A Drink to Ol' Rabbie

Last Saturday was Burns Night, that annual celebration where people around the world celebrate the poems and songs of Robert Burns, one of Scotland’s best-known poets. To mark the occasion a number of pubs were organising their own events from special meals to poetry readings, yet the most unusual event I discovered locally was a Scottish Mini Beer Festival at Two Trees Micro in Watford. The relatively diminutive pub has been operating in the area since 2022, it offers a frequently rotating selection of four cask ales and keg beers/lagers from independent breweries, along with a good selection of ciders and perries, and for the discerning traveller there are a good selection of bottles and cans to take-away. Due to the size of the place, unlike most pubs it doesn’t offer food, yet snacks are available, although you can bring in food from outside. Since opening the pub has gained a following in the local community, winning a slew of awards including Pub of the Year 2023 (Watford & District CAMRA) and Pub of Year Competition 2022 (Watford Observer) for instance. Their Burns Night event was effectively a (partial) tap takeover with beers appropriately from Scottish breweries available on tap, which the landlord had installed on stillage fresh that very day. 

 

Accompanied by my friend Graham, as we entered we were met with a display of bunting that bared the Scottish flag, and on the tables, there were informative leaflets that gave information on the six Scotland based breweries along with tasting notes for the beers that were available that day, and music from Scottish bands and artists were blaring from the loudspeakers. At the handpumps, there were three Scots ales available on cask, and several further on keg as well Whiskies and Scottish themed snacks, although the latter was a bit misleading as there were only Tunnocks Tea-cakes available, complementary with every drink. There were beers of varying strengths and styles available, so appropriately I went for a lighter ale to start off with Orkney Best (3.6%) from Swannay Brewery based in Birsay, Orkney. A light sessionable bitter, the brewers describe it as a lunchtime beer due to its relatively modest strength. The beer is made with traditional British malts and an unusual hop combination of British, German and Polish hops, and over the years it has become one of their most successful products, winning a slew of awards including Champion Beer of Scotland (2012) for instance. To cut to the chase, it was refreshingly light, and rather malty with a slight nutty bitterness rumbling in the background, along with a dash of hops that helped extenuate its lack of strength, but nonetheless the flavour profile was evenly balanced, meanwhile the mouthfeel was biscuity and dry, though the relative lack of a head did it no favours. Overall, I found it decent for a session level ale, nothing too remarkable on the flavour front, but a decent enough drink to help start off the proceedings. For my next beer, I decided to take it up a notch, and went for Jarl (3.7%) from Fyne Ales, which operate from a converted farmhouse in Argyll. One of the best known beers to come out of Scotland in recent years, markedly it was one of the first Scottish beers to use Citra hops when it came on the scene in 2010 and since its launch it has become of the most successful Scottish beers, winning Champion Beer of Scotland no less than three times (in 2013, 2021 and 2022) and other accolades including Bronze (CBOB 2013), Gold – Golden Ales (CBOB 2013), Gold – Cask Standard Bitters and Pale Ales (SIBA Scotland 2017). It’s hardly any surprise it has become the brewer’s flagship product, and can be regularly seen on handpumps in pubs across the UK. The beer had a fluffy off-white head, which helped energize it luscious and creamy mouthfeel. Despite its low strengths, a circus of flavours was immediately apparent, with notes of citrus fruits and grassiness coming through from the Citra hops, whilst the malt bill of Pale and Torrified Wheat helped ground the flavours, giving off hints of caramel and breadiness.  The mouthfeel was verging on the dry, yet it was evidently refreshing, the thick head helped offset some of the dryness and helped bring the flavours to the fore. Understandably I found the beer quite enjoyable, and despite its relatively low strength, it is evident that the brewers have put in the effort to make it flavourful; and as a beer/ food pairing it particularly went well with the Curried Mutton which I purchased from the Caribbean take-away across the road.  

By this time, there was only one cask beer left on tap that I hadn’t sampled yet. I went for Henok’s Mild (5.3%), a recent collaboration between Edinburgh based Newbarns Brewery and Omnipollo from Sweden. A strong dark mild, I was frankly mystified by its range of favours, on the foreground it was filled to the brim with mulled fruits, with notes of coffee and chocolate coming through from the malt, with just a hint of lactose rumbling away in the background. It had a noteworthy roasted bitterness, without it being too overbearing, and it was rounded off with a smooth and creamy mouthfeel. Unlike the other beers I tried today which are regularly brewed, and available in both cask and bottle, this beer was only sold in cask and likely to be on limited releases, so it could very well be my only chance to sample this rare beast. The beer’s status as a mild rather frankly confusing, it’s complex array of flavours and mouthfeel veered more towards Porter/ Stout territory and its strength was anything but mild, I enquired the landlord about this, and he stated that mild beers tend to use milder hops, though they can still vary in strength. This throws the entire status of Mild into doubt, and further muddies the already murky waters of dark ales, perhaps a conundrum to solve at a later date? Scotland uniquely has its own beer styles, they are historically based around the Shilling system where the strength of the beer would calculate the price per hogshead, this ranged from Light (60/-), Heavy (70/-), Export (80/-) and Wee Heavy (90/- plus). Scotch ales are another name for strong ales and tend to be over 6% abv, they are similar in character to Burton Ales, Stingo and Barley Wine and have a mature, fully rounded flavour with a kaleidoscope of notes and a warming effect brough on by its high strength. The place was starting to fill up with punters as I sampled was 180 Shilling (12%), a recent collaboration between Holy Goat Brewing of Dundee and Newbarns. Produced alongside a selection of four limited edition Winter releases, it is based on a 17^th century recipe for Scotch Ale, in order extract its strength, it is put through the mash tun twice which helps concentrate the wort and produces a high ABV beer without the need of additional sugars. Adhering to tradition, the brewers utilize Chevalier Malt, a once common variety that was commonplace in most beers during the 19^th century, it was discontinued following the introduction of mechanical harvesting processes in the 1920’s, where the relatively small heights of the stems made it unsuitable for harvest.  It has since been brought back following the efforts of Dr. Chris Ridout from the John Inns Centre (that boasts a large selection of heritage malt varieties) who planted a crop, to see how it would fare in modern brewing. Since 2017, a clutch of breweries have produced small batch beers using this malt, and having never tried sampled a beer made with this malt, I was eager to sample it. Due to its high strength, it was only sold in halves and thirds, so understandably I went for the latter. I was met with a cacophony of flavours, including notes of sherry, whisky, oak, brandy, berry fruits and a whisp of marmalade. There was a notable caramel sweetness flowing in the background, whilst the bitterness was subdued and melded with the other flavours to create a unique tasting experience. The richness from the malt was notable, and its high strength helped complement it, yet although it was on the strong side, it wasn’t too overwhelming as Scotch Ales go, and it was akin to drinking a fine wine or a low strength spirit. This beer was a like a trip back in time, a faithful recreation of the Scotch Ales that propagated pubs during the Victorian Age.

 

In retrospect I found this event to be a success, the range of ales available were carefully selected and thorough researched, it was evident that the staff put their effort in to source the best quality examples from north of the border. I sampled a fine range of ales, from sessionable bitters to popular well-known releases, strong dark milds and a Scotch Ale that provided a window into the past. Each of the beers provided a different and unique drinking experience, furthermore none of them were bland and unassuming in any way. I have tried several Scottish beers in the past, but I’m still relatively vague and naive in my knowledge of Scotland’s brewing industry. So, this mini-beer festival not only offered the opportunity to discover more about Scotland’s illustrious brewing sector, it also gave me the unique and rare chance to try these beers on cask, where they would otherwise be seldom available in England. This event proved to be a popular draw for the micropub, attracting a slew of customers throughout the day, let’s hope that the owners put on more themed events throughout the rest of this year as this could be a potentially worthwhile enterprise, I’d definitely drink to that!

Birds and Beers

Between the 24th - 26th January, the RSPB’s annual Big Garden Birdwatch is taking place, the largest garden wildlife survey to take place in this country, where enthusiasts are encouraged to record the number of each bird species in their gardens in order to paint an overall picture of how the various bird populations fair around the country. This scheme has been going strong since 1979, and during that time, breweries from around the country have also played their part in supporting and promoting the UK’s rich and varied range of avian species. An early supporter was Cotleigh Brewery, launched in the same year as the inaugural big garden bird watch, they started off with a 5-barrel beer plant at Cotleigh Farmhouse in Tiverton (hence the name), where they launched their first release Tawny Owl (3.8%) a traditional best bitter, its tawny colour was influenced by the brown/ buff plumage of its namesake and one of the UK’s most common owl species. The beer subsequently went onto become one of their benchmark products, and was later joined by the likes of Harrier (4.8%) in 1982, Barn Owl (4.5%) in 1994 and latterly Golden Seahawk (4.2%) in 2001, along with numerous other examples. A number of these bird themed beers over the years tend to be split into two camps, these include common birds that tend to reside in suburban and wetland areas like Robins, Blackbirds, Magpie’s, Robins, Ravens, Swans and Mallard Ducks, and conversely rare and elusive birds that are less common and tend to be located in rural and coastal areas like Red Kites, Oystercatchers, Golden Plovers, Little Terns, Nutcrackers, Bustards and Wrynecks for instance. Whilst many breweries may have one or two beers on their books with links to birds, some breweries have named their entire range after birds like Thames Side or From the Notebook for example. Indeed, a number of breweries tend to name their beers after local bird species, and some have even gone to the lengths of donating some of their proceeds to local wildlife charities and conservation groups. In their own way, breweries have played their part in supporting this county’s rich and diverse bird population.  

 

If you ever come across a beer named after a bird species, chances are its likely to be localized within 30 miles of the brewery’s vicinity. A notable example is Avocet (4.1%) by Exeter Brewery, one of their flagship regular releases first launched in 2008, it is a session bitter made with organic ingredients including several types of hops. The beer was named after the Avocet, a wading bird frequently seen in wetland areas, it is a common site in the Exe Esturary, just several miles south of the brewery. Meanwhile, the Red Kite is frequently seen soaring above the Chiltern Hills with its distinctive red-brown body, angled wings and forked tails that gives its name. This in turn influenced the likes of Vale Brewery (based in Brill) to produce Red Kite (4.3%) a chestnut-coloured bitter, made with three malt varieties (Pale Planet, Crystal and Roasted Barley) for body, along with Northdown and Brewers Gold hops for flavour, together they impart a distinct looking beer with a strong bitter aftertaste. Likewise, Black Isle and Grainstore have also produced beers under the same name, since these birds of prey can also be found around the Midlands, Wales and parts of Scotland. Grainstore have also developed Rutland Osprey (4%), a zesty light golden ale, it was influenced by the ongoing conservation efforts in Rutland Water since 2015, where there has been a drive to reestablish the first Osprey population in England for 150 years.  Coastal and upland birds have also featured in local brewery ranges, over in the Wirral, Brimcage Brewery was established by Neil Young (not the rock star) in 2006 to celebrate the area’s rich history. Two of their regular releases are named after birds that reside around the wetlands and sandbanks in the area including Sand Piper (3.6%), a light golden ale influenced by its namesake that resides in Wales, northern England and Scotland during the Summer months, and latterly Oyster Catcher (4.4%), an oyster stout that echoes the distinctive black and white plumage of the wading bird that is traditionally found in coastal areas, particularly during the Winter, although the population has gradually moved further inland due to overfishing of cockle beds. Over in the Pennines, Bowland Brewery similarly has named its regularly produced beers after its local wildlife population, including its rich array of birds of prey, including Hen Harrier (4%) a golden ale named after the bird due to its historic preference for hunting fowl, and Pheasant Plucker (3.7%) a session level bitter with a balanced malt/ hop ratio in aroma and flavours, a multi award winner it has become one of the brewery’s most noteworthy products, the pump clip features the likeliness of the male pheasant with its distinctive golden brown plumage, dark green head and red facial wattling. Meanwhile deep in the Norfolk broads, one of the county’s most prominent brewers Woodfordes has been noted for naming a number of its beers after historic Norfolk traditions and icons since first coming on the scene in 1981; seasonally during the Autumn months they release Once Bittern (4%), an beer with a terrifying brew of five malts (Maris Otter, Pale, Caramalt, Crystal and Red Crystal) and four hop varieties sourced from across the world (Goldings, Savinjskis, Mouteka and Nelson Sauvin) which impart a distinctive amber red colour and notes of citrus and spice. A tongue in cheek reference to Vampires, which are closely associated with Halloween, its name also has a double meaning as its named after the Bittern, an shy and elusive thickset heron who commonly reside around the reedbeds of Norfolk, particularly during the Winter period.  

 

To most individuals, many of the birds named and featured in these themed beers are on the whole obscure, unless you happen to be ornithologist. Most ordinary folk are more attuned to common garden birds like robins, magpies and blackbirds than the rare elusive species that are seldom known. Magpie Brewery based in Nottingham town centre has a number of garden birds appearing on their pump clips and brands, which is alas unsurprising given their name, which comes one of the UK’s most distinctive and widespread bird species with its notable ‘iridescent’ black and white plumage, it resides in 600,000 territories, only being absent from northern Scotland. Three of their beers are named after the Magpie, these include Best (4%), Hoppily Single (3.8%) and latterly Thieving Rogue (4.5%) which helps promote the ongoing myth that Magpies like stealing shiny things, first popularised by 1815 opera The Thieving Rogue by Rossini. Likewise they also have on their books, Raven Stout (4.4%) and its fruiter sister Cherry Raven (4.4%) named after the Common Raven, a frequent sight in suburbs and cites with 10,000 breeding pairs registered only in 2016, along with Jay IPA (5.2%), a golden traditional British style IPA with fruity and aromatic flavours, made with indigenous hops. Its colourful flavours help echo the equally viridescent appearance of its namesake, a member of the crow family, it is noted for its brown body and its blue, white and black tipped wings; seen in 170,000 territories across the country, though they tend to prefer woodland areas they can be occasionally seen in gardens. Moreover, the Goldfinch with its colourful markings has made its way onto numerous beers, like Goldfinch (3.4%) by Black Isle, a gluten free session IPA, its uses a kaleidoscope of ingredients to make up for its low strength using a five malt base and a bouquet of hops including Citra, Nelson Sauvin, Simcoe, Chinook, Cascade and Pacific Gem hops that give it a tropical fruity flavour along with a citrussy finish. The beer somewhat eerily echoes the appearance of a Goldfinch, despite its relatively small stature, it has a bright red face, buff and cream plumage along with yellow wing patches, helping it stand out from other common garden birds. Yet out of all the species of birds that has attracted the most attention from brewers happens to be the humble Robin; it is noted for being one of the country’s friendliest, favourite and commonly garden birds, appearing in around 6.7 million territories, their numbers are bolstered during the winter months with arrivals from northern Europe and Russia migrating to the UK; their frequency around this period and their notable red breasts, has helped made them the subject of thousands of Christmas cards over the decades. Similarly, around the festive season, a good number of breweries utilize the Robin as the emblem for their beers, for example Red Robin (4.1%) by Green Jack is annually released every December, based on a old Irish red ale recipe, it is produced with crystal malt that helps give its distinctive hue, rich, fruity and malty flavours; furthermore, it is topped up with cranberries to help give it some added depth. Similarly, there have been other examples like Rockin Robin (4.8%) by Staffordshire Brewery made in conjunction with Cottage Delight, Bobbin Robin (5.8%) a stout produced by 8 Sail and likewise Stout Robin (4.6%) by Basham, described as a dark Norfolk stout developed with a rich blend of British malt varieties and malt to give its distinctive bitter notes and rich berry aromas. Its name is derived from the term that stout is another word for strong or proud. The name also denotes the brave and friendly temperament of the Robin, which is frequently seen around gardens in the UK and are sometimes tame enough to be fed by hand.

 

Whilst a good clutch of bird themed beers are named after common garden birds, there are a good deal out there that are labelled to more obscure and elusive species that are harder to find. Hexham based brewer Allendale, has produced several beers that named after rare birds, and by coincidence are brewed to signify the distinctive appearances of these birds. For example, Black Grouse (4%), a smoked porter that is sold on a seasonal basis, easily echoes the distinctive black plumage of the grouse sub-species that is commonly found in rural parts of northern England, whilst Golden Plover (4%) is a multi-award-winning pale ale made with the unique combination of Hallertau Hersbrucker and Columbus hops that helps give its distinct aromatic and citrussy taste. It could be argued that its appearance was influenced by the bird’s notable golden and black plumage which it has during the Summer months. Meanwhile north of the border, Orkney Brewery based in Quoyloo in the heart of the Orkney Islands, has a number of beers on its books named after birds frequently seen in the area. These include the likes of Puffin Ale (4.5%) a best bitter made with Brambling Cross and Targets hops. It has a distinctive malty flavour with profound notes of spiciness on the back end and hints of dark fruits such as blackcurrant. Described as clowns of the sea or sea parrots due their comical appearance (which consists of bright orange legs, black-red eye markings and elongated bill), locally they are known as Tammie Norries; they are mainly seen in coastal areas, particularly around northern Scotland and the Orkneys. Likewise, the Corncrake is another rare and elusive bird that is seen in the islands where it migrates to during the Winter months, they featured on another of the brewery’s regular releases Corncrake (4.1%) a golden ale that uses a mixture of British and New World hops (Stryian and Goldings), that helps impart a biscuity yet fruity flavour with notes of citrus, apricot and peach. The RSPB currently list the Corncrake’s conservation status as red, and when the beer was first sold in bottle in 2012, the brewery donated part of the proceeds for the sale of each bottle towards the RSPB. Further south in Aviemore, Cairngorm Brewery has had the distinction of featuring one of the most elusive birds in the country on one of their beers. In 2011, the brewery marked 50 years since the ski runs in the Cairngorms were first established with the release of White Lady (4.7%). In a throwback to its Alpine links, it was produced as a Wheat Beer, with notes of roasted malt, orange peel and coriander which are closely associated with this style. The name has a double meaning, as the pump clips features the likeliness of the Ptarmigan, a grouse that develops white plumage during the Winter months. Suited to tundra and upland areas, it is often resident in the highlands of Scotland, particularly during the Winter, where it’s suited to the 'arctic landscape' around the area, where they also breed. The brewery wryly mentions in their publicity that the bird is known for its love of the high life. Yet sightings of this bird are rare, with only around 2000 breeding pairs accounted for and it is currently listed as red in its conservation status.

 

On the whole, most of the breweries previously mentioned have one or several beers named after birds in their ranges. Yet there are some out there, that have dedicated all (or most of) their entire range to these winged creatures. Thames Side Brewery based in Staines upon Thames is a good example of this; founded in 2015 by CAMRA member Andy Hayward, at the time it was noted for being the first brewery to open in the town for 80 years. Their links to its riverside location are deeply entrenched, even to point of recently relocating to larger brewing site at the Two Rivers Retail Park, which is equidistance between the Rivers Wraybury and Colne that encircle the complex, and only 0.4 miles from the River Thames. All of their regular and seasonal beers are named bird species that frequently located in wetland areas within the vicinity of the town. Their core range includes Egyptian Goose IPA (4.8%), a traditional English IPA that uses British hops (including Fuggles and Goldings) for flavour, these water birds get their name as they originally hail from sub–Saharan Africa; Heron Ale (3.7%) an easy drinking session bitter with a balance malty flavour, Herons prefer to reside in freshwater and coastal areas, they are a common site in the wetlands of Berkshire and Oxfordshire; and White Swan (4.2%), a new world IPA that is made with Chinook and Columbus hops that helps give it a distinctive citrus flavours, out of all the waterbirds within the region, the Swan is perhaps the most iconic of bird species in the local region; closely linked to the River Thames, not only are they protected by the crown, every year an annual ceremony called Swan Upping occurs where mute Swans are caught, tagged and marked as part of an annual census that monitors their population and overall health.  Meanwhile other seasonal examples have included Harrier Bitter (3.4%), a light session bitter, it is traditionally made with Fuggles and Goldings, then it is topped off with Cluster hops which are dry hopped and added to mix late in the brew, this helps give the beer some added lift and punchiness in its overall flavour, its pump clips notably feature the likeliness of the Marsh Harrier that is commonly seen around the reedbeds and marshlands of southern England; Wryneck Rye IPA (5.6%) a tongue in cheek reference to its name, it uses Rye malt along-side its hop mixture of Cascade, Nugget and (dry hopped) Chinook hops that helps give it a classic West Coast IPA flavour, named after a species of Woodpecker, it gets its moniker from its ability to turn its neck 180 degrees; and lastly Black Swan Porter (4.6%), a traditional London style Porter, made with brown, chocolate and crystal malts, that helps give it’s distinct roasted flavours along with hints of chocolate and coffee and a dash of Fuggles and Goldings hops for added bitternes; a multi award winner, its appearance echoes the large waterbird’s distinctive black plumage, peppered with white flight feathers and a red bill. Moreover, the likes of From the Notebook Brewery takes the distinction of being the most closely associated brewer with the various wildlife conservation charities and organisations. Established in Northumberland in 2012 by Graeme Denton and Chris Bowler, markedly Denton a former biologist and CAMRA member was inspired to set up a brewery that would feature beers based on the various wildlife found in the nearby Farne Islands. Together he worked with Bowler, a wildlife enthusiast to produce these beers. Their distinctive notebook branding style hails from the field sketches birdwatchers would frequently jot down in their notebooks, inspired the work of Stewart Sexton who donated some of his drawings to a number of their beers, whilst artist Steve Poole was tasked with designing their cans. Their regular range includes Eider (4.2%) a stout noted for its malty overtones and chocolaty finish, it is named after the UK’s heaviest and fastest Duck species, it mainly resides in coastal areas; Puffin (3.8%) a best bitter that uses US Pioneer hops to give it a sharp bitter taste followed by a mellow caramel background; Kittiwake (4%) a Pilsner style blonde ale that has a gentle flavour, the beer celebrates the bonding process of adult Kittiwakes at the start of the breeding season, they are common site in coastal areas around Northumberland and Tyneside for instance;  Arctic Tern (6%) a hoppy and feisty English IPA, Golden in colour,  its golden hue symbolizes the migration patterns of the Arctic Tern, which flies through areas which have greater hours of sunlight, and is known for travelling up to 70,000km per year; and its younger brother Little Tern (4%) a pale ale named after one the UK’s rarest birds and smallest member of the Tern family, who typically breed and reside around coastal edges in the early Summer months. All of their beers celebrate the beauty and diversity of nature, and rather unusually for a brewery, they extensively work with wildlife conservation charities and organisations; a portion of their proceeds go towards these groups, from 10p a bottle to 10% of the company’s total profits. Organisations like the Marine Conservation Society, The Little Tern Recovery Project, White Stork Project, British Trust for Ornithology and Nottinghamshire Wildlife Trust have benefited from their takings over the years.

 

Overall, there is a rich and varied array of beers out there produced by breweries based all over the country that celebrate the UK’s diverse range of avian species. A common theme that comes about is a good deal of these brewers tend focus on bird species found in the locality of the brewery, for instance the likes of Orkney, Bowland, Grainstore and Brimcage name all their bird themed beers after local birds, such as Rutland Osprey (4%) which is inspired by the Osprey conservation project in Rutland Water, and Puffin (4%) which is named after a common resident in the Orkney Islands. Meanwhile other breweries have turned to more common garden birds for inspiration, Robins particularly spring to mind and have featured on a number of seasonal ales released around the Christmas period like Stout Robin (4.6%) which celebrates the braveness of the one of the UK’s most-friendliest bird species. Although it seldom to find any brewery that would name most or their entire range after birds, inspired by Cotleigh’s pioneering efforts, there have been some brewers out there that have carried on the tradition, like Thames Side who name all their regular, seasonal and limited-edition releases after various species of birds that are found within wetland areas located within the vicinity of the brewery. Meanwhile, the likes of From the Notebook have gone even further, not only are their beers named birds (and other wildlife), they also feature sketches of the creatures in their artwork, and have gone to lengths of donating part of their proceeds to various charities and organisations in their ongoing efforts to support wildlife conservation. So, when you’re out in the garden this weekend, and have sat there for hours surveying your local bird population, the ideal tipple for the occasion following a long day’s toil would have to be a bird themed beer.

Beer Review: Theakston's Triple Hop

Name: Triple Hop

Brewery: Theakston

ABV: 4.3%

Style: Best Bitter

Location: Masham, North Yorkshire

Aroma: Profoundly malt forward with some hints of hops in the background.

Colour: Deep amber brown with a thin white head that quickly dissipates

Taste: A profoundly bitter flavour dominates, the trio of hops compete for attention without being discernable, a malty background is noticeable with some hints of fruitiness going on and notes of bready like qualities. The mouthfeel is close to watery, but not too gassy, it imparts a dry, biscuity feeling on the tongue. 

Verdict: A reasonable take on a northern style best bitter, the lack of a head was real letdown as it affected the overall mouthfeel, could it be down the condition of the beer perhaps? There is a definate bitterness that dominates, but the hoppiness seems a little on the flat side, one interesting element is the fruitiness in the background which gives it a distinct edge. Not a fantastic beer at any costs, probably served best at the handpump with a good sparkler. 

Rating: 6/10

Twelfth Night Pub Crawl

With the last vestiges of the Christmas season ebbing way and the thoughts of excessive portions of turkey a distant memory, a weatherbeaten quintet of us descended on the mean streets of Battersea for an 8-mile meander through wind and rain towards to the centre of power, Westminster, for one last toast to the season. We emerged bleary eyed at Clapham Junction just short of midday, and following a quick repast at Golden Pie, arguably one of the finest pie & mash eateries west of Bow Bells, we soon disembarked to our first port of call at The Falcon. I have visited this pub often during my previous trips to the area, and after nearly a five-year gap, in felt like a welcome return to an old haunt. An imposing Grade II listed pub dating from the 19^th century, it was originally built as a hotel, and its splendid architecture is evident both inside and out. As soon as you enter, you’re hit with a kaleidoscope of decorous features, from its distinctive oak panelled central bar which is purported to be the longest in UK, and designed by the artist M.C. Escher; the Romanesque columns with gold fluting, a pair of skylights with elaborate floral designs, a set of stained glass mirrors encircling an elaborately carved oak gantry that harks back to the Neo-Jacobite revival of the period and over at far end of the bar there is a preserved set of snugs, ideal for having a quite drink, even at the busiest of times. Although the pub is run by Nicholsons, there was an impressive selection of real ales and ciders, which included the likes of Doom Bar (4%), Landlord (4.3%) and Sussex Best (4%). The latter was served at a good temperature, although the barrel was a bit on the stale side, which is unsurprising given the quantity that is served at this pub.

We were soon on our merry way, sauntering downhill towards the northern fringes of Battersea. We soon disembarked at our 2^nd pub of the afternoon, The Lighthouse. A bustling public house adjacent to nearby Battersea Park, the pub was full to capacity when we arrived, so we resorted to drinking in the pub’s expansive and covered beer garden. The pub dates from c.1873, originally known as The Clock House; little of its original Victorian architecture has survived, aside from its oak panelled bar and some shelve fittings. Since its current owners The City Pub Co. took over, the place has been extensively renovated with modern fittings, showing off a flurry of low hanging lighting, diner style seating and bare brick walls that reveal the extent of the original mid-Victorian redbrick structure. This pub is catered specifically towards dining and has a family orientated aspect which explains why it has become so popular. Although it would never make pub heritage status, it is clearly a product of the times, as pubs strive to make ends meet in these difficult times for the industry. The pub boasts a small yet eclectic real ale selection, along with a range of keg beers. Since we were in Young’s territory, I went for their Winter Warmer (5%) which was available on cask. A well maintained and gloriously flavoured beverage, it was distinctly warming on the back-end along with a melodious chorus of mulled fruits and spices trailing away in the foreground, the ideal drink to wish good harvest for the months ahead. After travailing for over an hour in a zig-zag fashion across the River Thames through the driving rain, as darkness descended, we belatedly sought refuge at The Morpeth Arms in Pimlico, on the fringes of Westminster. Built in c. 1845 for the wardens of Millbank Prison, its position was a useful vantage point just in case any escaped prisoners were spotted. Currently owned by Youngs, the pub has a number of notable late 19^th century fixtures, including its distinctive octagonal oak panelled bar with geometric designs, a semi-circular display of ornate mirrors with art nouveau designs, embossed wallpaper with a fleur-de-lis design and an imposing clock that bares a distinctive gold vine-leaf pattern around its contours.  The pub is relatively small in size, and the two drinking areas which formerly consisted of the public and private bars can be still glimpsed, although today a hallway links both areas; intriguingly, the pub also boasts a hidden area known as the haunted vaults, and the upstairs private rooms are appropriately named the Spying Room, with good views of the MI6 building over the river. The real ale selection unsurprisingly was dominated by Young’s beers., although there was the old guest ale at hand. Rather appropriately given its location I went for Ghost Ship (4.5%). Although it was flavoursome, with a distinctive citrussy hoppiness, it was served close to lukewarm, which banished any hopes of a refreshing zing to realms of eternity.

 

Soon we were back on our travels, quickly passing through Westminster Abbey and the House of Parliament, subsequently we sauntered due west along the fringes of St James Park when we arrived at the imposing art deco complex of the former TFL headquarters at 55 Broadway. The building has been left vacant since 2020, and is currently being turned into a luxury hotel, although if you go around the street, vestiges of its illustrious past can be seen, through the sheer number of drinking establishments that would have been popular with TFL workers during many a lunch break and evening. We eventually settled on The Old Star, situated immediately opposite the former offices. Now a Greene King pub, it is one of many pubs owned by the brewery chain in the Westminster area. A distinctive three-floor building, undeterred by the mass re-development surrounding it, the pub boasts a basement bar area, replete with dining tables discretely situated within its former vaults, with original stone-clad flooring that harks back its heritage. Meanwhile the ground floor boasts a unique split-level structure that is seldom seen in pubs, a distinctive panelled bar lines the vicinity replete art deco flourishes, surrounded by a procession of thin columns that encircle it. Similarly, the ceiling has a distinctive geometric design which harks back to the period when the pub was extensively refurbished. As you go upstairs there is an there is an upstairs function room called the Boundary Bar which can be accessed via a passage way situated by the front entrance. Designed by Fitzroy Robinson & Partners with Sir Basil Spence, this construction was a tad more austere and brutalist in style compared to the majestic Victorian era buildings we encountered earlier on in the day, but nevertheless it was a refreshing relief. As it was a Greene King pub it was dominated by their beers and those of their many subsidiaries, which include the likes of Abbot Ale (5%), Old Golden Hen (4.1%), Greene King IPA (3.6%) and Rocking Rudolph (4.2%). Since it was the last day of the Christmas season, it was difficult to resist the temptations of sampling one more seasonal offering before packing away the baubles. Although rather sessionable in strength, it was profoundly malty with a hint of spice in the back-end. Undeniably this beer is a classic fixture that is seen in many of Greene King’s pubs during the Christmas period, although I have seen it in a few free-houses as well during my travels.

 

It was getting close to supper time as we glided across Trafalgar Square, passing by the woeful Norwegian spruce that resembled something plucked out of a pickle jar. On the outskirts of Charing Cross Station, we disembarked at our terminus, The Sherlock Holmes. Situated near Scotland Yard, and various other locations along Northumberland Avenue that were frequented by Holmes and Watson in the eponymous novels, the pub blatantly cashes in on its local icon. Despite its supposed chocolate box Victorian style appearance, it was built relatively recently by Whitbread in 1957, as a themed pub for tourists. To this day, the pub continues to live up to its promise, and it is a veritable cornucopia of Holmes memorabilia from a stairway passage that boasts posters from movies, TV shows, plays and novels baring Holmes’ likeliness, to its extensively decorated replica of Holmes front room at 221b Baker Street, which was rescued from an exhibition at the 1951 Festival of Britian. Downstairs, the pub features a number of fittings reclaimed from former pubs that date from a variety of time periods, such as its distinctive oak panelled hexagonal shaped bar that dates from the Edwardian era, surrounded by a tiled floor with brass rail, replete with carved pillars that hold up an overhead gantry, which feature a procession of individual frosted framed windows with a central star motif. Polygons seems to be a reoccurring feature at this establishment, from the octagon shaped clock situated by the rear of the bar with its roman numeral time piece, to the 3-dimensional octagonal shaped chandeliers that line the windows, which clearly date from around the time when the pub was constructed. Indeed, the establishment features an eclectic range of lighting fixtures such as the mixture of globe and teardrop bulbs that line that bar, modern strip lights along the stairway, lantern lights above the exterior windows and a notable globe lamp with a brass frame. Moreover, the pub boasts three separate drinking areas, along with upstairs dining area called The Sherlock Holmes Room. Meanwhile in keeping with its Victoriana theme, the floors are lined with wood whilst decorous stained-glass windows line the vicinity; some of the window’s date from the 1950’s or earlier whilst others situated by the alley-way are of a more modern design, which is although is at odds with the other windows, in its own right it is a worthy design of its own merit.  Currently the pub is owned by Greene King, and a number of their beers feature prominently on the handpumps although it also includes a pair of beers from it’s in-house ‘nano-brewery’, including the likes of Sherlock House Ale (4.3%) and Sherlock London Porter (4.6%). I went for the latter, which was a welcome relief after a day full of drinking pale ales and malty flavoured bitters. The porter was rich and smoky, with a distinctive roasted malt element though dry in mouthfeel, it had some hints of strength and was by a definition a classic example of the style that was once popular all over London at the time when the Holmes stories were published.

 

Overall, the pub crawl was a satisfying way to end the Christmas season, even-though most of the pubs weren’t researched beforehand, each establishment that we visited that day provided a fascinating slice of history, from the likes of The Falcon with its M.C. Escher designed bar counter, to The Morpeth Arms which was constructed for the prison wardens at Millbank Prison to The Old Star, an one time haunt for office staff from the former TFL HQ; the city of London has a vast number of pubs with its own notable claims to history, and ones we visited that day only skimmed the surface. Moreover, the pubs we visited all had unique architectural aspects that made it differ from other establishments, none of the public house we found were bland and formulaic, they each provided a fascinating patchwork into London’s rich quilt of historic pubs, which make for a great excuse for a long days’ walk around the capital.