Beer Review: Wantsum Golgotha

Brewery: Wantsum

Style: Stout

ABV: 5.5%

Location: Canterbury, Kent

Aroma: Fruity with a hint of smoke, come wood coming through in the background. Perhaps hints of hedgerow fruits such as blackcurrant and blackberries.

Colour: Jet black,  with a thin tan coloured head that quickly dissipated.

Taste: Faints levels of fruit, some sweetness, mildly smokey, dissapointingly watery in its mouthfeel despite the use of Oatmeal which doesn't carry through and effects the overall experience. There is some roasted malt there, but its not too potent. The flavours don't try hard enough in this beer to make much of an effect. 

Verdict: A pitiful excuse for a stout, the use of Oatmeal is at least sparing as it doesn't add much to its mouthfeel. The flavours are faint and difficult to detect in the scheme of things. Despite some promising initial aromas, this beer does not deliver.

Rating: 4/10

Pub Guides: The Castle, Harrow-on-the-Hill

Address: 30 West Street, Harrow, HA1 3EF

 

Opening Hours: Sun-Thurs (12pm-11pm), Fri-Sat (12pm-12am)

 

Tel: 0208 8422 3155

 

Situated on a residential street near Harrow School is an imposing looking pub, built at the beginning of the Edwardian era in 1901. A Fullers pub since its inception, many of its original features still remain, including its distinctive curved shaped bar with wood panelling and surrounding bar rail, which rather intriguingly the area is separated in two by a glazed timbre screen with a low hanging door, this partitions the bar into two areas, namely the saloon bar and the public bar, which was a once common feature in most pubs at the time when the pub was built, but over time has increasingly become rare as ever-frequently succesive owners have demolished their partitions in return for extra space. Moreover, the pub still features two entrances to both respective areas which helps with the footfall during busier times, and boasts two sets of handpulls which are both in continuous service. Over at the rear side of the bar is the former billiards room which has repurposed as a dining area, meanwhile behind the bar there are two intriguing looking rooms, the snug room fulfils its purpose as a private drinking area even down to its serving hatch, although the latter is now boarded with glass and the original furniture has long since been removed. Adjacent to the snug, is the former severery which has now been repurposed as a secondary indoor dining area, notably it boasts a large number on antique clocks on its walls, leading it to be amusingly dubbed, The Clock Room.

 

With enough original features present, it is easy to see why the pub is Grade II listed and has been awarded a three-star status by CAMRA’s Pub Heritage Group.  However, I think the latter award is too generous as parts of the original architecture have renovated, namely the snug and billiards room as some of the original furniture has been removed or the occasional architectual feature has been altered, quite deservingly it really shouldn’t get more than 2 stars for its endeavours.  Moreover, as you leave the entrance to the public bar, one enters an impressive length of stairs that leads into the raised pub garden. A relatively recent addition to the pub, it seemingly looks out of place with its imposing structure of wooden gazebos and dining tables, which gives the area a continental feel during the summer months. Interestingly, at the back of the garden there is the former pub sign, featuring a decorously detailed piece of art work that features a knight returning back to a castle, alas its owners Fullers have since replaced the pub sign with a bland motif featuring the outline of a castle. Now, I’m all for pub gardens yet the raised area makes it inaccessible for wheelchair users which would surely put some people off from coming here.

 

Rather typical for a Fullers pub, on cask it features a number of their beers including classics like London Pride (4.1%) and ESB (5.5%), also included is Hophead (3.8%) by their subsidiary Dark Star Brewing Co., which Fullers took over in 2018, a few years later current owners Asahi closed down their Partridge Green brewery and relocated operations to Fullers main brewery site in Chiswick, so now all three beers available in cask are made ‘in house’. There is also supposed to be a guest beer, which was notably absent on my visit, along with a wide and intriguing selection of keg beers/ lagers and a small range of bottled beers in the fridge that featured a number of Fuller’s products, which were a bit in short supply in this instance. I ultimately went for a pint of ESB, which at £5.95 was the priciest pint I have yet sampled in a Fuller’s pub, this is clear living proof of the adverse effects of inflation and the ever increasing rates are having on the average price of a pint, which I have seen increase by nearly £2 since I began my drinking odyssey during the tail end of the Noughties. Thankfully for such an expensive pint it was rather quaffable and flavoursome, its distinct butterscotch flavours suitably laced with a subtle background of bitterness and maltiness; although I prefer the bottled version which is stronger and has more character, although for a cask pint this was quite decent.

Rather typical for a pub nowadays, this pub features extensive dining facilities both indoors and outdoors, which boasts traditional English pub fare with a modern ‘gastro’ twist. One may frown at the reduction of drinking facilities, but this is the one of the principal means of income for the pub, and without this service it would struggle to survive. However, unlike those country pubs that have been repurposed as gastro hellholes, you are not greeted by host who asks for your table number and there’s none of that snobbish sense of exclusivity. It still largely feels like a homely neighbourhood bar where you are met with a friendly atmosphere and a comfortable environment, which is embellished with its impressive array of brick-a-back from embossed mirrors, cricket bats, framed photos, hats, wall-mounted deer heads and antique clocks that adds to the overall ambiance. It is easy to see why it was voted Pub of the Year by the local CAMRA Harrow branch in 2014 and 2016 respectively, because it delivers its purpose as a good service to its locals. From an architectural angle, this is certainly one of the more interesting pubs I have yet visited during my travels, so if you’re a fan of historic pub interiors, then this place is a must-visit on your bucket list, if you happen to be passing by.

Beer Review: Harvey's Porter

Brewery: Harvey's

Style: Porter 

ABV: 4.8%

Location: Lewes, East Sussex

Aroma: Plums and cherries dominate, hints of oak and malt come through with notes of burnt sugar.

Colour: Jet black with a thin tan coloured head that quickly disipates.

Taste: A potent bitterness assualts the senses, followed by a fruity sweetness that helps offset its excess. The roasted malt element is noticable, which helps give it added character. Hints of dark chocolate and coffee also present. The beer is also smooth, yet not too cloying to be heavy.

Verdict: There's a good balanace of flavours going on here,  verging from bitterness to a pleasant sweetness. There are no flavours trying to outdoor each other. Its only downside is the lack of a head,  which affects its mouthfeel. Despite its moderate strength, it seems stronger and gives off a warming effect which helps add to the experience. It's a good example of a porter.

Rating: 9/10

History Beers

From time to time, you may across a beer that has a connection to a historical event or figure from history. Over the years there’s been dozens of beers named after or inspired by a notable historical individual, ranging from monarchs to scientists and even the odd entertainer or two. Well-known historical figures like William Shakespeare, Horatio Nelson, Robert Burns, King John I, Winston Churchill and Charles Dickens have frequently been featured in a number of beers, although less well-known figures have also featured on beers like Long Strides (4.4%) - Orkney, inspired by John Rae, a Scottish explorer who was the first to explore the Northwest Passage of Canada, or Wilks Wonder (4.5%) – Burton Bridge, that celebrates the development of the Land Rover and it’s inventor Maurice Wilks. In this article we will explore the various historical figures from times gone by, who have influenced breweries all over the UK to name their beers in retrospect.

 

Certain figures from history tend to get more coverage than others when it comes to naming beers in their memory. Monarchs tend to be a popular draw, none more so than King John I, who was best known for the signing of the Magna Carta and a disastrous reign that led to the loss of British territories in France. Which in turn has inspired a number of breweries to produce beers that commemorate his plight, ranging from Magna Carta Ale (4.2%) – Nethergate, King John (4.2%) – Andwell Brewing Co., Magna Carta (7.2%) – Windsor & Eton, Bad King John (6%) – Hepworth, Lincoln Magna Carta (5%) – Milestone and King John’s Jewels (4.5%) – 8 Sail to name a few, the latter which was inspired by the disappearance of King John’s treasure that vanished in the Wash estuary during a disastrous trip across the Norfolk broads in 1216. Another notable example is Queen Victoria who has inspired a number of beers and pub names (both factual and fictional) over the years, noted for her eventful 63-year reign that saw massive changes in the Britain’s economy and industry. Such examples have flowed over the years, including Victoria Works (4.3%) - Weatheroak, Victoria Bitter (3.6%) – Earl Soham, Drina (4.2%) – Fuller’s, Victoria Pale Ale (3.5%) – Heritage Brewing Co. and Empress of India (6.1%) – Newtown, the latter example in commermoration of the notable event in 1877 when Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli bestowed the title to the Queen, in order to further Britain’s ties with India, and closely link the monarchy with empire. Her successors have also influenced beer names from Edward VII with the likes of First Emperor (4.6%) – Eden River Brew Co and Eddie’s Best (3.9%) – Nethergate, whilst George V has featured in King George’s Bitter (4%) – Littleover, King George (4%) – Little Brewing Co and King George V (4.3%) - Archers. Even, Queen Elizabeth II has featured on a slew of beers over the years Monarch (4.2%) – Rebellion, Cheers Ma’am (4.2%) – Marstons, Royal Wave (4.1%) – Skinners, Queen’s Tipple (4.2%) – Robinsons, and Diamond Reign (4.1%) – Castle Rock to name a few. Perhaps the most iconic example was Elizabethan Ale (7.2%) – Harvey’s, a barley wine first released in 1953 (on the year of her coronation), it became popular enough to be brewed every year until the final edition marking the Platinum Jubilee was released shortly after her passing in September 2022. 

 

Horatio Nelson is another celebrated historical individual has also heavily influenced the name of a number of beers and pubs across the country, he is noted for his sterling efforts as a commander in quelling the threats from the Franco-Spanish fleets during the early 19^th century before perishing at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805, a number of beers spring to mind including Tapping the Admiral (4%) – Shepherd Neame, named after the well-known rumour when crewmates tapped the barrel of brandy in which Nelson was embalmed in enroute to England, Victory Ale (6%) – Bateman’s, in remembrance of the ship Nelson commandeered during his final voyage, and Nelson’s Revenge (4.5%) – Woodfordes, one of a number of Nelson themed beers produced by the brewery, which has become their most notable and successful releases. Former prime ministers have also attracted brewers to reference their name sake, from the likes of Benjamin Disraeli Hughenden Ale (4.8%) – Chiltern, which was commissioned by Hughenden Manor Museum, former residence of Disraeli; Baldwin IPA (4.2%) – Bewdley, named after the town’s most iconic MP and three times Prime Minister, Stanley Baldwin; and most notably Winston Churchill who led the country through World War Two and is considered by some as being one of this country’s greatest leaders, his namesake has been referenced in beers from breweries across the world from the likes of the US, Australia and even Russia. Across the UK a number of breweries have referenced him, including the likes of Churchill HPA (4.5%) – Oxfordshire Ales, Churchill IPA (4.6%) – Greene King, Finest Hour (4.2%) – Rebellion, Churchill’s Fall (3.6%) – Brewhouse & Kitchen and British Bulldog (4.1%) – Westerham, the later example is coincidental, as the brewery happens to be based near his former residence Chartwell. Away from the world of politics and monarchy, certain figures from the illustrious world of the arts have been lauded by brewers. Perhaps the most potent example is William Shakespeare, who is purported to influenced the greatest number of pubs, breweries and beer names across the globe, more than any other playwright or figure from the arts. His likeliness has inspired a number of beer names including the likes of Shakespeare’s County (5%) – The Warwickshire Beer Co, The Globe Shakespeare’s Ale (4.2%) and Shakespeare’s IPA (6%) – North Cotswold Brewing Co. One brewery has gone to the lengths of naming themselves in his honour, The Shakespeare Brewing Company; based in Stretton on Fosse near Shakespeare’s hometown of Stratford upon Avon, they have produced a selection of suitably themed beers including The Bard’s Best (4.2%), The Othello (5%), The Macbeth (4.8%), The Tempest (5.2%), The Falstaff’s Folly (4%), The Puck’s IPA (3.6%) and King Lear’s Mocha Stout (5.6%), in commemoration of his much lauded range of plays. Perhaps a close second to Shakespeare would be the acclaimed Scottish poet Robert Burns, noted for such classics like 'Auld Lang Syne', 'Tam O’Shanter',  'Ae Fond Kiss', 'To a Louse' and 'Address to a Haggis', enough to promote him to national hero status in Scotland. A number of breweries both north and south of the border have named their beers after him, including Bard (4.6%) – Invarelmond, Burn’s Auld Sleekit (5.5%) – Coach House, named after a line his poem To a Mouse; Haggis Hunter (4.3%) – Harvistoun, Scottish Bard (4.1%) – Cairngorm, Robert Burns Brown Ale (4.1%) – Belhaven and Guid Ale (3.8%)- Arran, inspired by Burn’s poem ‘Gude Ale Keeps the Heart Aboon’ which deals the jollified excesses of its drunken protagonist, whom regularly proclaims the beneficial qualities of ale. 

 

Over time, some of these historical beers have become highly successful and well known,  certain ones come to mind like JHB (3.8%) – Oakham Brewery, which was one of their very first releases after the launch of their brewery in 1993 and was named after Jeffrey Hudson a courtier from King Charles I’s court whom measured 3ft 6in and was also a skilled duellist, adventurer and fought with the royalists in the English Civil War; like his stature the beer is suitably low in ABV, yet it packs a citrussy and hoppy bitterness which echoes Hudson’s fervent personality. The beer has won a huge number of awards over the years including Champion Beer of Britian (1999) – Silver, SIBA Beer of East Anglia – Gold (2007) and International Beer Challenge (2012) – Bronze, to name but a few.  Another notable example is Nelson’s Revenge (4.5%) – Woodfordes, which first appeared in October 1989, less than a year after their current Broadland Brewery site opened. One of several beers of theirs inspired by Horatio Nelson, this one is perhaps the most notable. A rather bitter beer, it is made with five varieties of hops together with local Norfolk barley, in order to give its distinct citrussy spiced malty taste. It has been voted Champion Beer of Norfolk and has won a slew of other awards including a good number at the Champion Beer of Britain awards where it won gongs in the Best Bitter category several times including Gold in 2014. Perhaps the most successful example in recent years is Darwin’s Origin (4.3%) – Salopian Brewery, first released in 2009 to mark the bicentenary of Charles Darwin’s birth. Darwin whom has been considered one history’s greatest naturalists and biologists, is widely known for his contributions into the development of evolutionary biology and his landmark publication ‘The Origin of the Species’, of which the beer is named after. In the spirit of the great man himself, the beer uses both new and old world hops that gives it a distinctive international taste. The beer has also won a number of awards ranging from Gold at the SIBA Digital Awards (2020) and more recently Bronze for Supreme Champion Beer of Britian at GBBF 2023, which proves indeed it’s a product of Darwinism as it has achieved survival of the fittest.

 

Breweries from across the UK have produced a number of beers featuring the likeliness or namesake of a notable individual from history. Sometimes these beers have appeared a one-off special like for instance Bo66y (4.2%) – Greene King, which was released in 2016 to mark the 50^th anniversary of England winning the World Cup finals and celebrates the efforts of the team’s captain Bobby Moore; or Tapping the Admiral (4%) – Shepherd Neame, which was initially released on 2005 to mark the bicentenary of Nelson’s victory at The Battle of Trafalgar. Occasionally breweries have released a succession of limited-edition releases as part of a ongoing series, for instance between 2016-18, Rebellion Brewery released a series of limited edition beers under several series titles, including the likes of English Greats 2016, Great Britons 2017 and World Greats, notably featuring such beers like Armada (4.2%) – Sir Frances Drake, Engineer (4.2%) – Isambard Kingdon-Brunel, Humbug (4.2%) – Charles Dickens, The Greatest (4.2%) – Muhammed Ali and Relativity (4.2%) – Albert Einstein, to name a few.  A few years ago, Falstaff Brewery, a microbrewery based in Derby released 16 beers under their Catchphrase banner, all featuring individuals and fictional characters from the world of entertainment known for their classic catchphrases, including the likes of Bowen (4.3%), Cooper (4.2%), Everett (4.3%), Grayson (4.3%) and Robinson (4.3%) for instance. Meanwhile for several years Burton Bridge Brewery was involved in it’s ongoing Gold Medal Series which charts famous moments in history, notable individuals like L.S. Lowry, Orson Welles, Laurence Olivier, Pat Phoenix and Kenneth Williams have featured on releases, to less obvious ones like John Flamstead, Robert Watson-Watt, Tom Stevens and Maurice Wilks. Some notable releases include Horizontal Hold (4.5%) which celebrates John Logie-Baird’s first showing of a practical television system to members of the Royal Society in Jaunary 1926, Big Swig (4.5%) which commemorates astronaut Jack Swigert’s ingenious efforts to maintain the survival of his crew during the ill-fated voyage of Apollo 13 in 1970, and Screwbedoo (4.5%) which memorialises the efforts of Sir Jospeh Whitworth, whom in 1841 devised the British Standard Whitworth system, which created an accepted standard for screw threads.

 

More frequently is the case however, that breweries have featured such ‘historical beers’ as part of their regular range, either sold on a frequent or seasonal basis. There’s notable award winners like JHB (3.8%) – Oakham Brewery, Nelson’s Revenge (4.5%) – Woodfordes and Darwin’s Origin (4.3%) – Salopian Brewery, beers inspired by monarchs like First Emperor (4.6%) – Eden River Brew Co., Bad King John (6%) – Hepworth and Tickle Brain (8%) – Burton Bridge, which coincidentally was the Tudor name for strong ale and bears the likeliness of Henry VIII on its bottle design. Moreover, there are ales named after notable politicians and militarists, like Baldwin IPA (4.2%) – Bewdley, Victory Ale (6%) – Bateman’s, Tom Paine (5.5%) – Harvey’s, Cromwell Bitter (4%) – Milestone, William Wilberforce’s Freedom Ale (4.8%) and British Bulldog (4.1%) – Westerham. Alongside beers named notable individuals from the arts, such as Bring Me Sunshine (4.2%) – Tring, inspired by famed local resident Eric Morecambe; Juice Forsyth (5%) – Brew York, a distinctly fruity tropical IPA made in tribute to the legendary entertainer Bruce Forsyth; A Dickens of an Ale (4.2%) – Hornes, a seasonal spiced ale in honour of Charles Dickens, author of A Christmas Carol, and The Bard’s Best (4.2%) – The Shakespeare Brewing Company, one of a number of Shakespeare themed beers produced by the brewery. Even individuals who have made a valuable contribution to society have featured on well-known releases like Telford Porter (6%) – Conwy, in commemoration of one of the county’s greatest industrial engineers Thomas Telford , Mompession’s Calling (5.5%) – Eyam, in honour of clergyman William Mompesson noted for successfully containing an outbreak of the plague in his parish of Eyam; Long Strides (4.4%) – Orkney which lauds John Rae’s accomplishments as a explorer, and Edith Cavell (3.7%) - Wolf, named after the nurse who helped pioneer modern nursing practises in Belgium, and notably treated soldiers on both sides during WW1.

 

Many historical influenced beers have come and gone over the years, although the more well-known examples like Shakespeare, King John I, Churchill or Nelson tend to take the spotlight, a whole manner of notable historical personages from various walks of life have appeared on beer names over the years. Some may feature just their names, whilst others take inspiration from well known instances from their lives and present in a creative fashion. Some breweries have even gone to the lengths of naming themselves after famous historical individuals like the Shakespeare Brewing Co. and Dickensian Brewery for instance. Moreover, the UK is not alone at this, breweries from all around the world from the US, Canada, Mexico, New Zealand and even the Netherlands for example have released beers that have commemorated historical individuals. Yet on the whole, this area tends to be a niche one, but when one finds a bottle or a pump clip at a pub that their bears the likeliness of a famous civil engineer, monarch, inventor, politician or entertainer, this inclines to pique the curiosity with anyone with an interest in history as they prepare to sup their pint and commemorate that drink to their memory.