 17th July, Brewdog unveiled Peach Therapy (9%) a Belgian style sour tripel, infused with peach and apricot with Mandarina Bavaria and Strisselsplat hops, created and brewed in collaboration with beer writers Adrian Tierney-Jones, Matt Curtis and Jonny & Brad from The Craft Beer Channel during a two day  visit to their brewery earlier that year, the finished article was as the brewery described a mind-blowingly complex mic of aromas and flavours. At GBBF the following month, fruit flavoured beers dominated the pole positions of the Specialist (CBOB) category, with Plum Porter (4.9%) – Titanic and Black Cherry Mild (4.2%) – Kissingate, winning Gold and Silver respectively. Later that month at the Durham Beer Festival, Plum Porter (4.9%) scored again gaining Silver, with Lemon Dream (4.5%) acquiring Bronze respectively. Moreover it was good year for Elgood’s, Cherry Wheat () won Gold (Speciality Bottled) at SIBA East, with their Coolship Fruit (5%) acquiring Bronze in the same category. The latter beer also won awards including Europe’s Best Sour Beer at the World Beer Awards, and Silver (Specialist) at the International Brewing Awards held in Burton-upon-Trent. Marketing director Claire Simpson remarked at the time “to be awarded the Silver Medal in the Speciality category for one of our newest beers is wonderful, especially as we are competing against such tough international competition and were up against nine other Lambic/Sour beers from Belgium and the USA.”[17] Later that year, Kernel released a range of fruit flavoured beers including Sour Raspberry Victoria Plum (4.1%), Imperial Brown Stout – Raspberry (9.8%), Apricot & Thyme (5.1%) and Export Stout Raspberry (6.4%), the latter example would go onto become a regular release. And the Wild Beer Co. initiated their Amuse series of fruit sours featuring the likes of Gooseberry, Apricot, Cherry and Rhubarb (all 5.4%). It was becoming quite clear by now that fruit flavoured beers were becoming increasingly more popular and commonplace, spearheaded partly by the craft beer boom. Lexi Finningan noted “a generation of young people are now shunning the big, low-flavour brands dominating the UK market, seeking out more artisanal products instead.” [18] The tide was turning for fruit beers as up and coming breweries sought to move away from using fruit merely as an adjunct in sessionable beers and increasingly turned towards utilizing fruit in the likes of Sours, Gose and Saisons. Moreover, fruit beers were more frequently turning up in more artisanal, limited-edition releases, made to a higher ABV and standard to their early counterparts. Over the course of the past few years, fruit flavoured beers had by now become firmly entrenched as a ‘beer style’ and increasingly these home-grown examples were gaining plaudits from the industry both in the UK and abroad.

 

The development of fruit flavoured beers in the 20-year period between 1995-2015 is merely a microcosm of the development of the brewing industry in general. Since the turn of the century, brewers have increasingly diversified their ranges, incorporating the likes of fruit and spices in their brews and expanding upon the range of beer styles. The audience for real ale has also expanded, with younger people and women increasingly taking to beer drinking, thus growing their target market. Moreover, there has been a substantial increase in the number of breweries opening up in the UK, between 2013-15 alone there was a 30% increase in the net growth of breweries. In the CAMRA Beer Guide 2016, Roger Protz wrote “more and more new breweries have been launched to keep up with the demand for full-bodied, full-flavoured beers. Britain now has more breweries per head than any other country and the range of beers on offer is the best in the world.”[19] As of 2022, there 2,426 breweries operating in the UK, ranging from national majors, long-standing regional brewers, brewpubs and microbreweries. With the increase in breweries, comes a increasing diversification of styles, Protz added “gone are the days when a brewery made just one or two different beers, as brewers expand their repertoires to include porters, stouts, IPAs, fruit beers, or even beers aged in wine and whisky casks.” The rise of Fruit Beers produced in the UK is a good example of this, from its origins in the mid Nineties when breweries tentatively released fruit flavoured brews that were generally marketed towards beer festivals or limited-edition seasonals and were often unfairly dismissed by critics as being crude and inferior in comparison to their established Belgian counterparts. To the boom years of the Noughties, when fruit flavoured beers increasingly became featured as regular fixtures and the likes of Lemon Dream (4.5%), Banana Bread Beer (5.5%), Chocolate Cherry Mild (3.8%), Fine Raisin Beer (5%), Blueberry Classic Bitter (5%) and Fruit Beer – Grapefruit (4.7%) helped cement the status and reputation of fruit flavoured beers. In more recent years we have seen the likes of Titanic’s Plum Porter (4.5%) becoming highly acclaimed by drinkers, sold to hundreds of pubs and supermarkets across the country, gaining wide industry recognition and acquiring a huge haul of awards. Even on the world stage, British made fruit beers have increased in international prominence, with the likes of Coolship Fruit (5%) help leading the charge to even greater success.

 

The rise of craft beer has irrevocably changed the brewing industry and real ale in general, as breweries have looked to producing more artisanal products incorporating a greater range of ingredients and styles such as Lambics, Gose, Saisons, Berliner Weisse and Sours; fruit flavoured beers have followed along with this change and have increased in greater abundance over the past 15 years. Nick Moyle once remarked that it didn’t seem long ago that you had to travel to Belgium to find a decent fruit beer, but with the rapid transformation of the UK brewing industry since the millennium he added “but times in the brewing world have very quickly changed and brewers from other countries are not only mimicking those Belgian ales, but also bunging ripe fruits into any kind of beer they can think of.”[20] Although if you look the rise and development of fruit flavoured beers produced in the UK, brewers have not merely aped the Belgians but have incorporated the use of fruit into established domestic beer styles likes Bitter, Porter, Golden Ale, Stout, Pale, Wheat Beer and Mild; thus, creating a uniquely British take on fruit beers. This confusion arises because in more recent times with the rise of craft beers, brewers have taken to adopt continental beer styles into their repertoire, with the likes of Vault City, Brew York and the Little Earth Project in more recent times gaining praise for their innovative creations. Yet it is the regional brewers that continue to be successful both domestically and internationally, in more recent times newer beers like St Peter’s Plum Porter (5%) have won Gold awards at the Global Beer Masters 2021 and Asia Beer Challenge 2023; Belhaven was awarded Beer of the Year for Twisted Grapefruit IPA (5.3%) at the Scottish Beer Awards 2018; Pennine Brewery have won awards at SIBA North-East 2021 for Life’s a Lemon (3.9%) – Silver, Cask Speciality Light Beers, and Black Forest (4%), Regional Bottle/ Can, Sours and Spontaneous, the latter would go onto win a Silver in the same category at SIBA North-East a year later; Black Sheep have gained a slew of gongs for their Choc Orange Stout (6.1%) including 3 Stars – Beer Awards 2017, Bronze – International Beer Challenge 2019 and Gold (Bottle & Can Speciality) – International Beer Awards 2019; Thornbridge received gongs for Days of Creation (7%) and Love Among the Ruins (7%) at the World Beer Cup 2016 winning Gold and Silver (Wood & Barrel Aged Sour Beer) respectively; and Maxim’s Raspberry Porter (5%) has won several gongs including Gold (Speciality Mid-Dark Beer) at SIBA North-East 2018 and 2019, Silver at the BBI Awards 2021 and Bronze (Speciality Mid-Dark Beer) at SIBA North-East 2021. Fruit beers produced in the UK, have gone a long way in the past fifty years from being a reviled curiosity to becoming an acclaimed and revered staple on the real ale and craft beer scene.




References 

[1] ‘A trip to Paradise in West Sussex’ by Paul Davies, Beer Sommelier Kew, 25th April 2015

[2] ‘Mark Briggs Beer of the Week - Titanic Plum Porter’ by Mark Briggs, Lancashire Telegraph, 25th August 2022

[3] ‘Something for the weekend – Titanic Plum Porter’ by Anabel Smith, Cask Marque, 29th March 2018

[4] Such was its appeal, that in 2016, a stronger version was also released called Plum Porter Reserve (6.5%).

[5] ‘Warrington based Coach House Brewing Company wins prize’; Warrington Guardian, 14th March 2011

[6] ‘2011 – A Craft Beer Odyssey’ by Dave Graham, Pints West, No. 92, Winter 2011/12

[7] ‘Tasting Notes: Wild Beer Co: Ninkasi’; Alcohol and Aphorisms, 11th February 2013

[8] ‘Big surge in fruit beer sales: up 80%’ by Roger Protz, Protz on Beer, 30th July 2012

[9] ‘A Spotlight on Wild Beer Co.’ by Ben Watts, We Brought Beer, 7th February 2017

[10] ‘10 of the best sour beers in the UK’ by Adrian Tierney-Jones, Telegraph, 1st July 2015

[11] ‘Elgood’s Brewery’; All About Beer, 10th July 2014

[12] It would go onto win Champion Speciality Beer of East Anglia twice more, in 2015 and 2017 respectively.

[13] ‘Cornish cherry beer is up the Kriek’ by Roger Protz, Protz on Beer, 10th May 2014

[14] ‘Brewers trial new beers at LWF Brewhouse’ by Felicity Murray, The Drink Report, 2nd June 2014

[15] A project initiated in 2013 by seven bases breweries around the world, to produce beers inspired by the colours of the rainbow.

[16] ‘Meantime gets in Wimbledon mood with strawberry saison beer’ by Nigel Huddleston, Drinks Retailing, 24th June 2015

[17] ‘Elgoods Coolship Lambic Style Beer wins Gold medal at International Brewing Awards 2015, Elgoods Brewery, 17th February 2015

[18] ‘Thanks to the hipsters, has the Campaign for Real Ale pulled its last pint?’ by Lexi Finnigan, Telegraph, 31st March 2016

[19] ‘Britain's beer boom goes roaring on’ by Roger Protz, Protz on Beer, 10th September 2015

[20] ‘10 best fruit beers’ by Nick Moyle, The Independent, 30th August 2018