Thursday, April 17, 2025

The Black IPA Gold Rush - Part 2

The year 2013 proved a bountiful harvest of success for Black IPAs, early that year Bowness flocked in with Swan Black (4.6%) which the brewery noted as a deliciously Black IPA that has a start-to-finish hoppy magnificence; rich chocolate sweetness along with subtle citrus and grassy notes. This beer subsequently joined their core range where it continues to be sold in both cask and bottle. In February, Saltaire Brewery released Kala (6.2%), described as having smooth roasted character and a big American hop presence, it was showcased at the Bradford Beer Festival that month; initially available in cask and bottle on a limited basis, its ensuing popularity led it to being added to the brewery’s core range and go onto win a number of awards.[1] Meanwhile, Great Heck Brewing debuted Black Jesus (6.5%), a potent mix brewed with large quantities of premium American hops and special dehusked German roasted malt. Villabone noted it as “burnt, hoppy, fruity, it’s all there. The taste, or aftertaste is of burnt or roasted coffee, but leaving a slight metal taste. It starts light and fresh, piney, fruity, then the second journey is the dark, roasted malts, coffee part. The carbonation is slight. The aftertaste is dry, and it stays.”[2] It became of one of their best-selling products, winning a multitude of awards including World’s Best Label at World Beer Awards 2014 and Huddesfield CAMRA Oktoberfest 2016: Silver (Strong Bitter of the Festival). Meanwhile, the Hop Studio produced Obsidian (5%), brewed with an abundance of Galaxy, Chinook, Centennial and Columbus hops, at a beer tasting event held at St. Lukes Church, Leeds that May, judges sampled both Scottish and Yorkshire beers. Hop Studio’s new Obsidian Black IPA beat Fyne Ales’ Vital Spark 69-20 votes. In July, Elland released Black Eden (4.2%), an alternative version of their pale ale Eden (4.2%), using the same hops (Cascade & Chinook) but with added Wyerman’s black malt to the brew. The following month, Real Ale Craft Beer collaborated with Sharp’s to produce Black Rock IPA (4.2%), a limited-edition release, it was initially brewed as a pale ale before dark malt was added later in the mashing process. Head brewer Simon Howe described it at the time, “this new brew, a blackened IPA, has a strident citrus and pithy bitterness in the finish, it’s dry and moreish. Black Rock IPA is full and hoppy with an alluring look. It has an intense citrus hop and sweet fruits taste which is set to thrill cask beer drinkers with the flavours of warmer climes.”[3] Sticking to the collaboration theme, on 13th October 2013, Brewdog released 12 beers produced through collaborations with other UK breweries, three of which were Black IPAs from the likes of Arbor Ales, Fyne Ales and Buxton. On the awards front, Conqueror 1075 (7.3%) won SIBA National 2013 – Best Bottled Beer (Silver), Black Jesus (6.5%) was awarded beer of the festival in Selby, Stewart Brewing gained another gong for their Black IPA (5%) winning International Beer Challenge 2013 – Silver, for the second consecutive year, and Raven (6.6%) continued to build on its growing number of awards, winning three that year including World Beer Awards 2013 – World’s Best Black IPA, Great Taste Awards 2013 – 2 stars, and The Dublin Craft Beer Cup 2013 – Silver, respectively. As another fruitful year came to a close, Tempest Brewing Co. released the appropriately titled In the Dark We Live (7.3%), an Imperial Black IPA which the brewery described as a hybrid beer - IPA by attitude, porter by appearance, very complex hop character compliments the rich and dark malts. Featuring a dizzying flavour profile of Mosaic, Simcoe, Columbus hops blended with Golden Promise, Munich and Caraf malts, it became widely sold across Europe, including countries like Spain and Italy. As 2014 began, Brains announced a collaboration with Jonny Garrett from the Craft Beer Channel where they developed Black Mountain (5%) released through their newly launched Brains Craft Brewery.[4] Flavour and aroma were on high on the cards, Summit and Apollo hops were initially brewed, then it was dry hopped with Citra, Amarillo, Summit, Apollo and Pacifica for added flavours and aromas. It also featured a complex malt bill, including Premium Ale malt for body, along with Munich, Crystal and Extra for additional caramel and roasted flavours, rounded off with Chocolate Malt for colour. Once described as a battle between hops and malt, Simon Martin elaborated “after them nice vinous almost grapey malts with the coffee, chocolate and caramel, the hops come back into play.”[5] Later that month on the 23rd, Mad Hatter Brewing debuted Hare of Darkness (7.4%), it was described as a hoppy winter ale and an even stronger 8% bottled version was later produced, sold in 330ml bottles.  In this instance Black IPAs are also quite versatile, as Sophie Atherton adds “Black IPA is also a year-round brew. Appropriately dark in winter months and refreshing in summer thanks to their massive hop character.”[6] Sticking to the puns, Blackjack Brew Co. released Black Maria (5.8%) in cask and bottle, named after a slang word for a police van that used to transport prisoners, appropriately in tribute to its US links, the beer was steeped in Columbus hops. Beer Manchester memorably noted it as “medium to full-bodied, the slightly spiky carbonation helps the hop flavours stay to the fore in this. There is a distinct background note of bitter roast coffee which remains throughout, daring you to have Another mouthful. But the fruitiness draws you back in.”[7] Meanwhile, Brecon upped the ante with Mind Bleach (10%), which the brewery noted as a Little Voice in the Head remover! Black as Sin, immensely aromatic and dangerously drinkable; this robust brew would become one of their most successful products, winning a slew of awards in the ensuing years. At the time, ‘Peaky Blinders’ was fast becoming one of the most popular shows on TV, Sadlers cashed in on the popularity with Peaky Blinder (4.4%). Ale Be Seeing You described it as “the first sip reminds you it's an IPA with a big hit of citrus but more orange than lemon as it's not bitter at all.  The roasted malts jump in next together with some sweet treacle and liquorice and ending on a slightly dry note.” Initially created as a one-off release, it quickly became popular with punters, which prompted the brewery to add it to its main range, incidentally it was later sold at the Black County Museum where the series was filmed. With the slew of Black IPAs appearing on the market, this prompted Roger Protz to issue a withering response “a final word on IPA: if you’re tempted, please don’t brew something called Black IPA. As the great American brewer and beer writer Garrett Oliver said on the subject: “Don’t get me started”. In other words, which part of India PALE Ale do you not understand? Black IPA is absurd and an insult to history.”[8] In response to his controversial comment, Steel City Brewing developed Protz Pleasure (5.3%), created as a wry dig directed at Protz, the bottle label and pump clip even featured a transcript of Protz comments where he labelled Black IPAs as an oxymoronic name that doesn’t exist. Later that June, Protz was more favourable towards Black IPAs when Hawkshead collaborated with supermarket retailer Booths, featuring four limited released beers sold as part of their Beer and Cider Festival which took place in its 29 stores from the 18 June – 15 July. One of these beers was Booths Black IPA (4.6%), which Protz described it as “Booths Black IPA is dark in colour but surprisingly light and refreshing on the palate, with aromas of tropical fruit and resinous pine,”[9] perhaps his opinion on Black IPAs had shifted? By this time, Black IPAs were being produced across the world, including countries like Sweden, Ireland, Spain and the Czech Republic; Brewdog bridged that gulf when they developed CapDog (9%), produced in collaboration with Swedish craft brewery CAP, initiated as part of their Development Fund 2014 to help up and coming breweries. Moreover, innovation was also on the cards, when Staggeringly Good released Extinction (5.7%) which was released in two versions, red cap for smoked and black cap with scotch bonnet chillies, if that wasn’t hot enough, in 2018 a special version brewed with Carolina Reaper chillers, making it one of the spiciest beers ever made.

 

2015 continued with the spate of releases, in March, Salopian unveiled Aphelion (5.5%) in both cask and bottle. Noted for its minimalistic bottle/ pump clip design, it was initially brewed for a Wetherspoons Beer Festival with English hops, however it wasn’t deemed hoppy enough so it was tinkered with and subsequently dry-hopped with US hops for added flavour and aromas. Described as a beautifully balanced black beer, with hints of mocha, dark fruits and ripe berries replete with piney aromas, its flavour profile confounded some, the Ormskirk Baron described it as “the weird thing about this beer, that its essentially a Porter, so its got that warming, slightly chocolaty, slightly sweet flavours and then its got this severe, really in your face hop, and very piney, which coats your tongue. Its almost like two beers in one.”[10] Meanwhile, Three Fiends Brewhouse based in Holmfirth (deep in Summer Wine country) debuted Dark Side (5.3%), the brewery described it as being brewed with a mix of American hops which, with chocolate malt, gives it a smooth chocolatey start, leading to an increasingly bitter finish; sold in both cask and bottle, it remains to this day part of their regular range. Vocation joined in the fray with Divide & Conquer (6.5%), CAMRA described it as having roast malt aroma and taste giving way to a hoppy and vinous mouthfeel, with a smooth and slightly sweet finish. Simon Martin poetically described it as slap round the chops from the hops, elaborating “that big bold rash punch in the face bitterness that you get from this beer. It’s big, its grapefruity, there’s some mango in there, and then you’ve got this big cat rasping on the curtains of the inside of your mouth of bitterness, it’s clawing at you. It’s great and that’s how I like it.”[11] If that wasn’t strong enough, Buxton came out with of their strongest beers yet, with the appropriately named Battle Horse (10.5%), meanwhile, on the more sessionable front Elgood’s released in bottle Cambridge IPA Dark/ Black (4.7%) a dark coloured variant of their established Cambridge IPA (4.7%). Unlike most Black IPAs that take influence from the US, this beer was based on a traditional English IPA recipe. Postcard Publications described it as “this beer pours almost black due to the addition of roast barley.  It has a fruity aroma and a smooth roasted tasted.  This is something of a hybrid beer, not quite a stout but more than a bitter.”[12] In June, Abbeydale unveiled their Signature series of beers that featured recipes from brewers and their pubs, one of these releases was Black Majik (6.3%) which came out in September, produced by Jonathan Stevens, it was described as a generously hopped Black IPA with upfront bitterness and chocked full of flavour. Later that same year, Greene King (one of the UK’s largest independent breweries) unveiled Black IPA (4.5%). Brewed with Simcoe and Citra hops for a lip-smacking finish, this was perhaps a sign that Black IPAs were finally hitting the mainstream. Later that November, Cardiff based brewer Mad Dog released It’s All Propaganda (5%), a Black IPA brewed with dark malts but curiously without any roast flavours, it notably featured an unusual hop combination of Kazbek from the Czech Republic, and Sorachi Ace from Japan. This unusual flavour profile confounded reviewers, Alcohol and Aphorisms described it as “the finish especially feels quite roasted stout like, sure, but the first sip is more than malt base mixed with fresh lemongrass and a kind of lemon milkshake creaminess, followed by a nice hop punch. You are always very much aware of the darker set of notes, so your tastebuds feel slightly confused as it tries to reconcile a lemon-creamy notes with bitter chocolate and hoppiness.”[13] As 2016 crept into view, change was afoot as the rush to produce Black IPAs had started to trail off. In March that year, St Peter’s launched their crafted range, a unique selection of craft ales and ciders, showcasing the skills of the brewers. One of these initial releases was Crafted Black IPA (7%), which Steve Groves, head brewer at St. Peters described it as “the Rioja of Black IPAs”, despite being heavily hopped like a traditional IPA, it had a sweeter flavour that cut through the bitterness. The Brewer’s Journal noted it as “the 7% beer offers a hint of “raisins, sultanas, sloes and damsons and has an aroma of dark chocolate with vanilla notes” according to the brewery,” this beer would go onto win a slew of awards over the next two years. On 26th August, Staggeringly Good debuted Dawn Stealer (5.2%), heavily hopped with Amarillo, Cascade and Chinook, it also featured a mixture of Pale and Carafa Special No.3 malts. It was described as having notes of dark berries with rich noted malts. The same month, St Albans based brewery Farr Brew released Black Listed IBA (4.5%), which they initially brewed the historic pub Ye Olde Fighting Cocks based in the same town. It was brewed with three types of malt and along with a combination of British and American hops for a smoky, well-rounded and punchy flavour. This beer proved popular enough for the brewery to reissue it in both bottle and can on a regular basis. The following month, Wily Fox debuted their Black Pearl (4.9%) in cask, made with Carafa Special malt along with a mixture of American and Slovenian hops, it was notably described as a hop symphony of jet black velvety smooth, intense coffee and chocolate flavours; it quickly gained a popular following and was subsequently sold in bottle and keg; subsequently at the SIBA North West Awards 2017 it was awarded Gold (Small Pack Premium Bitters & Pale Ales). Yet by the time of its release, the clamour for Black IPAs had started to wear thin as new styles like NEIPA, Milkshake IPA and Hazy IPA were emerging into view and becoming popular. Jonny Garret puts this into perspective “New England IPA removed the classical IPAs bitterness, and offered the nostalgic, comforting flavors of childhood candy. The new style’s opaque, golden color also meant it was Instagram-ready, just as the app’s popularity was climbing.”[14] The rush of releases had all but subsided to a trickle, fulfilling Garrett Oliver’s prophecy that Black IPAs were just a passing fad. In the ever-changing commercial landscape Black IPAs were drowned out in the rush to produce paler IPAs that eschewed astringency and bitterness, instead focussed on glossy, colourful and sweet flavours, favoured by a new generation of drinkers.

 

The brief popularity of Black IPA coincided with the ‘IPA of all Colours’ movement during the early 2010’s, where a wide range of IPA’s ranging from Red IPA, DIPA, Brut IPA and Triple IPA for instance, became momentarily popular with consumers. As soon as this period of rampant innovation in craft brewing ceased, so did the appeal of Black IPA. Garrett sums up the demise of Black IPA as a buzzword for a failed trend, he adds “Black IPA is also shorthand for experimentation and passion without the influence of commercialization. It’s an embodiment of that old craft cliche: that brewers brew what they like and are just delighted when it sells. To some, the disappearance of the style could be seen as the end of that era of innocence.”[14] Yet, New Trail Brewing argues “despite this, the style has maintained a loyal following and continues to be brewed by those who appreciate the unique interplay of roasted malts and high-hop flavor.”[15] The evidence can be clear to see, over the past decade there have been a number of successful Black IPAs that have come on the scene like Kviek (6.5%) - Artefact Brewing, which gets its name from the use of Kviek yeast in the brewing process, since appearing on the scene in February 2021, it has won multiple of plaudits including two great taste awards, SIBA National 2021 – Gold (Imperial IPA), SIBA National 2022 – Bronze (Imperial IPA), SIBA East 2024 – Bronze (Speciality Keg IPA) and more recently SIBA National 2025- Gold (Speciality IPA) for instance. Likewise, Black Tiger (4.8%) following its debut in March 2023, has become popular with punters, later that same year it received Untappd Community Awards 2023 – Bronze and more recently SIBA Wales & West 2024 – Gold (Specialty IPA category). It was subsequently shortlisted for the final competition at Liverpool BeerX which took place last month. Building on their popularity, these beers have found their way into the respective brewery’s core ranges indeed there are a number of regularly brewed Black IPAs out there, including After Dark (4.8%) – Kelchner’s and Trawler’s Dread (5.4%) – Tenby Harbrwr, even more established family brewers like Hook Norton have jumped onto the bandwagon with the likes of Crafty Fox (4.8%), initially a cask only beer when it first appeared in 2018, it was sold in bottle from 2020 onwards and is now a frequent fixture on their books, described as a beer that looks like a stout, but tastes like an IPA, it features a hefty mixture of five hops and double roasted malt[16], which Simon Martin recently described “that’s a proper Black IPA, with small hints of a hoppy stout.”[17] And the likes of Elusive Brewing regularly pump out Black IPAs including Vortex (5%), Midnight Oregon Trail (5.8%), Stand Up and Be Counted (5.2%) and Alone in the Dark (5.8%) over recent years. Black IPAs have even made their way onto supermarket shelves, in May 2022, Black Sheep launched Cry Wolf (5%) which was retailed across Tesco stores, which the brewery notably described in their promotions as “a fierce bite of roasted malt fused with the gnarly, tropical bitterness of new world hops.”[18] All Hail to the Beer described it at the time as “it’s pithy bitterness with little hints of sweet pineapple, then bang, bitter roasted malt, coffee which is quite intense.”[19] Later that October Painting Shadows (5%) – Loch Lomond,  was sold in cans across the UK at Lidl superstores as part of their month long beer festival, along with several other their products including Odin’s Beard (5%) and Southern Summit (4%) respectively. And last October, Badger debuted Outland Black IPA (5%), retailed as part of the brewery’s Outland range of ‘mainstream craft’ beers produced exclusively in cans, which since launching in 2023, the Beer Guild notes “the Outland brand is now listed with four of the ‘Big 5′ multiple grocers (supermarkets) in a total of 2,200 stores.”[20] They have also gained a number of awards through this range and it has vastly increased their profits.[21] Even as recently as February, the likes of Chiltern released the wryly named Malt-easer (5%) as part of their small batch brew series, combining the punchy aromas and flavours of new world hops (Amarillo and Eureka) with complex dark roasted malts including Carafa Special, oats & roasted barley. These examples prove that Black IPAs isn’t just a preserve for craft breweries, as it finds it way further into the mainstream. Coming full circle in early 2023, Abbeydale belatedly rebranded Black Mass (6.66%) as a Black IPA, despite for years commentators have quoted it tasting like an IPA, despite not being marketed as one. This unexpected pioneer continues to be an ambassador for the Black IPA movement in the UK, recently winning gongs including SIBA Independent Beer Awards 2022 – Gold (Regional Bottle/ Can – Speciality IPA), SIBA North East Beer – Gold (Speciality IPA) in both 2023 and 2024, and more recently Champion Winter Beer of Britain 2025 – Silver (Barley Wines and Strong Ales). Despite fading from prominence a decade ago, brewers continue to brew Black IPA, Jeremy Furzy sums this up “no matter what we call it, it appears the black IPA is here to stay — and I think this should be a celebrated development. It has thrust itself onto the craft beer landscape because it offers the best characteristics of several different ales in one beer.”[22] Since they first appeared on the scene in the early 90’s, Black IPAs have showcased the very best hallmarks of the brewers’ skills and despite all the criticism and tribulations these beers have faced, they have triumphed over adversity, and continue to thrive through the hoppy darkness.




List of References

[1] Kala (6.2%) has won a multitude of awards including International Dark Beer Competition 2017 – Championship Winner, International Brewing Awards – Gold (Dark Beer 5.8%-6.9%) and World Beer Awards 2017 – Silver.

[16] Crafty Fox (4.8%) features an extensive array of ingredients, five hops are from the UK and the US are used (including Willamette, US Cascade, Mosaic, UK Chinook and Amarillo), along three types of malt (including Pale, Double Roasted Crystal and Carafa), an impressive scoresheet for a Black IPA.

[21] The brewery has also sold cans of their Outland beers at various music festivals.


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