BeerMike : Christmas Classics

When it comes to Christmas beers, a good deal of breweries put out the marketing on overdrive with such pun inducing names like Santa’s Sledgehammer, Prancer the Dancer, Festive Totty, Evil Elf, Christmas Crackling, Tinsel Toes, Scrooge’s Revenge, Reindeer Droppings, Santa’s Little Helper and Merry X-Moose to name but a few. Paul Bailey laments “far too many of today's festive offerings are pale in colour (sometimes even golden!), low in strength and low on taste. The only thing Christmassy about them is the name on the pump clip, and all too often that is a silly pun or spoonerism with a dubious Christmas connection.”[1] Sometimes, these drinks are plastered with spices and other sickly ingredients, Fairytale of Brew York (4.9%) by Brew York is a well-known offender of this practise; with its annual seasonal offerings differing each year, their latest iteration is a milk stout that claims to emulate the Stroopwafel through a dizzying combination of caramel and ‘subtle’ cinnamon spicing. Mark Dexter sums this up “the end of year market becomes flooded with all manner of daftly-named, garishly-labelled bottles, most of which are filled with beers that the head brewers (who have also been temporarily replaced by infant gibbons) know will hardly be consumed after December 25^th, so they really ought not to be the finest ales their company will ever produce.”[2] On that basis then, Christmas beers seem to look crude on the outset, and rubbishy at their worst; in contrast to the great continental Christmas beers produced in Belgium, Norway and Germany which are revered around the world for their excellence and quality, from that viewpoint the British produced examples pale in comparison.

Yet the rush for tacky, pun inducing, poor quality festive beers is only a recent thing, Boak & Bailey notes “the idea of marketing ‘winter warmers’ as Christmas beers really took off in the increasingly competitive real ale scene of the 1980s.”[3] Christmas Beer, or Winter Ales they were better known were not always known for overblown vulgarity, in the distant past Christmas beers produced in the UK were once revered for their quality, and often met with much acclaim when they became available on cask around late November. Martyn Cornell notes “these seasonal beers, generally at 5% to 8% alcohol by volume, have an emphasis on darker malts and sometimes use spices alongside hops, recalling the old heated spiced ales.”[4] Many of these Christmas themed ales were influenced by the warming concoctions developed by publicans during the Winter months, such as Ale Posset which consisted of warmed Ale, bread, milk, ginger and nutmeg; Lamb’s Wool which featured spiced hot ale and apples, and Egg Flip which included hot mild ale mixed with eggs, brandy and nutmeg. The essential premise for Winter beers as Beer Nouveau notes “as autumn and winter approached breweries would brew strong, more full-bodied ales with a bit more of an alcohol flavour to them to help keep drinkers warm through the colder months.”[5] These principles have been maintained by breweries when it comes to producing Winter/ Christmas Beers, albeit to a lesser extent on some cases in more recent times. A few years after the founding of CAMRA, during the early years of the craft beer boom, Christmas themed beers were still relatively scarce. In the book ‘Beer Drinker’s Companion’ by Frank Baillie published in 1973, they were Winter Ales listed, although they didn’t have gimmicky names nor had festive imagery on the pump clips or labels. Boak and Bailey notes “while these beers were all relatively strong and dark, none of them seem to have been dosed with spices”(3) in stark contrast to the slew of heavily spiced contemporary examples. Although many of these classic beers of Christmas past have gone up the chimney and never to be seen again, if you look hard enough, they are some Christmas classics out there that help fly the flag for premium quality British produced beer, here’s a potted guide to a few choice cuts.

Christmas Ale (7%) – Shepherd Neame

First brewed in 1956, it could claim to be the oldest Christmas beer currently produced in the UK. Shepherd Neame state “the seasonal ale boasts warming notes of fruits and spices”[6], it is made with a blend of pale & crystal malts with a combination of Target and Challenger hops for bitterness, along with Goldings for aroma, the recipe is a rather simplified one in terms of ingredients but at 7% ABV it rather strong and is believed to be initially marketed as a Burton style ale when it was first released. The beer is complex and full of character, when enquired about this Mike Unsworth, head brewer at Shepherd Neame noted “Christmas Ale is one of our favourite traditions, a full-bodied, complex beer with hints of spice and mulled fruits.”[7] Indeed, Roger Protz described it as “it has a glowing amber colour with a snowy collar of foam. The deep, crisp and even aroma offers pear drops, marzipan, candied fruit, spicy hops and sweet malt,”[8] whilst Brew Report state “sweetness hits the tongue first, sugary rather than malty. Alcohol warms the palate, enriching the dark plum notes as they emerge. The mouthfeel is syrupy, not gloopy but thick enough to feel satisfying. The finish is spiced and warming: more clove, perhaps allspice.”[9] Despite its great age, this beer continues to win a slew of awards such as winning Gold at the International Brewing and Cider Awards in 2021; and with its timeless Dickensian labelling, this notable beer has outlasted its competitors and is a great survivor of a vanished beer style, the beer is available in both bottle and cask, although the latter is sold at a weaker 5% ABV and is generally only available in Shepherd Neame owned pubs.

Winter Warmer (5%) – Young’s

Although it was first released in 1971, it was actually a rebranded version of Young’s Burton Ale which makes the oldest beer on our list despite only being branded as a festive themed ale since the early Seventies. A ruby coloured beer, it has been a described as a true winter classic that embodies the spirit of the season. In order to get its unique flavour, it is made with a combination of Maris Otter and Crystal malt combining with Fuggles and Golding hops, and Young’s unique sugar cane mix which is added to the boil. Cornell describes it as a ruby-brown classic produced in the style of the Burton Ales that used to be produced in Burton upon Trent, he notes it as “well-rounded, mellow, old-oak dark, 1055 OG, but only five per cent ABV, and with a brown, fruity sugar tang (from the “YSM”, Young’s special, proprietorial mixture of brewing sugars that go into the copper along with the wort) offset by a hint of bitter undercurrent.”[10] KmFlett adds “the fact remains that there was a time in London when the arrival of Young’s Winter Warmer in Young’s pubs was eagerly awaited and celebrated.” [11] Every year, the brewery creates plenty of fanfare when the beer is first released to the public, back in October the inaugural barrels of Winter Warmer were delivered by dray horse to The Lamb within Leadenhall Market, for a celebratory breakfast. With such importance “the Lamb is the sole venue in central London to be holding the first tastings – with the White Cross in Richmond the only other location in the UK.”[12] Despite all the prestige, this beer is only available on casks and is only sold in Young’s pubs on a limited basis, so you’ll have to be quick on the mark to even have a chance of quaffing this elusive brew.

Twelve Days (5.5%) – Hook Norton

A festive themed porter first released in 1992, it’s malty and nutty complex brew is achieved by the combination Fuggles, Goldings and Challenger Hops that are aided with a mixture of Pale, Crystal, Chocolate, and Enzymic malt that adds to intriguing flavour profile. Real Ale Craft Beer describes it as having a warm toffee aroma with a little bit of spice in there, giving you a big hug that aroma comes through in the taste. Simon adds “Spicy, nice and bitter on the back end. It’s not a thin beer, it’s not a beer that you’d want to neck just to refresh yourself”[13]. Although it is relatively low in strength compared to some of other beers on the list, The Beer Nut notes “it's only 5.5% ABV but could pass for a lot more. There's a warmth and a spice to it which, alongside the full smooth texture, is almost reminiscent of Belgian dubbel. The nose is chocolate and figs, with quite a bitter oranges-and-lemons foretaste, settling on the finish into sweet plums and buttery toffee.”[14] Whilst Tim Hampson notes it’s a strong dark beer with the colour of a Christmas pudding, noting “this beer sparkles in the glass and on the tongue – rich fruity notes of cherry and dates parry with nut brown, caramel flavours, but nothing is overpowering.”[15] Some could argue it’s a commercialised example of a regional beer, indeed by the time this beer was first released breweries were starting to take advantage of the commercial potential for Christmas beers which may have improved their marketability but marked the beginning of a downfall in quality. This beer comes from that transitional period, yet it is easy to why from judging by its quality why it has gained awards over the years, including Gold Medal at the International Beer Challenge 2009 and the UK’s Best Strong Dark Beer at the World Beer Awards 2015 to name but a few. This beer is available in both bottle and cask, although the latter is generally limited to Hook Norton owned pubs within the Oxfordshire area.

Christmas Ale (7.5%) – Harvey’s

One of Harvey’s signature seasonal beers, it is also one of their longest running, being first released back in 1972. At a hefty 7.5% it is also the strongest beer on the list, Harvey’s describe it as “a traditional barley wine exudes biscuity malts and rich vinous fruits, all balanced by a strong hop bitterness.”[16] It is known to be heavily hopped with several different varieties of hops, utilizing roasted malt and pinhead oats towards developing its iconic flavour profile. The beer is said to be highly reminiscent of the strong stock ales of the 18^th and 19^th century, with the likes of Des de Moor noting “the aroma is relatively restrained, with pronounced fruity and toasty malt notes. A rich, sweet and oily but all too drinkable palate has cherry fruit, with light wood hints and emerging almond flavours.”[17] It also has notes of dark prunes, port and cherry as Tim Hampson once proclaimed “it has some vinous qualities – but underlying it is an entrancing caramel malt character, the hallmark of some of the world’s best beers.”[15] As a barley wine, it is usually expected to be strong, malty and be seen as the finest example of the brewers’ craft, on the subject of its strength Two Thirsty Gardeners state “Harvey’s Christmas Ale, although strong and boozy, is relatively light on alcohol at 7.5% ABV but it certainly packs a Santa-sack-full of complex flavours into each tiny bottle. It has lovely rich, malty flavours, robust fruity hedgerow hop notes and a slightly sweet, tart taste.”[18] A number of commentators have also described an underlying smoothness that helps add to the complex flurry of flavours present, which have been described by the brewery’s head brewer Miles Jenner as “a liquid Christmas pudding.”[19] Over the past half century, it has won at least 30 awards, with one of the more prestigious being the recipient of Finland’s Olutseura Olviretki award for ‘excellently’ fulfilling “The Christmas Beer Regulation” as described in Alexis Kivi’s novel ‘Seven Brothers’. This highly decorated beer is available in both bottle and cask, although the cask version is generally limited only to Harvey’s pubs and the occasional beer festival around this period, such as The Pig’s Ear Beer Festival in Clapton, which was held a few weeks back. It has been noted that bottles of this beer have be seen in several notable London department stores and has even it made to parts of the US.

Stronghart (7%) – McMullen

First released in 1993, it was actually a successor to an earlier Christmas themed beer produced by the Hertford based brewer that has been operating in the town since 1827. Made from malted East Anglian barley and whole leaf English hops, the brewery describes Stronghart as "a beer that is rich, dark and exceptionally smooth, demonstrating the very special skills of Hertfordshire's Independent Family Brewers.”[20] Roger Protz once described it as “one of the pleasures of winter drinking was to regularly sip a small amount of Stronghart in the nearest Macs pub and marvel at the way in which the beer matured and deepened in complexity as the weeks past.”[21] The late great Michael Jackson (not the singer) wrote in 1996 “this claret-coloured brew is very smooth and slightly syrupy, with port-like flavours, rounding out in a dryish finish.”[22] Whilst, SpectreUK observed a liquorice taste, noting “the beer had a sweetened, black treacle edge that in no way tasted syrupy. Both these flavours worked perfectly together with the hops and malted barley to create a luxurious richness to this almost black beer.”[23] This beer has won a number of awards including Gold at the 1997 CAMRA Champion Beer of Britain awards in the Barley Wine and Strong Ale category. Although this beer used to be sold widely on cask, McMullens have since it dropped it from their cask range and replaced in the much weaker Boot Warmer (5.2%), yet very occasionally Stronghart is still sold on cask on a very limited basis. Predominately it is now sold in bottle form, and can be brought directly from McMullen’s Brewery Shop or in a number of their pubs situated around North London and Hertfordshire. This type of beer embodies the spirit of a Winter Warmer, it has that distinctive warming feeling with a great depth of flavour and wide range of aromas, that wants to give you a big hug and feel better after drinking it.

Winter Welcome (6%) – Samuel Smith’s

The only Northern beer of this list, and one of Samuel Smith of Tadcaster’s signature releases, it debuted in 1990 and although it’s only available on bottle, every year the brewery issues a new bottle label design that is decorously illustrated, which makes these bottles highly collectable with every passing year, with this year’s vintage marking the centenary of the iconic steam locomotive The Flying Scotsman. The name for this beer comes from on old folk tale about an old man named John who welcomes his old friend on a cold Winter’s day where they share a drink together. Upon drinking the beverage, his friend retorts “That’s a fine welcome, John. I enjoy it immensely every year.” Although the ingredients are closely guarded secret, it is brewed in fermented in the brewery’s signature Yorkshire squares which helps gives its unique taste. Dow Scoggins describes it as “Honey-amber colored, creamy head of small bubbles, floral aroma and delicious caramel malt flavor with great finesse. Fine hop aroma finish and a fruity note from fermentation in open-topped stone Yorkshire Squares.”[24] This highly quaffable beer, is one of the few Christmas beers made in the UK that is sold extensively in the US, along with other beers in the brewery’s extensive range. It had gained a small following stateside, with Nick Carr noting “the taste brings sweet malt, mostly caramel, and some spiciness at the front. Mid-palate the fruit pops up with lingering memories of pear, apricot and muted apple; along with some floral notes, and slight bittering and more spicy earthiness. At the back before swallowing the sweet malts reassert, but can’t quite overpower the hop play.”[25] Whilst its bevvy of flavours brings another level of intrigue, the Brew Club mentions “this beer is supremely smooth and highly drinkable.”[26] Again, at 6% ABV, this beer is no booze slouch, but the alcohol flavours don’t take center stage in the taste at all. You certainly feel the warmth, but the alcohol flavours play nicely with the other good stuff.” This is beer is fine example of a winter warmer, although it is shame that it has seldom been released on cask and gained more recognition on home soil.

Old Winter (5.3%) – Fullers

One of Fullers Brewery’s more elusive beers, this seasonable number is normally sold during November – December. Fullers describe it as a strong beer with a malt, cookie and liquorice aroma, which is neatly balanced with the combination Target, Challenger and Northdown hops, whilst Crystal Malt adds a counterpoint of sweetness. Real Ale Craft describes this beer as having “a one to two finger off white head, good levels of carbonation, it’s a dark chestnut coloured ale that has great clarity to it.”[27] When it comes to aroma, a flurry of scents come through ranging from plums, figs, prunes, crème brule, fruit cake, rum, liquorice and winter spices, just about everything the encompasses the winter months Real Ale Craft adds. And when it comes to flavour, Reuben Gray describes it as “there is enough residual sweetness to balance the bitterness making this one of the types of beer I enjoy most. Dry, bitter with a hint of sweetness in the background to balance the bitterness. Carbonation is perfect giving you an almost chewy mouthfeel.”[28] Whilst Roger Protz notes the use hops “add not only a deep bitterness to beer but notes of pepper and spice.”[29] Real Ale Craft Beer gave it a favourable mention “biscuity, bready, nutty, chewy, caramel flavour just wrap around the inside of your mouth on your palate, there is a touch of liquorice that is quickly followed by bitterness.”[27] A 5.3% this beer is more sessionable in nature, and some commentators have noted that it’s relative lack of strength holds it back from radiating more potential. Over the years, this beer has also been sold around the world including Sweden, Germany, Norway, Finland, Spain and even Japan! This beer is sold in both cask and bottle although it has been unavailable for some time, yet recently Fullers announced its return however its only available in bottle form from their brewery shop and website whilst stocks last.

On the whole from looking at this selection of classic British produced Christmas Beers, they’re premium examples of the brewing craft and live up to the standards and ideals that characterised the Winter Ales produced many decades before with the essential premise as a stronger and more full-bodied beer designed to ‘warm’ the punters up during the coldest months of the year. The beers in this list, could be more than a match on the world stage with iconic Christmas themed beers from overseas such as Christmas Ale (10%) – St Bernadus, Christmas Ale (7.5%) – Great Lakes, Noel (10%) – Delirium, Stille Nacht (12%) – De Dole, Celebration Ale (6.8%) – Sierra Nevada, Cuvée de Noël (9%) – St Feuillien, Jubelale (6.7%) – Deschutes and Jule Malt (15%) – To Øl, to name but a few, and indeed some British produced Christmas have won international awards like Christmas Ale (7.5%) – Harvey’s, Twelve Days (5.5%) – Hook Norton and Christmas Ale (7%) – Shepherd Neame, so there is potential. However, to make it clear, Christmas themed beers are not a specific beer style as such like Stout or Pale Ale, as Beer Sapiens note “winter beers are not a specific style of beer, but are made with beers of different styles, from bocks, Belgian dark strong, to of course Imperial Stouts or Baltic Porters.”[30] But the underlying themes remain consistent as Jeff Evans adds “higher alcohol is still a key feature of most, but there’s no set style as such. Some brewers even try to enhance the flavour by throwing in Christmas Cake spices or the odd slice of fruit.”[31] Yet many breweries particularly in the UK in more recent decades have diverged from the practise, to create weaker and more sessionable beers where the only things Christmassy about them are the odd touch of spices, and the pun laden titles. Yet if you look hard enough there are some great examples of premium British produced Christmas beers out there, even from just looking at the list of classic beers mentioned. So, from that outlook, it would be naïve to merely just dismiss Christmas Beers as crude, tacky and a gimmicky marketing ploy made by breweries to sell more beers over the Christmas period; there are instances of breweries across the UK who produce wonderful Christmas themed beers that showcase the brewers’ skills and talents, it’s a shame these have been often overlooked in the face of negative publicity. So, this Christmas let raise a pint or a half to these great British produced Christmas beers, that help bring out the best in what these ‘winter warmers’ have to offer.