BeerMike : A Cup of Coffee Stout

Over the past few years, there has been an uptick in the number of Coffee Stouts either released on a nationwide or regional basis. Where it was once deemed a niche product with limited appeal, this recent roster of releases have been repurposed as regular fixtures of the brewery’s commercial range, with the likes of Grind (6%) – BrewDog, Expresso Martini (5.6%) – Wiper & True, Barista Stout (4.2%) - Theakston and Master Stoat (5%) – Hall & Woodhouse, enjoying national distribution across pubs, supermarkets and bottle shops around the country; even regional breweries like Ashover, Ben’s, Cotswold Lakes, Ferry Ales, Great Corby, Titanic and Tring are getting in on the act and releasing coffee stouts as part of their regular range. Even supermarkets like Lidl and Aldi are getting on the act, with the latter releasing Coffee Stout (5.2%) in collaboration with Hall & Woodhouse last year. This clamour is partly due to growing popularity of stouts in this country, a recent Tesco press release stated “stout has become so popular again that it is now the fastest growing beer variety in the UK. In the last year volume demand for the malty, full-bodied, dark beer with a creamy head has grown by 35 per cent at Tesco.”[1] In recent years, the growth for stouts in the UK increased by a whopping 23% against a growing global increase in the consumption of stout, making the UK one of the fastest growing markets for stout in the world. With this boom in sales for stout, purely by chance coffee stouts are now gaining greater traction in this country than ever before. This particularly beer style has often been derided, seen as a figurehead of the craft beer movement, or been consigned to the banishment of limited-edition releases that are quickly forgotten about. Its recent rise to prominence has been belated, given that coffee stouts (and porters) have been produced in this country for over 20 years, yet it’s current success could be soon be vindicated.

The likes of Coffee Stout are part of an extensive roster of substyles of this particular type of beer, ranging from classics like Milk, Oyster, or Oatmeal Stout noted for their full bodied and creamy mouthfeel, ones with darker and more astringent flavours like Dry and Chocolate Stout, fruity varieties that use the likes of Cherries and Plums, to potent examples like Imperial Stout and the downright peculiar like Meat Stout that utilized genuine meat extract. Rather intriguingly Coffee Stout is relatively new to the roster, as the Brewer’s Union note “the very first commercially distributed coffee beer was released in 1994 by Wisconsin’s New Glarus Brewing. They called it, simply enough, Coffee Stout. Two years later, this beer won the silver medal at the B.T.I – World Beer Championships.”[2] This beer was followed by the likes of other early examples like Cappuccino Stout (Languitas) released later in 1994, Chicory Stout (Dogfish Head) and Double Black Stout (Redhook Brewing) both released the following year in 1995. Soon other breweries across the states were producing their own Coffee Stouts, and eventually word of this new style of stout spread around the world and soon countries like Belgium, Australia, Norway, Poland and even Japan were producing their unique takes on the style. Rather belatedly, Coffee Stouts reached the shores of blighty in 2003 when Dark Star released Expresso Stout (4.2%) brewed with arabica beans it quicky became a popular release for the brewery, soon other breweries joined the bandwagon with the likes of Java Jolt Coffee Stout (5.5%) – Darwin, and Gaelic Coffee (4.6%) – Church End first appearing over the next couple of years. In 2008, Ashover released Coffin Lane Stout (5%), named after a former trail that led out of Ashover lined with gravestones, for many years mourners would use it as a route to the local cemetery. Described by CAMRA as a “stout with chocolate and coffee flavours which are balanced by a little sweetness, the finish is long and quite dry.”[3] Its warming chocolate and coffee flavours were enhanced by the slightly bitter finish of Fuggles hops. This beer subsequently became a regular part of their range, becoming one of the first coffee stouts produced in the UK to be sold on a regular basis. Another early example of a regular release was Cappucino Stout (4.5%) – Titanic, first released in 2011, it was based on their classic recipe Stout and utilized a cold coffee brew added during the brewing process. The finished result CAMRA mentions it as “black with a vanilla and strong coffee nose leading to a sweet taste again with strong coffee, aftertaste is sweet.”[4] Whilst All Hail the Ale dubbed it as tiramisù in a glass, stating “there’s coffee straight away, a little bit of chocolate and the malt is there, but it very much playing second fiddle,”[5] this beer has won a number of awards over the years and it continues to be sold to this day. Meanwhile the following year Fat Cat Brewery debuted Coffee Cream Stout (4.6%) at the 35^th Norwich Beer Festival, initially known as Mocha Moggie it was made Ethiopian Mocha coffee beans from Wilkinsons of Pottergate. The beer continued be sold on a regular basis in bottle and cask over the next decade, eventually winning Gold in the stout category for the CAMRA Champion Bottled Beer of Norfolk in 2020, yet despite these developments, this anticipated clamour for coffee flavoured stouts was slow to come by.

During the 2010’s as the craft beer movement thundered ahead, this proved to be febrile ground for budding independent brewers to experiment with their own coffee stouts, these releases tended produced in small batches and were sold on a limited, strictly local release basis, from the likes of Cimmerian Breakfast Stout (6.2%) – Thornbridge, which utilized a mixture of French coffee and bittersweet chocolate, Coffee in the Morning (5.7%) – Tap East, which utilized three coffee blends towards creating it’s characteristic full bodied flavour, Breakfast Stout (9.3%) – Kernel, an imperial stout that brewed with Fazenda Serra do Bone coffee from Brazil, Hot Numbers (5.5%) – Moonshine, that utilized roasted coffee beans from Hot Numbers Coffee of Royston, or Nicaraguan Coffee Stout (5.2%) – Harbour, that came about from a collaboration with Cornish based company Origin Coffee Roasters, utilizing their Los Altos coffee mix into the brew. James Beeson pointed out “the image usually associated with coffee beer is that of a heavy, dark coloured stout, with strong roasted malt aromas and harsh, bitter flavours. A niche product, enjoyable for those who want it, but not a mainstream drinks trend of significance.”[6] Occasionally during this period, the occasional Coffee Stout gained praise on the award circuit; in 2014; Ashover won an award for their Coffin Lane Stout (5%) when it gained SIBA East Midlands Champion Beer of Britain, two years later in 2016, the Backyard Brewhouse won SIBA Midlands Champion Speciality Beer of the Year in 2016 for their Coaltown Coffee Stout (5%) which got its name from the brewery’s collaboration with local coffee roasters Coaltown Coffee of Amanford, utilizing their Gold No.3 coffee mix, whilst the following year Titanic’s Cappuccino Stout (4.5%) was bestowed Beer of the Festival at the JD Wetherspoons Spring Beer Festival, among a clutch of successes at a number of beer festivals. As the decade wore on, the number of Coffee Stouts on the market increased, even established brewers were dabbling with it, like Imperial Stout Dark Coffee (7%) – Chiltern, Barista (4.2%) – Exmoor, and Dubbel Coffee Stout (7%) – Sharps, which Roger Protz described at the time of its release as “the palate is extremely dry and is dominated by roasted grain and coffee, with spicy hops building along with burnt fruits.”[7] In 2018, North Riding released their Cappuccino Stout (6%) made from a potent mixture derived from six types of malt and Brambling Cross hops, unlike its competitors at the time the brewery took the bold decision to put the beer on regular release, and it continues to be sold on cask and bottle. Likewise, the following year Ferry Ales put Faubuccino (4.5%) on sale as part of their extensive bottled range, a milk stout brewed with coffee from Lincoln based Stokes Tea & Coffee using their Blue Mountain blend, the beer subsequently won silver at the SIBA Digital Beer Awards 2020 for the East of England region. Stubbornly despite these developments, Coffee Stout unfortunately remained trapped in the doom loop of curios, as it continued to be relegated and regarded as a niche beer style. It would take the commercial nationwide uptick in the popularity of stouts, for this substyle to finally enter the mainstream.

In April 2022, Cold Brew Coffee Beer (4%) by Guinness was belatedly released in the UK, after it debuted the year before in the US and Ireland. It was brewed using cold water brewed coffee, which was then added to vats of Guinness Draft, each bottle contained 2mg of caffeine, about the same as a cup of decaf coffee. Its release was inspired by the growing number of porters and stouts released on the market by a number of craft breweries, and Guinness intended to cash in on this growing trade with something innovative. A press release at the time boldly claimed it “boasts the perfect balance of bitter and sweet roast coffee tasting notes, this rich, smooth, and creamy brew creates an elevated experience for beer and coffee lovers alike.”[8] Incidentally they banked on it being as marketable as they other established releases like Draught (4%) and Extra Stout (7.5%). Unfortunately, it was met with a mixed response, Lizzie Thompson from the Metro stated “it was the fizzy coffee taste that put me off the most. Undeniably, you can taste the notes of chocolate and caramel – but the drink just didn’t make sense to me. Some things simply shouldn’t be married together.”[9] Some commentators argued that drinking it at fridge temperature affected the taste, and was better drunk at room temperature, however this negative press led to it quietly being dropped from their range last November. Although it’s release was seen as a failure, on the whole it could be seen as the beachhead for the rising popularity of coffee-based stouts in the UK. Around this time, a number of regional breweries were releasing coffee stouts as part of their regular ranges; in May 2021, Great Corby debuted Coffee Milk Stout (4.7%) that used ground expresso coffee beans and lactose to create a multifaceted mix with hints of dark fruit and lashings of coffee. Later that July, Tring Brewery released Dagmal (5%), a full bodied stout made with lactose and oatmeal, it was made in collaboration with independent coffee roasters Bionic Bull (based in Hertford) using their house blend of Columbian, Brazilian and Ethiopian coffee beans; at the time local newspaper Hemel Today reported on this development, where Jared Ward (publicity manager at Tring) stated "the natural roasty, fruity flavours of Bionic Bull House Blend played perfectly into the stout, which already boasted notes of rich dark chocolate and molasses!”[10] The following year saw further debuts, in April 2022, Chorley based microbrewer Ben’s Brewery released Mean Old Bastard (5.7%), a coffee milk stout with a roast malt backbone, some sour notes and a dry aftertaste. Later that November, Charnwood debuted Coffee Cream Stout (5.4%), made from the combination of roasted barley and chocolate malt with the addition of cocoa nibs and coffee thrown in to the mix, it subsequently won gold at SIBA Midlands Bottled Beer Awards 2023, although it’s currently only sold in the Autumn. Meanwhile the same month, Cotswold Lakes debuted Cold Coffee Brew (4.3%), another local collaboration in this case using the Aurora coffee blend from Fire & Flow of Cirencester, initially released on a limited basis, its ensuing popularity led the brewery to re-release it the following Spring. Later in October 2023, Beartown released Lakeland Nightfall (4.9%) made in collaboration with coffee roasters Farrer’s Coffee of Kendal, using their classic expresso mix. This beer has met with a favourable response, even acquiring beer of the festival at the Middlewitch Beer Festival that December, only two months after its launch.

This growing flurry of releases, encouraged larger brewers to produce their own coffee stouts. Buoyed by the release of Cold Brew Coffee Beer (4%) by Guinness, this time they set their eyes on nationwide distribution. On 2^nd May 2023, Badger (Hall & Woodhouse) released Master Stoat (5%), their first regularly distributed stout. The press release described it as “our new stout brings together the rich, roasted notes from chocolate and crystal malts, combined with a perfectly pulled espresso.⁠ It ⁠has dark, caramelised biscuity notes that make way for a smooth lasting coffee sensation, with hints of toffee for a balanced, deceptively moreish and satisfying brew.⁠” This beer was sold widely in supermarkets across country including the likes of Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Asda, Waitrose and Morrisons, yet it’s release wasn’t influenced by the growing popularity of coffee stout, in actual fact it was influenced by the increasing number of stouts available in supermarkets, which the brewery was keen to cash in. This beer met with rave reviews, Real Ale Craft Beer stated “it’s rich, it’s creamy, it’s decadent, it’s bitter, that is one bitter stout,”[11] whilst Wraggy’s Beer Reviews proclaimed “the aroma, the taste, delivers on a scale which does what it says on the tin; you know what it’s coffee stout, that what it does, and in some amazing form.”[12] Indeed, this popular beer has become the most widely sold Coffee Stout in the country and has even gained awards within its first year of sales, acquiring gongs at the Great Taste Awards (1 star) and World Beer Awards - Bronze England Winner (Flavoured Beer) respectively. Later that September, Bristol based brewery Wiper & True launched their Expresso Martini Shake (5.6%), described as an indulgent and decadent stout inspired by one of the world’s most famous cocktails, this beer was one of several releases the brewery pushed for national distribution following the competition of their new brewery site and taproom. It was initially sold at Sainsbury’s stores, and subsequently at Waitrose branches, it became one of the brewery’s fastest selling beers of 2023. Co-founder Michael Wiper described the reasoning behind releasing it on a nation scale, “the introduction of Espresso Martini Shake is particularly exciting, as we know there is a growing demand for coffee-infused beers and stouts. Ours is a really fun, luxurious-tasting beer that combines all the best parts of an Espresso Martini cocktail into a smooth and tasty dark beer.”[13] Made with lactose and cocoa nibs, it has been described by many commentators as a proper strong bitter stout, that doesn’t cater to the typical tackiness of pastry/ flavoured stouts. All Hail to the Ale described it as “there is deep coffee, not overly roasted, but is a strong coffee of a medium heavy roast. Fairly sweet chocolate, a nice vanilla sweetness on the back end as well.”[14] The mouthfeel which Real Ale Craft Beer mentions was a particularly notable feature, “it’s delightful, rich, creamy mouthfeel, little bit of sweetness to begin with, lovely bitterness on the back end. You definitely taste some of that Expresso Martini in there.”[15] The taste has been labelled as having an even balance of coffee and chocolate flavours with a dash of caramel that dovetails nicely with the distinctive coffee kick. Sold exclusively in 440ml cans, it has been proved to be one of the brewery’s greatest commercial successes to date. Meanwhile, the following month, Brewdog, a giant of the craft beer scene since 2007, took the plunge and released Grind (6%) for national distribution, sold at supermarkets like Morrisons, Tesco and Sainsbury’s, this beer was one of a number releases the brewery pushed for nationwide exposure following the incredible success of Punk IPA (5.2%). On the more potent side for a stout, it developed through a collaboration between the brewery and London based coffee roasters Grind, which directly resulted from the brewery helping the coffee-makers to establish their first coffee bar at Brewdog’s taproom complex at Waterloo Station the previous year. Made with Simcoe hops and several different malts (including Brown, Chocolate, Crystal, Pale and Roasted Barley), with the addition of lactose for body, Mark Adair described it “as “something for coffee and beer nerds alike, the eye-catching pink can hosts a rich and full-bodied 6.0 per cent ABV stout infused with caffeine. Simcoe hops and Crystal Malt meet ethically sourced Grind coffee; a rich, full-bodied beer that’s all-upfront coffee giving way to bitter dark chocolate and sweet chocolate sauce.”[16] Even the national papers gave a glowing response, with the Scottish Daily Express noting “GRIND was smooth, creamy and had more than a hint of dark chocolate as I eagerly sunk the first portion of the can.”[17] For coffee lovers and beer drinkers alike, this beer proved to be a popular draw, and helped demonstrate the increasing universal appeal for coffee stouts on the national stage, thus proving there is much potential out there for this substyle of stout.

The plight of coffee stouts produced in the UK has been long and protracted since they first appeared in the country over 20 years ago. It was once openly dismissed as a niche and forgettable beer style, often relegated to limited releases or beer festival specials, often sold generally on a strictly localized radius to the breweries that produced it, so it would come to no surprise these beers were hard to come by. Over the past few years, the flurry of releases both regionally and nationally over the past few years, have proved that there is potential appeal behind this substyle. Yet this increasing proliferation of products is not down to a growing appreciation for coffee stouts, it was due to rising prominence of stouts on the national stage in recent years as particularly in supermarkets where breweries like St Austell, Hopgoblin, Brewdog, Black Sheep, Badger, Fuller’s and St Peter’s have marketed their stouts to cater for this booming market. The drive to promote Coffee Beers on regular release on the national and regional markets, was due to a desire to cash in on the growing appreciation of stouts, particularly from the younger generation. This is partly due to the increasing savviness in consumers in what they buy, Dan Paul-Scott (head brewer at Black Sheep) stated “people are savvier now in terms of what they buy. The common drinker wants variety … that is down to the craft beer boom as it created a versatile drinker who craves choice.”[18] Incidentally, the rise of the craft beer movement has driven consumers to embrace more ‘nostalgic’ beer styles like stout for instance, as tastebuds become more refined and seek greater choice. So, it comes as no surprise that breweries are pushing the likes of Coffee Stout even further into the public-eye than ever before. Wherever these particular beers have been released, they have been met with a favourable response, Hukins Hops sums this up “coffee and beer are a perfect pairing. The roasted notes of coffee can complement the malty flavours of beer, while the bitterness of coffee can contrast and balance the sweetness in certain beers.”[19] On this plus side of this, it will mean more breweries producing and releasing coffee stouts in future as part of their regular ranges, distributing it for the regional and national markets. This will result in greater exposure and recognition for this substyle, so it’s only matter of time before breweries win major national awards for their coffee stouts, as they become the next big thing.