Beer Review: Nethergate Suffolk County

Name: Suffolk County

ABV: 4%

Brewery: Nethergate

Style: Bitter

Location: Long Melford, Sudbury

Aroma: Roasted malt with a bed of berry fruits and caramel rich toffees.

Colour: Deep chestnut brown with a one finger ivory coloured head.

Taste: You're immedietely hit with a rush of roasted malt that brings about elements of buttered toast and a discernable nuttiness, this is followed by a hoppy background with a herby, grassy bitterness that gives off a warming effect on the throat. The creamy mouthfeel adds to the experience of this medium bodied bitter.

Verdict: A quaffable bitter with bags of flavour, showing more strength than its low ABV would suggest. Its rich malt and hop flavours hit all the right notes, and are turned up to 11 on the flavour scale. It has a wide and varied palate of flavours and aromas that show off the very best of the brewers craft, it is easy to see why this beer has won many awards. Although it is promoted as a bitter, it is closer to winter warmer in its temperament making it the perfect fireside ale.

Rating: 10/10

Searching For the elusive Dark Mild

Back at GBBF last August, Mild (3.6%) from Penzance Brewing Co. won the lofty accolade of Supreme Champion Beer of Britain. You’d thought by now that the popularity of Dark Mild was increasing, yet unlike other beer styles it remains hard to find in pubs. Although in the past decade it has made a resurgence, in London alone only a dozen or so pubs sell dark mild regularly on tap, these include several Samuel Smiths houses, a couple of Fuller’s pubs (The Harp – Covent Garden, Ye Old Mitre – Holborn); The Wenlock Arms, Hoxton; The Bohemia, Finchley and two Harvey’s Pubs (The Royal Oak – Borough, The Cat’s Back – Wandsworth) for instance. During my extensive travels to pubs around London over the last year I only encountered a Dark Mild on tap only a handful of times. Back in January, during a visit to the Dog & Bell, Deptford; at the far end of its impressive cask line-up was a rather dejected looking Marble Mild (4.1%) – Marble Beer Co., which was missing its pump clip, so the staff had to make do with a makeshift one scrawled in chalk instead; this hardly would attract punters into buying pints of this beer. A few months later during the Mild May month, a scheme set up by CAMRA to encourage more pubs to sell Dark Mild, I encountered Black Swan Mild (3.9%) – Vale at The Mossy Well, Muswell Hill; a sprawling two-storey branch of the Wetherspoon’s empire that is often packed to the rafters. Despite it being a busy Friday evening, I was determined to order a pint of mild. Despite its relative low strength, it had rich roasted flavours with a nutty chocolatey quality seeping through on the backend. Having often been sceptical of this beer style, I was quite surprised by the quality of this brew.

 Later that same month, I tried Flying the Mags (3.4%) – London Brewing Co. following a tour of their brewery based within their headquarters at the Bohemia, Finchley. Originally sold as a May special, it has recently gone onto become a regular along the permanent cask selection. Although it was on the weak side, it made up for this shortfall with its rich and flavoursome roasted malt notes with a whisp of caramel in the background, it is easy to see why this beer has become a popular draw with customers. Towards the end of Summer, during a flying visit to the Plume of Feather’s, Greenwich; I saw by chance some Black Prince (3.9%) – Wantsum; named after Prince Edward of Woodstock (the eldest son of King Edward III) who was supposedly known for his black shield and brutal manner in battle, whichever theory stands. Conversely, this beer was not as fearsome as it’s namesake, it was relatively mild in flavour with only a dash of malt holding up the rear, making hardly anything to rave about. This beer was sold a guest ale, indeed quite a number of free houses, micropubs and craft tap-rooms around London occasionally sell a Dark Mild on guest, though the instances of finding one is relatively scarce. For some time now, I’ve been aware that The Royal Oak in Borough sells Dark Mild (3%) – Harvey’s regularly on cask, though I have seldom tried it during my many visits to this place. On this occasion, feeling a little worse for wear following a hefty luncheon at M. Manze, I sought to placate my jaded appetite with a half of something light. This beer was reassuringly light in body, though oddly creamy in mouthfeel, I could sense some nutty malt flavours coming through, despite its low-strength. It was a worthy brew that could easily hold it own against its stronger contemporaries along Harvey’s eclectic range of beers.

It dawned on me that day why some people are attracted to this beer style; while it may be low in the ABV department, it more than makes up for it with its distinctly malty flavours, which is reflective of the brewer’s craft. It is the ultimate easy drinking beer, yet in a city dominated by session bitters, roasty dark and mysterious stouts and hop-forward citrussy IPA’s, the whereabouts of the Dark Mild remain elusive. It was once described by one commentator as the forgotten beer style, and that label has sadly since stuck. It seems its resurgence among brewers in the past decade has become futile in the sea of intense competition from other beer styles. People may lark on about the likes of Mild May month all they like, yet this initiative has hardly led to revival of popularity for this style. Like the shy and elusive Bittern that occasionally stalks the Norfolk broads, for much of the year the humble Dark Mild only sporadically appears on a tap in any given pub that does cask, and until there is an unexpected uptick it will remain that way.

Beer Review: East London Brewing Co. Quadrant Stout

Name: Quadrant

ABV: 5.8%

Style: Stout

Brewery: East London Brewing Co.

Location: Lea Bridge, London

Aroma: Roasted malt, toffee, charcoal, berry fruits, smokiness, hints of sherry.

Colour: Deep midnight black with lively tan coloured two fingered head.  

Taste: A strong roasted toasty malt is immedietely apparent, followed by a treacle like caramel sweetness. Hints of coffee, milkchocolate and a grassy hoppiness with a generous lingering bitterness that gives it a dry edge. A silky smooth mouthfeel evident from the use of oatmeal, medium bodied, a touch on the fizzy side that leaves an uncomfortobale effect on the palate.

Verdict: A lively bottled conditioned beer, so much some of it nearly went all over me as it gushed out of the bottle, I was able to recover a sufficient amount though, this is probably a fault in the secondary fermentation stage. Flavour wise it is a clash between bitter and sweet, its a rollercoaster ride starting with roasted malt, then lashing of sweetness followed by a finale of charcoal like bitterness. Its a curious beast of a beer that take a bit of getting used to.

Rating: 7/10

Memorial Beers

Back in November, Vale Brewery released their latest product Into the Void (4.1%), in tribute to the late Ozzy Osbourne who died last July. The beer was named after Black Sabbath’s 1971 hit, it was developed by head brewer David Renton, a huge Sabbath fan who created this beer in tribute to the prince of darkness, it is described on its pump clips as a Sabbath stout. In the wake of Osbourne’s passing, a number of other breweries produced tributes, including Paranoid (4.1%) by Stourbridge based brewers Green Duck, named after Sabbath’s breakthrough single, its pump clip features the skull adorned throne that Osbourne was sitting on during his homecoming concert at Villa Park. Likewise, Bark at the Moon (6.66%) by Dark Revolution, was inspired by Osbourne’s 1983 hit, uses NZ hops that were harvested on 14^th March 2025 during a rare double occurrence of a lunar eclipse/ blood red moon, during a 24-hour window. The beer was subsequently brewed on a full moon, and released in October, dedicated to Osbourne’s memory.

 

Over the years, a number of breweries have developed their own memorial beers for the departed. In the world of entertainment, following Tina Turner’s passing in May 2023, the following month, Kent Brewery produced Simply the Best (3.8%), made in honour of the passing of the Queen of Rock ‘n’ Roll, rather appropriately it was a best bitter, named after the title of her 1983 chart topper that subsequently became her signature song. Another luminary of the music industry Gord Downie was memorialised in beer form in the wake of his death in October 2017, when two breweries based in Halifax (Canada), Rock and Garrison Brewing Co. collaborated to produce Courage for Gord Downie (6%) in memoriam to the late frontman of the band Tragically Hip, notably one of the best-selling bands in Canada. Initially 2000 bottles were anticipated for a small batch release, this figure was later upped to 6000 for national distribution. $1 from each sale was donated to the Brain Tumour Foundation of Canada and Indigenous people’s reconciliation. Going stateside, in early 2022 Odd by Nature Brewing released Thank You For Being A Friend (6.2%), it was originally planned to celebrate the centenary of actress Betty White, who unfortunately passed away a few weeks before reaching the big 100, so it ended up being a memorial release instead. The can feature’s White’s likeliness bursting out of a birthday cake, an inspired by the title song of ‘The Golden Girls’ which she starred in throughout its successful 7 year run. More recently, Hulkmania Forever (4.2%) debuted at the WWE’s Wrestlepalooza at Lucas Oil Stadium, Indianopolis, made in collaboration between WWE and Real American Brewery, it was created in memory of Hulk Hogan who died last July, its name was inspired by the marketing craze he promoted as his fame exploded in the early 80’s. The beer was sold in limited edition cans featuring his likeliness, a dedicated toast was also featured at the event. Closer to home, the Fulford Arms brewery in Winchester developed Golden Jet (?) in memoriam to Jet Harris, one of the founding members of The Shadows. It debuted at the Winchester Beer Festival held at Queen Inn, Winchester in May 2012. It was sold to boost funds for the Jet Harris Memorial Fund which was set up in the wake of his death, launched to support Cancer Research UK’s UK’s probe into the Cancer of the Unknown Primary (CUP). Ironically, Harris was teetotal later in life, after overcoming a battle with alcoholism.

 

Aside from famous people, various local heroes have also been the subject of tributes. Keith Alecroft (4.2%) by Cross Bay Brewing, was created in memory of well-known local musician Keith Ashcroft who died in November 2020, during his lifetime, Ashcroft played at the Morecambe Music Festival on a yearly basis, and taught at local schools, and Promenade Music. At the Morecambe Music Festival the following July, the beer was sold in tribute, and subsequently was voted beer of the festival. The following year, Little Mester’s brewery in Sheffield produced Stan (4.6%) in tribute to local knife-maker Stan Shaw who was internationally renowned, crafting blades for clients including Queen Elizabeth II, Elvis Presley and US presidents including George W. Bush. The beer debuted at the launched at Millowners Arms, which is a small pub within Kelham Island Museum where Stan Shaw's knife collection is held.[1] Occasionally tribute beers are inspired by a person’s appearance, like Ginger Beer’d (4.6%) by Four Priests, produced in memory of local beer enthusiast Liam Bridle, manager of The Beer Emporium in Sandbach) who passed away at the early age of 37 in 2023. Head brewer Andy Thompson added grated ginger to the brew in reference to Bridle’s distinctive appearance. The development of the beer was featured in the Channel 5 doc ‘Britain’s Most Scenic Counties: Cheshire’, and later the same year it was voted Beer of the Festival at the Middlewitch Beer Festival. Over in Norfolk, in February 2017, Beers of Europe collaborated with Moon Gazer brewery to release the limited-edition Juggling Jim (4%) series to honour the life of local busker Anthony ‘Juggling Jim’ Bowen who entertained locals in the Kings Lynn area during his lifetime. The beers were essentially repackaged versions of Moon Gazer’s core-range products Ruby, Gold and Amber, with special commemorative labels celebrating Bowen’s and his impact on the town. Moon Gazer later collaborated with another local brewer Barsham in 2022, when they produced Tony’s Tribute (3.9%) in memory of Tony Banham who was notably he was a key figure in the revival of the Maris Otter malt variety during the 1990’s, who saw potential for its future due to the growing band of craft brewers who demanded its brewing qualities and flavour profile. Following Banham’s passing that January, the two brewers approached his son Mark to see if they could develop tribute beers that showcased Banham’s signature malt, he suggested they should combine forces and develop a collaboration beer.

 

Like Banham, a number of luminaries from the world of brewing have been memorialised in beer form over time. In 2020, St. Austell released Tribute XXtra (6.8%) in memory of former head brewer Roger Ryman who passed away in May. [2] A stronger version of his iconic creation Tribute (4.2%), upon joining the brewery in 1999, Ryman helped transform the fortunes of the brewery, introducing popular products like Korev (4.8%), Mena Dhu (4.5%) and Proper Job (4.5%) that have helped propel the brewery into becoming one of the major players in the UK brewing industry. More recently, Hook Norton produced One for the Road (3.4%) a green hop ale created in tribute to Jo Clarke, wife of the brewery’s managing director James Clarke, who passed away last August. The name and pump clip reflects Jo’s love of motorcycles, coincidentally during the harvest, the hops were transported by Mr. Clarke and friends using motorcycles rather fittingly.[3]  Funds from the sale of the beer went to Warwickshire Air Ambulance, who attended Mrs Clarke’s aid following a motorcycle crash. Usually, brewery founders have frequently been under the spotlight of tributes, in June 2018, Oakham Ales debuted One to Yourself (4.4%) at the Rutland Beer Festival that year.[4] It was developed in tribute to the then recently departed John Wood, who established the brewery in 1993. The title is a reference to Morris Dancers, which Wood himself was involved in. The beer uses four Slovenian hop varieties (Fox, Eagle, Kolibri and Cardinal) in reflection of Wood’s drive to experiment with new hops. Meanwhile following Geoff Mumford’s (co-founder of Burton Bridge Brewery) death in August 2024 aged 82, the following May the brewery paid tribute with Mumford Mild (4.2%), the beer paid tribute to Mumford’s contribution to the pub industry around Burton and his wider impact as a purveyor of the independent brewery boom in the UK. The pump clips feature his beloved 1938 Morris Commercial Dray which he frequently used to transport casks to pubs around Burton. Overseas there have been examples of breweries paying tribute to their departed colleagues, Georges IV (8%) by Deca Brouwerij was developed by current owner Nicholas Christianes in memory of his father and predecessor Georges Christianes who died in a car-crash in December 2013. Christianes launched the brewery in 1980 after he brought bought the DECA brewery from the Decaestecker family; the beer is aged for two years in whiskey barrels, in honour of his craft. Moreover, each year the Craft Brewers Association Of Nova Scotia which comprises of several breweries operating in the region, team up to create a collaboration beer. Last year, their latest release Together We Brew 2025 (5%) was a tribute to the late Kevin Keefe, who founded Granite Brewery in 1985, it was notably the first craft brewery in the region. In reflection of the English style brewing techniques which he brought over, the beer was developed as a best bitter, which they described as "bready and full-bodied with a balanced bitterness."

 

In 2019, on the tenth anniversary of Fyne Ales founder Jonny Delap’s passing, the brewery collaborated with Lacons to develop JSD (6%), which was effectively a stronger version of Highlander (4.8%) which was one of Delap’s favourite beers that he developed during his tenure at the brewery (between 2001-9) along with his wife Tuggy. Amplified in strength and dry hopped with Celia and Mount Hood hops, it was exclusively sold as a small batch special. The late Capt. Jack Edwards has an indirect link to the brewing industry, as his daughter Adrienne Hodge runs Bold Republic Brewing with her husband Patrick. When they heard that the National Desert Storm War Memorial was struggling to reach their $40 million fundraising goal to build a memorial, they decided to help out and thus produced Capt. Jack (6.7%) in tribute to Adrienne’s father who was the first officer killed during the Gulf War in 1991. The beer was released on 6th July 2019 at an event held at their brewery, 100% of the profits were donated towards the funding of the memorial. There have been a number of belated tribute beers out there, for instance Brian Clough (4.2%) by Castle Rock, which debuted in 2015 as part of the brewery’s small batch series of beers celebrating Nottingham’s heroes and heroines. The beer celebrates one of the UK’s greatest football managers[5], on the pump clips it features one of his quotes “I wouldn’t say I was the best manager in the business, but I was in the top one.” Initially a limited release special, it has subsequently been resold annually as a seasonal release. On the subject of iconic quotes, John Candy’s memorable appearance as the polka band leader Gus Polinksi in the film ‘Home Alone’ (1990) was memorialised in the likes of Very Big in Sheboygan (6.5%) by Three Sheep’s Brewing Co. The beer was developed after the organisers of the inaugural Sheboygan Film Fest approached the brewery to create a beer for their festival. Since Candy was featured in the opening night screening, the brewers sought to develop something that reflected his iconic quote where he states that his polka band Kenosha Kickers were very big in Sheboygan. Sticking the local theme, over in Chicago, Thrower’s Scotch Ale (7%) was developed by Haymarket brewery in memoriam to local sporting legend Willie Thrower, who notably was the first Black quarterback to the play in the National American Football League as a member of the Chicago Bears. The beer came out on the 20^th anniversary of Thrower’s death, when brewery owner was looking to produce a special beer that could be released around the start of the Bears 2022 season.

 

Over the years, a wide range of people have been memorialised in beer form, from local heroes to luminaries in show business and sports, as well as people connected to the brewing industry including head brewers and former brewery owners/ founders. These beers are effectively the brewing industry’s equivalent of holding a wake, where people would gather round following a funeral, drinking in alcohol and raising toasts in memory of the departed individual. Conversely these beers are a very public form of tribute and have been invariably been utilized to support charitable causes or promoted at local beer festivals. Most these releases would be unfamiliar with readers, since they were generally released on a small-batch limited release, though some have defied this habit and have gone on to be regular/ seasonal releases in their own right, thus creating a lasting legacy. Each memorial beer tells a story, and it is always intriguing whenever a new one is released.

Footnotes

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[1] Unusually for a memorial beer, the beer continued to be produced until last Summer when the alcohol’s industry complaints panel (ICP) upheld a complaint that the pump clip’s imagery contravened a code rule, decreeing that a drink should not display imagery with links to violent/ anti-social behaviour. 

[2] It’s title is a reference to the marking system used by brewers in the 19th century where beers would be labelled by strength. X would mean Single Strength while XX was for double strength and XXX for triple.

[3] The term “one for the road” has a number of meanings, although it’s commonly a byword for having one more alcoholic drink before heading home, the phrase supposedly originates from condemned prisoners travelling enroute from Newgate Prison to the Tyburn gallows, where they were offered one last drink before making their final journey.  It’s more likely a publican’s simple plea to delay departure of a customer, in order to encourage more custom. 

[4] It was appropriately awarded beer of the festival.

[5] He passed away in 2004, over a decade before the beer’s release.